My comments were NOT unsolicited criticism. As I said in the earlier post, if you had bothered to read it, I would not have offered any advice except for the basic simple fact that you've ignored and that Jeff seems to forget he made the statement "What would you do?" He asked a question in WPF, I provided an answer to his question. One that proved to be correct and that improved the mess he had made of the UP car.
Perhaps you should add another restriction to WPF - No one should be allowed to ask questions, because somebody will provide an answer and response. So put that into place also and watch the WPF thread decline to where all it is people posting pics so everyone can tell them how great they are and people posting blurry, shakey pics where no one will offer the person advice on how to improve their photos. I gave up on the WPF thread being anything more a mutual hug session long ago and haven't posted pics to it since then because there is no true purpose to the thread other than patting people on the back.
Tomkat offered comments also - is that wrong too? What about the people who told I-5 to use a tripod - where they wrong to make those comments in WPF? Jeff asked for comments - he got them. Next time tell Jeffrey not to ask for help
That you do understand unsolicited criticism is just that, and not necessarily welcome on WPF...I mean, you have stated that as if it's something the other gentleman should understand. So, it must be something that you understand, and I would like to hold you to that.
Otherwise, what was the point of your own thread where you were inviting people to come and receive criticism? Didn't we get it all sorted out last time, and wasn't that the understanding until yesterday? I certainly thought so.
-Crandell
selector wrote:Can I quote you on that? Next time?
WHO do you want to quote - Jeff about not posting help and advice, or me telling people that their helpful advice is not wanted on WPF??????????
jeffrey-wimberly wrote: EDIT: I didn't know earlier that 'bootlegger' was none other than Al Mayo. That really irks me. His use of the adjective "stupid" is now clear to me. I appreciate jktrains' advice on how to correct the over-weathering on my UP reefer but I had thought that it was not meant to be offered in WPF, but in the symposium thread hosted by him for that purpose or by a PM message. Oh well, what's done is done.
EDIT: I didn't know earlier that 'bootlegger' was none other than Al Mayo. That really irks me. His use of the adjective "stupid" is now clear to me. I appreciate jktrains' advice on how to correct the over-weathering on my UP reefer but I had thought that it was not meant to be offered in WPF, but in the symposium thread hosted by him for that purpose or by a PM message. Oh well, what's done is done.
Come on Tomkat-13, didn't you read Jeff's earlier post edit. He doesn't want ANYONE to offer help during the WPF thread. Your post is offering help and that shouldn't be allowed in WPF. WPF is only for people to post pics and receive pats on the back telling them how great it looks regardless of the actual results. So save all those helpful tips and hints for yourself and don't share them here because they're not wanted and, apparently, against the philisophy and spirit of WPF.
Dr. Frankendiesel aka Scott Running BearSpace Mouse for president!15 year veteran fire fighterCollector of Apple //e'sRunning Bear EnterprisesHistory Channel Club life member.beatus homo qui invenit sapientiam
jeffrey-wimberly wrote:Thanks, I'll give that a try.
Hey Jeff.....Here is some help!
http://www.rr-fallenflags.org/up/up165101akg.jpg
http://www.rr-fallenflags.org/up/up166690akg.jpg
Just look at some of the cars on fallen flags.......I think your not too far off.
Take your time.....It's not a race.....When I brush on my ink wash I sort of dry brush....or you can use an old pump type mist spray.....try using less ink in your mix & let each spray dry before you try more.
jeffrey-wimberly wrote: Bootlegger wrote:Whoa not good. Looks like you just dipped the boxcar in a bucket of dirty water and then put it down to dry. There is no point to that weathering job. I would not have posted that picture with pride. Sorry but it is true.I would have liked for it to be more uniform but it didn't work out that way. I used a mix of alcohol and black leather dye but as the alcohol dried it pulled the dye to the sides. What would you do?
Bootlegger wrote:Whoa not good. Looks like you just dipped the boxcar in a bucket of dirty water and then put it down to dry. There is no point to that weathering job. I would not have posted that picture with pride. Sorry but it is true.
Whoa not good. Looks like you just dipped the boxcar in a bucket of dirty water and then put it down to dry. There is no point to that weathering job. I would not have posted that picture with pride. Sorry but it is true.
JW - have you received confirmation from one of the Moderators that Bootlegger was Al Mayo? What about the other post that agreed with him? Was that Al Mayo too? If so then why did he post a second time saying that the car look better after removing some of the black? Also, nowhere did Bootlegger use the word "stupid". You're reply, quoted above, included the response "what would you do?" Without this I would not have said anything nor tried to provide a possible solution, since the general opinion is that WPF should be "attaboy" pat on the back sessions.
Our cousins live about half a mile to a mile away, via a dirt road. That train actually is the Whippany Railroad museum's train, I rode on it once and it was pulled by an M&E Alco and a Maine Eastern F40 as well. I think those are partners, notice they have the same reporting marks and logo.
I also liked the pacing shot, and the jazz music was part of the "sample music" folder on my laptop, I added it because most of the clips are mute. (would you prefer music or young children screaming?)
