Starting Over...N scale here I come!

[Cannoli]

My move is complete, the unpacking is underway, and my mind is focusing almost 100% on what the plans for the new layout is going to be. I have an alcove in my finished basement set aside, wall space measuring 10x9x8, that will be used to hold the new layout. To better take advante of the space available, I'm making the jump from HO to N as I said I possibly would in a previous post.

Here are my givens:

1. I will stick with a fictional back woods B&M New Hampshire branchline as I was modeling in HO
2. I'll back date to the early 50's from my previous late 70's, using first gen diesels. The maroon/gold B&M scheme of that era is much better looking than the 70's blue. This of course makes the Atlas N GP38-2's that I bought at the end of the 90's pretty much useless but oh well.
3. The layout will be built "domino style" using the 2'x4' dominoes that I had started building my HO layout on, just need to remove the bit of HO track that is there first.
4. The layout will be single track with reverse loops at each end and the possibility of staging in the neighboring laundry room. I'm still negotiating the contract to put a tunnel bore through the wall.
5. Use of my current MRC Prodigy Express for control.
   

The druthers:

1. I'd like a working interchange with some other railroad, possibly the CV or MEC.
2. Broad enough curves to run passenger equipment, primarily RDC's. With N scale this shouldn't be much of an issue, I'm looking at 18" radius for the moment, coming from what was 24" in HO.
3. I figure code 55 flex track, most likely Atlas.

Now I just need to settle on a track plan that will fit the area I have available, and pick up some equipment that is either DCC ready or easily converted.

It has been a long time since I've considered N scale. Are 18" radius curves considered broad? I am considering the Kato RDC's, how do they run? As far as I've seen, code 55 is the N equivilent to code 83 in HO, is this truely the case?

Thanks everyone.

Jason 

 

[trainfan1221]

Cannoli,

  If you can try to have 22" radius at least on the main line.  A lot of stuff will fit on 18 but it won't always look good and you have less chance of derailments.

[Cannoli]

Cannoli,

  If you can try to have 22" radius at least on the main line.  A lot of stuff will fit on 18 but it won't always look good and you have less chance of derailments.

Hi Trainfan, just to confirm, you're referring to 22" curves in N scale correct? I know that in HO 18" is trouble, but in N 18" sounds like it would be a fairly broad curve.

 

[wm3798]

Cannoli,

Yes, 18" is plenty in N scale.  Of course, as in any scale, broader is always better, but if RDC's are the longest equipment you expect to run, 18" will be fine.

Sounds like a neat concept for a layout.  You just have to get a couple of reversing circuits for your loops, and you're off to the races!  I've often thought about doing a simple branchline layout... I'm looking forward to seeing how yours works out.

If you need any tips on working with the Atlas 55, let me know.  I've had mine down for about 4 years... Absolutely love it, but there are those little tricks that make things go better... I've also put in a lot of decoders in a variety of N scale equipment, so I'll be glad to offer whatever advice I can.

Post some pictures of your progress... looking forward to seeing it.

Lee 

 

[dinwitty]

interesting about N scale, manufacturers of HO like Athearn at least in earlier days did some "scrunching" of models to fit better on 18" radius, shorter passenger cars IE a few windows missing, the Athearn RDC is shorter than the prototype, there were articles to lengthen it out.

But for N scale it seems theres no gimmicks. I own an Athearn DD40 and I bought an N scale DD40x Bachmann, it is over half the size of the Athearn HO, making it longer if it were in HO.

N-HO isnt exactly twice/half size but thats close enough to tell me the DD40x was not compromised, its scale length.  It will NOT run on my test N scale layout, which has 9 inch curves. haha. 12 inch curves it should like better, thats 24" for HO.

For My HO layout I have a range of minimum radius's for certain situations. 

Main-24", industrial-18"-15", the South Shore portion is 26" because of my Lil Joe electric.

Wider anytime I can do it.

Thats 12', 9", 7.5 for N scale. Your needs may vary but thats the concept.

 

[R. T. POTEET]

Eighteen inches equates to a 33" HO-Scale radius; I know HO-Scalers who would kill for 33" minimum radius curves. They don't call it HORRIBLY OVERSIZED for nothing.

[nof]

Hello!

I recently got my Kato GS-4 and Morning Daylight passenger cars and I run them on curves with radius ranging from 15.75" to 19.5" and it looks and works Ok. It would probably look better on bigger radius, but this is my givens. 

