Tom the sign is still there, a bit beaten up and it does not work anymore.
My sign was made from a reduced photo of it.
I don't know about the glass block windows. The first photo above is from a 1950's postcard, so they were there then. Older locals have said that these were not originals, but I have no photographic evidence to prove it.
Simon Modelling CB&Q and Wabash See my slowly evolving layout on my picturetrail site http://www.picturetrail.com/simontrains and our videos at http://www.youtube.com/user/MrCrispybake?feature=mhum
That's right! It was a ballroom. I kept thinking it was a theatre...with the neon lights and everything. Sorry about that.
Simon, you mentioned that the ballroom is now an antiques mall. Is the sign therefore a thing of the past? Also, were the windows at each end of the building originally glass block?
Tom
https://tstage9.wixsite.com/nyc-modeling
Time...It marches on...without ever turning around to see if anyone is even keeping in step.
George, it is a scratch model of the Coliseum Ballroom in Benld, Illinois. Right on Route 66
It was famous for the Big Bands in the 30's and 40's with Glen Miller, Jimmy Dorsey and others regularly playing there. It gets more comments on my layout than any other structure as virtually everyone that sees it has fond memories of the place. My Mother-in-law in particular, who has been in leg braces since her late teens due to Polio, used to go dancing there before getting sick. She is now in her mid 70's. It had 2 or 3 huge bars during Prohibition and had a mob link. One of the owners was found in a river with concrete shoes when he turned States evidence.
A colorful history. It still stands and is currently an antique mall.
simon1966 wrote:
Simon
In this photo, I was wondering about the building with the arched roof on the far right, near the end of the backdrop. Is it a kit or scratchbuilt? What is the use; it reminds me of a school gym.
George In Midcoast Maine, 'bout halfway up the Rockland branch
jep1267 wrote:What color do you use to get that silver gray? Also what do you do to keep the wood from warping from the stain.
Just black ink. It is almost impossible to stain without some warping occurring. Use a higher % alcohol, it has less water. Stain all sides of a panel so that the wood is effected the same on both sides. Let it dry thoroughly, warps often flatten out when dry. However the best method IMO is a pile of phone directories! That coupled with clamping to the interior bracing wood, while it is gluing, will take care of any major issues.
Sorry JP. I should not use abbreviations and assume everyone knows what they mean.
Alcohol and Ink. A mixture of isopropyl rubbing alcohol and India ink. I have a couple of concentrations I use. 1 teaspoon of ink to 1 pint, and 2 teaspoons to 1 pint.
I'm not sure that I would say it is a "spot on match" but it is a lot better than the new wood look that would otherwise have.
Some folks make stain from shoe polish, others make a mix of various solvent based paints.
Forgive my ignorance...or is it ignorence (AND my lack of spelling ability ) What is A and I stain? It is a spot on match for the "silver grey" color of aged wood. Very nice tutorial
J.P.
ukguy wrote: I must get around to trying out that bottle of rubber cement I've had for over a year, did you thin it or use it straight from the bottle? The roof weathering also looks great. (suggestion:(if I may)try lifting slightly a few random shingles with the tip of your exacto for a slightly more uneven look, you can always squish them back down flat if you dont like it )
I must get around to trying out that bottle of rubber cement I've had for over a year, did you thin it or use it straight from the bottle? The roof weathering also looks great. (suggestion:(if I may)try lifting slightly a few random shingles with the tip of your exacto for a slightly more uneven look, you can always squish them back down flat if you dont like it )
Thanks Karl!
One of the great things about sharing on forums like this is that there are always great ideas that come from others looking at the work. I appreciate the suggestion.
I use the rubber cement right from the bottle. In my case the bottle is a little old now and the material has become fairly thick. I actually like that as I feel I have more control over where it is going rather than have it flow all over the place.
tstage wrote: VERY nice, Simon! . I like the way the track plan weaves through the scenery. I still like that theatre you scratch-built and wired last year(?).Simon, is the locomotive shed a kit, or did you scratch-build that, too? Thanks for posting the pics. Tom
VERY nice, Simon! . I like the way the track plan weaves through the scenery. I still like that theatre you scratch-built and wired last year(?).
Simon, is the locomotive shed a kit, or did you scratch-build that, too? Thanks for posting the pics.
Thanks Tom, I am rather pleased at how this section turned out. Ironically it was more from necessity than plan! To make the turns around behind the camera, and coming into the shot at the far end (1st shot) wide enough radius it sort of fell into place.
