Removing paint

[Trax21]

Ok here is my issue. I've got a couple of used locos. Older ones at that that look like they have been to hell and back. I've been working on them and I have the decoders installed and they run pretty good now. (good enough till I can get some better ones anyway) The problem is they have been pretty much destroyed by someone trying to paint them. I would like to know what the best way to remove the paint without destroying the details so I can repaint them.

[dehusman]

I have used denatured alcohol (like the kind they sell in the paint thinner section of a hardware store).  It takes some time and some scrubbing but removes most acyrlic type paints.

Dave H.

[colvinbackshop]

I don't want to ‘trump" the use of denatured alcohol, but denatured means it has an additive that "denatured" it. Sometimes it is denatured with acetone or MEK, both of which will attack plastic.

I use denatured alcohol here at the CCRY, but its use is limited to cleaning (track, my airbrush, metal parts before painting...and so on), but I NEVER use it to remove paint from plastic. Learned that one the hard way!

If you do use the denatured stuff...Check it on the inside of the shell first, just to be sure its going to be plastic safe.

With that "caution" out of the way; I'll say that I do use alcohol for striping paint, but it is 92% or 99% Isopropyl Alcohol that I get at either K-Mart (not always on the shelf there) or the local drug store.

As Dave has mentioned, with using alcohol, it takes some time and elbow grease (I go after it with a tooth brush) but works well.

[Anonymous]

I have been experimenting with this recently.

And have found that alcohol does work well with alot of elbow grease. but for me has also left some of the paint no matter how hard I scrubbed it.

I have also used a fine grit sand paper if i was not worried about the details. This method works very well but like I said you will have no detail afterwards.

The last method that I have been working with, and I personally like. Is using figure nail polish remover. I dilute it with water and work in a small area at a time. Using a Q-tip I rub on the paint and then quickly wipe off the area with a paper towel. I have not witnessed any pitting or softness of the plastic as of yet. But this is just the way that I choose to remove paint, I would try it out on something not so important before trying it on something that is important. I would also suggest doing this method in a well ventilated area because of the odor. (Also, the way I figure it, when girls use those fake plastic nails and then take the polish off using this stuff, it shouldn't be all that bad on plastic)

Hope this helps, remember it's really all trail and error, so don't get frustrated if something doesn't work for you, there is always something out there that will.

Let us know what you come up with..........

[AntonioFP45]

I normally use 91% alcohol, however, for tougher cases like yours the "Super Clean" (formerly called "Castrol Super Clean") products sold at Auto Parts stores work well on most plastic models without damaging their surfaces.

A friend of mine recently stripped an old Tyco switcher's shell with Super Clean after a failed attempt with alcohol.  He reported excellent results and is repainting the shell to the modern "Pan Am" scheme.

 

  

[Trax21]

thanks to all for your tips and advice at least now I know some of the do's and dont's

[jeffrey-wimberly]

I recently used 91% alcohol to strip an old Tyco F unit shell that I'm mounting on an Athearn chassis. It worked quite well but as previously stated requires some elbow grease. DO NOT attempt to use brake fluid for stripping paint on models. Some have said it worked for them but all it's ever done for me is melt the plastic shell and do a good job stopping my car.

[AntonioFP45]

I use ez-off oven cleaner.  Spray on, wait 2 hours, scrub off.

David B

David,

What type/brand shells did you use the EZ Off on?  Have you tried it on P2K and Atlas shells?

[AntonioFP45]

Thanks David,

I"m always looking to try different products.  I have a couple of locomotive shells from P2K and Atlas that I want to strip.  I'm considering trying Alcohol, Super Clean, and now EZ-Off on the shells and make comparisons.

[V&AL]

I use auto zone brake fluid on my stuff, I've strepped abotu 20 shells so far, with no ill effects.  A clean set for every shell works best. 1 bottle is about $3. I have heard that the more fancy brake fluids, while better for your vehicle, are bad for your models. 

 

but as always, use caution, and if yo uaint sure, try a "junk" model first

[jaytrix]

I have used Castrol Super Clean and have had great results.  The biggest thing is properly cleaning the shell after the cleaning and I would say this with any of the methods that have been described.  There is nothing more frustrating than removing the paint and repainting only to have pockets that the paint adheres badly.  So cleaning and letting it dry completely are something that I would add to the process.

[cwclark]

  As mentioned above i use 90% alcohol by soaking the shell in a submerged bath of the alcohol in a tupperware bowl for an hour or so.

      Another good product is from poly S called ELO (Easy Lift Off) paint and decal remover found in most good LHSes and can be purchased over the internet.   ELO is easy to use but may require a couple of coats to remove any stubborn areas of paint. I swap it on with a cotton swab and let it sit until the paint starts to crinkle. I then take an old tooth brush or stiff nylon brush and scrub the old paint off.

    Once the paint is removed I will wash the shell in warm soapy water and let it air dry before painting.

   Try to stay away from commercial paint strippers and petroleum based products. The oils in the petroleum products dry out the plastic of your model and after a few years, the shell will become brittle and start to crack and eventually break away from the shell. The commercial paint strippers will totally destroy the shell making it too soft and will cause distortion of the plastic....chuck

[Cox 47]

Maybe I'm lucky but I have used Brake Fluid for at least 20 years and had no problems...Cox 47

[Dave Farquhar]

I'll second Super Clean. Purple Power is another brand of similar cleaner. Either is safer than brake fluid and probably cheaper. Plus it's biodegradable, so disposal isn't a problem at all. Just pour it down the drain.

Any paint applied by a hobbyist is likely to come off cleanly within 24 hours. Often an overnight soak is all it takes, remove the item, give it a couple of passes with a toothbrush, rinse, and it's good to go. One time when I stripped the factory finish on a diecast car it took 72 hours.

Brake fluid is the old standby, but I have seen shells damaged by it. It's rare, but if it happens to you, then it's not much consolation. People who collect and restore plastic model kits tend to favor Super Clean/Purple Power because of its likelihood to NOT damage the plastic at all.

[gmcrail]

Maybe I'm lucky but I have used Brake Fluid for at least 20 years and had no problems...Cox 47

The trick with brake fluid is to use the old DOT-3 fluid, not the newer stuff - which will attack plastic. Also, I have heard repeatedly that DOT-3 WILL damage Kato shells.  I've used the DOT-3 brake fluid for years, also, with no problems, but then I have no Kato locomotives....  

 

[modelmaker51]

Kato and the old Atlas/Kato shells are made of ABS plastic not styrene. ABS is not compatible with brake fluid, it will usually put cracks in the shell. The cracks can usually be fixed (invisible) with an application of ProWeld or Tenax and some light sanding.