There should've been another pacing shot of a Metro-North train headed towards New Haven, but I can't find it...
- Luke
Modeling the Southern Pacific in the 1960's-1980's
TrainManTy wrote: No model photos this week yet, but I did make another video, this time scraped together from clips I took when visiting relatives in New Jersey. Enjoy!http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=B_BlnvsCRp4
No model photos this week yet, but I did make another video, this time scraped together from clips I took when visiting relatives in New Jersey. Enjoy!
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=B_BlnvsCRp4
That pacing shot of the MU train was great! The music matched it perfectly. Jazz and trains just seem to go together.
"And the sons of Pullman porters and the sons of engineers ride their father's magic carpet made of steel..."
TrainManTy wrote:No model photos this week yet, but I did make another video, this time scraped together from clips I took when visiting relatives in New Jersey. Enjoy!http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=B_BlnvsCRp4
Nice video! I like the NJT stuff of couse. IS that your cousins back yard next to the tracks where the M & E train is? Also is that the line where the Whipanny Railway museum runs normally? If so I have seen that location from the train.
Here's some pics of some trains on a test track made from some old LL power-lok track.
This is the veiw from the causeway over the marsh looking toward the billet mill.
You may remember when I weathered a bottle car a few months ago. Although I dulcoted the car to seal it, the sophisticated finishes paint has continued to rust albeit slowly. I think it makes the car look even better.
Finally here's an overall shot of the layout so far. There's not really much to look at due to lack of cash. I added up how much track will cost for this layout and just for this 2x8 the cost came out to over $300! I always thought that locomotives would be the most expensive part of the hobby but turnouts really add up fast.
The pic is a bit wobbly since I balanced the camera on top of the unfinished backdrop. I still have to add coved corners and paint it before it will be done.
Chad
Here's a meet of 5 Southern Pacific SD7's, just snapped on my layout about 30 minutes ago.
Brian
jktrains wrote:Even after re-reading Bootlegger's remarks I do not find them mean spirited or condescending. I find them honest and truthful, which is what we should be. Neither was the other comment that has since been deleted. It was honest and truthful without being mean spirited. Neither post involved a personal attack on JW and in my opinion neither should have been deleted.
Even after re-reading Bootlegger's remarks I do not find them mean spirited or condescending. I find them honest and truthful, which is what we should be. Neither was the other comment that has since been deleted. It was honest and truthful without being mean spirited. Neither post involved a personal attack on JW and in my opinion neither should have been deleted.
EDIT: I didn't know earlier that 'bootlegger' was none other than a certain troll we all know. That really irks me. His use of the adjective "stupid" is now clear to me. I appreciate jktrains' advice on how to correct the over-weathering on my UP reefer but I had thought that it was not meant to be offered in WPF, but in the symposium thread hosted by him for that purpose or by a PM message. Oh well, what's done is done.
Even after re-reading Bootlegger's remarks I do not find them mean spirited or condescending. I find them honest and truthful, which is what we should be. Neither was the other comment that has since been deleted. It was honest and truthful without being mean spirited. Neither post involved a personal attack on JW and in my opinion neither should have been deleted. Doing so borders on censorship not of what was said, but purely because someone read something more into it than what was said.
As many on the forum know, I'm not the biggest fan of many of the things JW does or posts. I try not to let that get in the way of offering help when he is open to receiving it. Many also know my opinions about WPF and what should and should not be said on it. That being said, honest opinions should be done in the proper manner and not be squelched. Unfortunately, part of the process of providing advice to someone about how to improve what they have done must involve pointing out the shortcomings that need improvement. One can not be done without the other. We shouldn't let our collective concerns about bruising someone's ego get in the way of helping them improve their skills.
JW - I see that the wipe down with alcohol worked. Practice and experiment a little more. I think some where in between but more on the "after" side is what to shoot for.
As with any process or technique, YOU want to be able to control the results or the outcome and not let chance be the sole deciding factor. IMO, for a weathering, or scenery for that matter, technique to good and useable, the end results must be repeatable and under the control of the modeler. If you can't control it, find a different technique - experiment a little until you can get results that you can produce again and again. JW's method of weathering left far too much to chance, with the end result uncontrolable and unfortunately the results showed.
jeffrey-wimberly wrote: jktrains wrote: JW - this is not your first try at using the alcohol/black leather dye for weathering and getting subpar results. They all end up looking like they've been dunked and what's leftover after the alcohol has dried is too dark and looks thick. What would you do you asked? First thing would be to stop using that method. As your reply and the photos indicate it is not a technique that you can control the end result. The final results are more dependent on chance than on technique and controlability. You have an airbrush(es) and a compressor - use them. You'll have more control over the weathering process. Chalks and powders are another method. As for trying to correct what you've already done, you choices are strip and repaint, leave as they even though they are not that good, or try wiping down between each rib on the boxcar with a rag wetted with the alcohol. This might remove what's dried in the panel between the ribs and leave some around each rib where dirt and grime would tend to accumulate. The dirt and grime accumulate less on the panels because they are smooth and the rain water does a better job of washing them down. Try it, it couldn't make them worse.Thanks, I'll give that a try.EDIT: I followed your advice and the car looks much better now as can be seen in this before and after.Before:After:Thanks again.