[pcarrell]

18"r should be just fine for an RDC.  Matter of fact, 18"r should operate most anything you want in N scale.  Bigger is always better, but that should be workable for all but the longest stuff.  The biggest thing with the Atlas code 55 track is making sure that all your loco's and rolling stock are RP-25 compliant, meaning low profile flanges.  Atlas code 55 doesn't like pizza cutter flanges at all.  Fortunately, most items on the shelf today meet this requirement.  If they don't, it's usually not a big deal to swap out wheelsets to fix it.

[Dave Vollmer]

On the subject of wheelsets...

You will probably want to replace your wheelsets with metal wheels eventually.  But in the short term, I suggest that if you want to save some bucks, the Atlas low-profile Delrin wheelsets work great, even with MicroTrains trucks.

[Packers#1]

Welcome to n scale. Sounds like a cool concept. One word of advice: For first generation diesels (or any diesel, for that matter) Atlas is where you should look first. You might have to custom-paint, though.

[Cannoli]

Thanks everyone for the advice, I'll certainly post pics as things progress, I'm about 1/2 way through the first version of my trackplan now. As for locos, I've seen some maroon B&M Walthers RS-2's on Ebay, along with a maroon B&M FT A/B set, but I'm not sure who makes it. I've had good luck with the Proto stuff in HO, how is the N in comparison and does anyone know who makes the B&M N scale FT's? Are they worth looking at?

Thanks,

Jason 

[wm3798]

Life Like/Proto has evolved into a real player in N scale.  Be wary of older Life Like stuff...  The RS-2 is the latest stuff, and is supposed to be very well done.

The FT would either be by Micro Trains or Intermountain.  Both companies have released these, although I'm not sure which one did the B&M.  They're both supposed to be very good.  I have a pair of Intermountain F-7's, and they're top drawer.  All of the above mentioned locomotives have drop in decoders available for them from Digitrax, and probably others.

Lee 

[NS2591]

Congrats. I switched to N scale almost two years ago. I've been very happy with the switch. Someday I will model CNW in HO(Thats what I really want) but for now I'll settle for modeling BNSF in N scale. Don't overlook Kato F3s. I had one, it didn't fit in then(now I wish I still had it) but it would out pull any of my Atlas units. My Atlas units are lightweights in comparison with my Kato units. I would stay away from the Athearn units for now. I've got a couple. My F59 isn't bad but will have to be hard wired for DCC, and my SD70M pulls even worse than my Atlas GP7. Its also supposed to be able to have a drop in Decoder using the Kato style boards. But when I pulled the shell off it didn't have the same board. Micro-Trains cars are expensive but they are IMO the Cream of the crop. I like my Red Caboose and Intermountain cars alot too. but the Micro-Trains are my favorites

[Anonymous]

Aaaah! The dark side! 

[trainfan1221]

Sorry I always get this confused..I meant have at least 11" on the main line as opposed to 9 3/4".  That's what train sets usually come with.  Things will look and run better, but I'm guessing with 18' you will have no problem.  Sorry for the confusion canoli.  

[navygunner]

Is this the FT set you considering?  This is from the Intermountain website. 

http://www.imrcmodels.com/n/images/69011w.jpg

 

I have several sets of these FT's and they are very hefty models.  They are nicely detailed, quiet and pull better than almost any thing out there.

Bob

[john1947]

Cannoli

 I have 3 Kato RDC units and have had no problem with them what so ever. I have run them steady up to 6 hours at a time and they run fine.

John 

 

[David Woodard]

bump

[Cannoli]

Is this the FT set you considering?  This is from the Intermountain website. 

http://www.imrcmodels.com/n/images/69011w.jpg

 

I have several sets of these FT's and they are very hefty models.  They are nicely detailed, quiet and pull better than almost any thing out there.

Bob

Yes, that's exactly what I purchased, haven't had a chance to run them yet, but they are in good shape visually. 

[fluff]

i have a santa fe ft set from microtrains. they run great and have a bright headlight. the spacing between the engines is too far, about 5 scale feet. the b unit is loud in reverse. i still like them, great detail, just nice looking engines...made in the usa!!! my kato f7s, the older, heavier ones, that came with rapido couplers, with out pull the microtrains, dimmer headlight, and closer coupling, (had them fitted with microtrains couplers). i believe the micro fts have better detail, but they are also newer. bought a newer kato f3 and its very nice and runs great, but they are lighter than the older f7s. have 2 atlas mkt gp40s are they run great. i have not compared their pulling power. i also have an atlas sd 60 demo. runs perfect, but not the strongest puller. i found it amazing that a lifelike gp 20 would outpull the sd 60 but it will. the stump pullers are lifelike fa's. they are heavy and will get it done. they run smooth, but not as pretty as the others. i ran 61 cars with 4 fa's, but im sure 3 would pull the same train. my thoughts only!!!