David Woodard wrote: Dave Vollmer wrote: NH I-5, better! Still a bit of glare, though. But I can see it's a PRR K4. That's the official locomotive of the Commonwealth of Pennsylvania. No foolin'!Here's a suggestion. Set the camera still on a table (or better yet, get a tripod!) and turn off the flash. Get yourself a nice flourescent desk lamp you can hold near the model but out of the photo. Then, take the picture using the timer. That way it won't wiggle when you press the button. If you have a tripod, the timer function isn't necessary.That's how I take my photos anyway; Here's my brass K4 in N scale:I'll critique the weathering in the weathering thread. Be advised that I have not weathered my brass K4; I'm not offering that as an example of weathering, but rather to show how the tripod with desk lamp thing works. I also have two 48" flourescent tubes directly over my small layout. THESE ARE TOY TRAINS!!! When you buy them they are for ages 8 and up. Please dont forget that, this is for fun, for entertainment. WHO GIVES A CRAP IF THE LIGHT GLARES or someone isnt an award winning photographer? Everyone has to learn to weather some time or another, and when I do - I hope I don't get blasted on here for it. Lighten up, folks. These are toys, and we are adults playing with them.
Dave Vollmer wrote: NH I-5, better! Still a bit of glare, though. But I can see it's a PRR K4. That's the official locomotive of the Commonwealth of Pennsylvania. No foolin'!Here's a suggestion. Set the camera still on a table (or better yet, get a tripod!) and turn off the flash. Get yourself a nice flourescent desk lamp you can hold near the model but out of the photo. Then, take the picture using the timer. That way it won't wiggle when you press the button. If you have a tripod, the timer function isn't necessary.That's how I take my photos anyway; Here's my brass K4 in N scale:I'll critique the weathering in the weathering thread. Be advised that I have not weathered my brass K4; I'm not offering that as an example of weathering, but rather to show how the tripod with desk lamp thing works. I also have two 48" flourescent tubes directly over my small layout.
NH I-5, better! Still a bit of glare, though. But I can see it's a PRR K4. That's the official locomotive of the Commonwealth of Pennsylvania. No foolin'!
Here's a suggestion. Set the camera still on a table (or better yet, get a tripod!) and turn off the flash. Get yourself a nice flourescent desk lamp you can hold near the model but out of the photo. Then, take the picture using the timer. That way it won't wiggle when you press the button. If you have a tripod, the timer function isn't necessary.
That's how I take my photos anyway; Here's my brass K4 in N scale:
I'll critique the weathering in the weathering thread. Be advised that I have not weathered my brass K4; I'm not offering that as an example of weathering, but rather to show how the tripod with desk lamp thing works. I also have two 48" flourescent tubes directly over my small layout.
THESE ARE TOY TRAINS!!! When you buy them they are for ages 8 and up. Please dont forget that, this is for fun, for entertainment. WHO GIVES A CRAP IF THE LIGHT GLARES or someone isnt an award winning photographer? Everyone has to learn to weather some time or another, and when I do - I hope I don't get blasted on here for it.
Lighten up, folks. These are toys, and we are adults playing with them.