jktrains wrote: JW - this is not your first try at using the alcohol/black leather dye for weathering and getting subpar results. They all end up looking like they've been dunked and what's leftover after the alcohol has dried is too dark and looks thick. What would you do you asked? First thing would be to stop using that method. As your reply and the photos indicate it is not a technique that you can control the end result. The final results are more dependent on chance than on technique and controlability. You have an airbrush(es) and a compressor - use them. You'll have more control over the weathering process. Chalks and powders are another method. As for trying to correct what you've already done, you choices are strip and repaint, leave as they even though they are not that good, or try wiping down between each rib on the boxcar with a rag wetted with the alcohol. This might remove what's dried in the panel between the ribs and leave some around each rib where dirt and grime would tend to accumulate. The dirt and grime accumulate less on the panels because they are smooth and the rain water does a better job of washing them down. Try it, it couldn't make them worse.
JW - this is not your first try at using the alcohol/black leather dye for weathering and getting subpar results. They all end up looking like they've been dunked and what's leftover after the alcohol has dried is too dark and looks thick. What would you do you asked? First thing would be to stop using that method. As your reply and the photos indicate it is not a technique that you can control the end result. The final results are more dependent on chance than on technique and controlability. You have an airbrush(es) and a compressor - use them. You'll have more control over the weathering process. Chalks and powders are another method. As for trying to correct what you've already done, you choices are strip and repaint, leave as they even though they are not that good, or try wiping down between each rib on the boxcar with a rag wetted with the alcohol. This might remove what's dried in the panel between the ribs and leave some around each rib where dirt and grime would tend to accumulate. The dirt and grime accumulate less on the panels because they are smooth and the rain water does a better job of washing them down. Try it, it couldn't make them worse.
EDIT: I followed your advice and the car looks much better now as can be seen in this before and after.
Before:
After:
Thanks again.
The above exchange is an example of how commentary on photos can be constructive rather than demeaning. The tone of the first comment on Jeff's work was condescending and mean spirited. The follow up comments by jktrains offered some sound advice and the results speak for themselves. As a rule, I don't offer advice unless it is asked for, but when advice is given, it should be in an effort help a fellow modeler improve his technique. Comments which ridicule someone's best effort have no place here.
Some one asked about modeling water and how to paint the stream bed. Here is how I did it.
I used a mix of black and dark green for the center. Then I feathered browns and tans from the stream banks down into the black/green in the center. I still have to apply the gloss medium
Next, is a picture of the Annebelle II, my car ferry. It is still a wip, but I've got the rails on the deck (finally!) and couldn't resist posing her for a couple of pics.
And here, from the other end. (Yea, the transfer bridge still needs work!)
Happy Easter all!
-George
N Scale Diesels......I like 'em
jktrains wrote:JW - this is not your first try at using the alcohol/black leather dye for weathering and getting subpar results. They all end up looking like they've been dunked and what's leftover after the alcohol has dried is too dark and looks thick. What would you do you asked? First thing would be to stop using that method. As your reply and the photos indicate it is not a technique that you can control the end result. The final results are more dependent on chance than on technique and controlability. You have an airbrush(es) and a compressor - use them. You'll have more control over the weathering process. Chalks and powders are another method. As for trying to correct what you've already done, you choices are strip and repaint, leave as they even though they are not that good, or try wiping down between each rib on the boxcar with a rag wetted with the alcohol. This might remove what's dried in the panel between the ribs and leave some around each rib where dirt and grime would tend to accumulate. The dirt and grime accumulate less on the panels because they are smooth and the rain water does a better job of washing them down. Try it, it couldn't make them worse.
modelmaker51 wrote:Been workin' on a D&H RS-3m for the last couple of months and it's finally ready for paint: Nose, #board/headlight housing, DB box are my own resin castings.
Alex
Jay
C-415 Build: https://imageshack.com/a/tShC/1
Other builds: https://imageshack.com/my/albums
Very impressive, Don. Way to go...it looks awesome.
I'm happy to report I have made some progress on my layout this week. I spent 4 hours on Thursday mixing plaster and applying wet castings to finish up one part of my layout. Here's the raw plastered area I was working on:
Tonight I spent some time coloring the rock.....this photo is after the initial application of color. There's much more work to do:
I'm very happy with the way this is turning out since it's my first layout and everything beyond the benchwork has been a learning process.
Don Z.
Research; it's not just for geeks.
Great photos so far everybody!
Happy Easter
GARRY
HEARTLAND DIVISION, CB&Q RR
EVERYWHERE LOST; WE HUSTLE OUR CABOOSE FOR YOU
My nine year old getting his first train set
Building his platform
The green "carpet" is down, we are ready for track work...
More to come next week, hopefully. Remember he is 9 and this is his first set....