The engine shed is a JL Innovative kit number 281 Wabasha Engine House. It is one of their pre-laser kits dating from 1995 and has been discontinued. It was a fairly challenging build but fun, none-the-less. It is probably still available on the secondary market?
tstage wrote "I like the way the track plan weaves through the scenery."
That really grabs me too.Very appealing views!
Mike
Modelling the UK in 00, and New England - MEC, B&M, D&H and Guilford - in H0
Extremely well done tutorial/step-by-step Simon, your resulting structure is a fine piece of work, the peeled paint looks great, I must get around to trying out that bottle of rubber cement I've had for over a year, did you thin it or use it straight from the bottle? The roof weathering also looks great. (suggestion:(if I may)try lifting slightly a few random shingles with the tip of your exacto for a slightly more uneven look, you can always squish them back down flat if you dont like it )
The view of the layout looks great, a nice little structure enhanced by a great modeller and a little extra effort.
Great to see Shawn taking notes and taking steps to improve an already great little kit, thanks Shawn. Make sure you send him the completed pics for his site,
Karl.A
Maybe a few converts as an added bonus also thanks to your thread.
Tom, you asked for some context pictures for the miners house, well here they are.
It is down the end of the row, just plopped in place right now.
There is a right old mixture of models and methods here. The house closest to the camera is scratch-built styrene walls with cardboard roof. The 2nd structure the red one is a American Model Builders wooden kit. The 3rd house is scratch with simulated fake brick stamped tar siding made from styrene mounted over foam-core board and then last is the Minuteman kit.
Essentially what I have is a mine community on the viewer side of the tracks. The mine complex itself is the other side of the tracks.
MIsterBeasley, perhaps this Grist mill kit will be the start of a new chapter in your hobby? I know that the first real wood kit was for me!
When practicing the peeled paint effect on a flat piece of wood you wont have the advantage that the milled clapboard siding has, the raised bits. The raised bits tend to pick up the glue and also are more subject to the rigors of the tape, so the lower faces of the clapboards tend to peel. You don't get that type of control on a flat surface, it tends to be more random. Stippling the rubber cement would give you more control on a flat surface.
Anyway, good luck with the mill, it looks like a nice kit.
It's not often I say this, but "Thanks for the kick in the behind."
I have a Branchline "Weimer's Mill" kit that I bought close to 3 years ago. I've never felt "worthy" of building this kit yet. The Gods of Coincidence have put your thread in front of me at the same time that I need this structure to progress on the last pink section of my layout, so I've pulled it out, opened it up and...well, I'm still a bit intimidated. But, I've decided to just go ahead and take my time, making sure I do it right every step of the way.
Today, I went over to A.C. Moore and bought some Elmer's rubber cement, which clearly is "the brand the pros use." I also picked up a sheet of balsa, which I've stained with the AI mixture. This piece of wood won't be used for a model, though. It's going to be a "test sheet" to give me a playground to work out this whole weathered wood thing before I start on the real McCoy.
It takes an iron man to play with a toy iron horse.
soumodeler wrote:I have to say that your posts got me wondering if I could build one of these, so one is already in the mail. I have a question though. What kind of ink did you use for the stain?
Good for you soumodeler, make sure you post some pictures of your work.
My stain is made from a pint of 70% isopropyl alcohol and a teaspoon of India ink purchased from Michael's or any other art/craft store. It is not the only stain that can be used, some make stain from shoe polish or even just paint the wood a silvery grey paint. The key is getting that nice weathered wood silver/grey patina that aged and exposed wood develops. Good luck with you efforts.
galaxy wrote: I always thought wood models warped after time. But if painting all the way around helps, and I can get a model cheap enough, maybe I'll try wood!Thanks muchly!
I always thought wood models warped after time. But if painting all the way around helps, and I can get a model cheap enough, maybe I'll try wood!
Thanks muchly!
Go for it Galaxy! I have built dozens of wooden models and while warping can and often is an issue during construction I have not had any problem once completed.
simon1966 wrote:Exactly my point Tom. It was not until I photographed it that I realized that I had missed this area. On both sides! It is one of the reasons I like to photograph models as mistakes seem to jump out of the image at you.
It's funny how you can stare at a model for weeks while your building it and NOT notice the things you missed till you post a pic for the whole world to see!Happens to me all the time too.Turned out nice!
Well, I NEVER!
But maybe I will!
Excellent tutorial, teacher!
-G .
Just my thoughts, ideas, opinions and experiences. Others may vary.