Dr. Frankendiesel aka Scott Running BearSpace Mouse for president!15 year veteran fire fighterCollector of Apple //e'sRunning Bear EnterprisesHistory Channel Club life member.beatus homo qui invenit sapientiam
cwclark wrote:Speak for yourself. I operate a well planned out prototype railroad complete with all the elements of real life situations on a small scale. I don't play with trains! How many 8 year olds do you know that can take waybills, insert them into each individual car card that's complete with the product, AAR # and car #, destination, and return info., make a train, take it to it's destination, and spot the cars in an industry while following the prototype rules set forth by the railroad in question on a fast time clock, or build a scale prototype building from prototype blueprints? None that i can think of. Some of us take this hobby very seriously and don't appreciate it when we're put on the level of a snot nosed 8 year old. To just say: "lighten up" is not a good thing. A lot of us strive for excellence in this hobby and shoddy and/or mediocore work is not acceptible. I have always tried to live up to the words in the Boy Scout Oath. You know, the part where it says: On my honor; I will do my best.... and doing "one's best" in this hobby is also included. A bit of constructive critisism can only help a person learn to strive for much better, quality outcomes from their work .... chuck
Speak for yourself. I operate a well planned out prototype railroad complete with all the elements of real life situations on a small scale. I don't play with trains! How many 8 year olds do you know that can take waybills, insert them into each individual car card that's complete with the product, AAR # and car #, destination, and return info., make a train, take it to it's destination, and spot the cars in an industry while following the prototype rules set forth by the railroad in question on a fast time clock, or build a scale prototype building from prototype blueprints? None that i can think of. Some of us take this hobby very seriously and don't appreciate it when we're put on the level of a snot nosed 8 year old.
To just say: "lighten up" is not a good thing. A lot of us strive for excellence in this hobby and shoddy and/or mediocore work is not acceptible. I have always tried to live up to the words in the Boy Scout Oath. You know, the part where it says: On my honor; I will do my best.... and doing "one's best" in this hobby is also included. A bit of constructive critisism can only help a person learn to strive for much better, quality outcomes from their work .... chuck
EXACTLY!!! What about an almost 14 year old doing that? (Insert photo of me here)
Realistic operation all the way!
You won't get anyone here to agree with you. You're statement is ludicrous.
Yea, I can see if you have an $80 cheapie trainset you bought from Toys R Us and thats ALL you're gonna play with, but most of us have invested thousands into our rolling stock and layouts and try to duplicate real time operations.
This aint no "kiddie ride". So if you're not tall enough to handle constructive critizism then please get off the ride.
"I hope I don't get blasted on here for it."
Hey David, welcome to the forum. I agree with you to a point, some here are self appointed critics who feel the need to , well critique. Are they uptight? maybe, are they trying to assist someone to be a better modeler? we can assume they are, albiet the methods that they go about it are questionable. I think some posters do it on purpose just to get a rise, I snicker and move on to the next thread, it isn't worth my time to read thread after thread of blah, blah, blah.
Now as far as "toys for 8 years old and up". Please go purchase a nice loco and drop , oh say $800.00 on it. I bet you won't let an 8 year old play with it. I know what your going to say, that you would never, and why would you, this $30.00 trainset loco works just fine right?.
To say that some of these are toys is kinda like saying a 30.06 is a daisy bb gun. Not exactly.
"The true sign of intelligence is not knowledge but imagination."-Albert Einstein
http://gearedsteam.blogspot.com/
Ryan,
Here's the thread I was joking about.
http://www.trains.com/trccs/forums/1338590/ShowPost.aspx
My preference is artisits oil paints for weathering, among other techniques. I like to describe weathering with oils as a process of applying paint and removing/blending it using a wash of mineral spirits until you get the effect you want. You could probably try using AIM powders to highlight the rivits lines. Even a light airbrushing through a slot or mask cut in an index card would probably work. Usually dirt, etc accumulates in places like corners, crevices, and around protrusions like rivits.
Isee, you used the SF to create the rust. That explains why it looks a little thick in places. It can be thinned a little with distilled water. You can also go back over the SF with additional treatments to darken the rust. Also consider apply paints over the rust surface to color it some more and to create rust streaking.
I'll post some pics later that illustrate what I mean.
FoulRift wrote:What kind of paint did you use?
Bob thanks for the comments, no paint was used at all, however, Sophisticated Finishes creates the rusting effect.I appreciate the tips on washes, I did apply one light wash of India ink and alcohol, but will try the thinned acrylics too.
jktrains wrote: Instead of a weathered model, it simply looks like an old metal boxcar that rusted from sitting in a damp basement or something. You didn't put it in a fish tank for a few days, did you?The concentrate of the rivet lines, these should standout because of the dirt that would have accumlated around the rivets as water ran down the sides. There a few different methods to do this, but that add some character and believablility to the car.