HO and N Scale.
After long and careful thought, they have convinced me. I have come to the conclusion that they are right. The aliens did it.
It is so very simple and inexpensive to add a few small details to a kit like this to make it your own. I really have not deviated at all from the kit instructions, but there is still time to add some bits.
A piece of the sprue that held the door has been trimmed and painted and used as a pipe stack from what would be a simple cooking area in the back of the structure.
Some spare tar-paper offcuts are glued to the roof as if they were covering damaged sections. Small pieces of wood are placed as if nailed to the roof to hold the patches in place.
Using earth tone weathering powders or chalks the roof has been streaked to add some texture and depth. Black powder has been used to indicate staining from smoke.
So we reach the end of this small structure build. I have not kept count of the time I spent, but it amounts to an hour, here-and-there, since Friday evening. A number of enjoyable hours, great value for the hobby dollar.
The entire photo sequence is on my Picture-trail site at http://www.PictureTrail.com/gid19980162
I hope that this has been of interest to some of you. Many, I know, are way beyond my skill level at these things. This was not intended for you, but in some respects is a tribute to you. I have learned so much from this forum over the years that I hope that this thread is in some way repayment for that shared knowledge.
If this stimulates a few folks to try something new then I will be happy.
Thanks for commenting and following along.
Thanks Jim, I am glad it is of interest and value to you. Over the years I have had a lot of help from this list so this is the least I can do to try and give back a little.
Hopefully will be wrapping it up later this evening.
Simon,
Thanks so much for the great tutorial. I have built several simple wood structure kits - they look pretty good from 3 feet away but couldn't stand up to close-up scrutiny like you demonstrate in your photos.
I will, however, endeavor to use your methods on my next kit - I'm bookmarking this thread. Thanks again.
Not being nitpicky. I just happened to notice. Were you wanting to shingle the small portion of roof underneath the eaves, too?
tstage wrote: Simon, I don't know if you did with this kit but I like making my roofs detachable (either wholly or partially) so that I can have access to the inside for lighting/detailing purposes. I usually glue the floor (or make a floor to glue in) so a detachable roof is essential.
Simon, I don't know if you did with this kit but I like making my roofs detachable (either wholly or partially) so that I can have access to the inside for lighting/detailing purposes. I usually glue the floor (or make a floor to glue in) so a detachable roof is essential.
Tom, I agree, I usually do make the roof detachable. In this particular case because of the way the floor is designed I attached the roof and can lift the structure right off the floor/foundation sub assembly.
tstage wrote: Even if you do glue your roof down, wait till the very end to do so. This is also true of the chimney, as well. The reason for doing so is that this comes in handy when you want to trim the edges of your roofing.You can pull off the roof and lay one side onto a board or cutting mat. With the fresh #11 in your X-acto knife blade holder and a straightedge, you can make pretty quick and clean work of the edges. (Obviously, you also want to leave a little overhang, too.) After you've trimmed the edges of the roofing, you can then attach and/or glue the roof(s) in place, as well as the chimney fixture.
Even if you do glue your roof down, wait till the very end to do so. This is also true of the chimney, as well. The reason for doing so is that this comes in handy when you want to trim the edges of your roofing.
You can pull off the roof and lay one side onto a board or cutting mat. With the fresh #11 in your X-acto knife blade holder and a straightedge, you can make pretty quick and clean work of the edges. (Obviously, you also want to leave a little overhang, too.) After you've trimmed the edges of the roofing, you can then attach and/or glue the roof(s) in place, as well as the chimney fixture.
Good point and actually what I did. I did all the trimming with the structure upside down on the cutting mat before adding the chimney.
tstage wrote: Did the tiled roofing come with the kit? Or, is that a separate product?
Did the tiled roofing come with the kit? Or, is that a separate product?
Yes the peel-and-stick shingles and the tar paper came with the kit. There is plenty left over making it an even better value!
tstage wrote: Keep up the good work, Simon. Please do post a shot of it in context on your layout. Will it go near the miner's house that you built recently? Tom
Keep up the good work, Simon. Please do post a shot of it in context on your layout. Will it go near the miner's house that you built recently?
Right now I have a nasty plastic structure sitting in my miners company village. This structure will replace that and will have the summer kitchen/smoke house I built behind it. When all is in place I will finish up with a shot.
Once again, terrific tutorial! A couple of things to add.
Simon, quick question for you. Did the tiled roofing come with the kit? Or, is that a separate product?