Ryan BoudreauxThe Piedmont Division Modeling The Southern Railway, Norfolk & Western & Norfolk Southern in HO during the merger eraCajun Chef Ryan
Rather late, will probly put these in friday's too... but for those that read this...
Caught 1184 down in Clarksville a few hours back... The setting sun cast an unusual light over the objects...
Alex
jktrains wrote: Dave,Regarding the I-5 pics, sure Zak and I had a little good natured fun, but there was nothing mean spirited in it. He also posted the same pic in at least one other thread, so before things got too far along, the comment was meant to direct him back on course without providing a long winded explanation of photo techniques.
Dave,
Regarding the I-5 pics, sure Zak and I had a little good natured fun, but there was nothing mean spirited in it. He also posted the same pic in at least one other thread, so before things got too far along, the comment was meant to direct him back on course without providing a long winded explanation of photo techniques.
Dude, speak for yourself!!!!!
Nah, I'm just kidding. Yes, it was just a little fun. We all need some good nature fun in our lives.
--Zak Gardner
My Layout Blog: http://mrl369dude.blogspot.com
http://zgardner18.rrpicturearchives.net
VIEW SLIDE SHOW: CLICK ON PHOTO BELOW
- Luke
Modeling the Southern Pacific in the 1960's-1980's
Modeling the Rio Grande Southern First District circa 1938-1946 in HOn3.
loathar wrote:NewHaven I5- Retake that picture and re-post it! I'd like to see it. It looks like you did a good job on it. You just can't tell from that pic.
SilverSpike wrote: I know the weekend is over, but since this thread is still alive on page one, thought I would post some of my latest attempts at weathering:First boxcar weathering attempt[img]http://piedmontdivision.rymocs.com/images/dtibc_011808_02.jpgAny and all suggestions, tips, comments, etc...are encouraged and welcomed!Disclaimer: This is a work in progress (WIP)
I know the weekend is over, but since this thread is still alive on page one, thought I would post some of my latest attempts at weathering:
First boxcar weathering attempt
[img]http://piedmontdivision.rymocs.com/images/dtibc_011808_02.jpg
Any and all suggestions, tips, comments, etc...are encouraged and welcomed!
Disclaimer: This is a work in progress (WIP)
Something's just not doing it for me. Instead of a weathered model, it simply looks like an old metal boxcar that rusted from sitting in a damp basement or something. You didn't put it in a fish tank for a few days, did you?
A wask would help tone things down a put and might give a more uniform look to the entire car. The concentrate of the rivet lines, these should standout because of the dirt that would have accumlated around the rivets as water ran down the sides. There a few different methods to do this, but that add some character and believablility to the car.
And it definately shows, Tyler! Looking great!
I have the same problem, WCfan. A friend gave me two from his SOO Line P2K GP38-2s because SOO uses the 2 window ones. I looked, and I cant find any parts or anything. The only thing I found was an OMI brass one, but in the drawing it didnt look like it slanted. So, for now, these are the only ones I know of, and I cant find out how to get more...
Alec
Well said Dave V![tup]
I agree about improving skills, here's a differance in time on my layout. Here's the origanal photo, taken about a year and a half ago:
[img]http:///photoalbum/Springfield%20Central%20Railroad/images/p1000750_1.jpg[/img]
And here it is a few weeks ago.
[img]http://i233.photobucket.com/albums/ee261/TrainManTy/P1020646.jpg?t=1202761256[/img]
I think I've learned a lot from people here about everything from scenery to weathering. What good is posting your photos here without some constuctive comments?
MRH044 wrote: Well, a corner of my layout needed some scenery, so what could be better than a golf course?? Here is the 17th and 18th hole. Enjoy, MichaelHeres the view from par 3 17th, OB right, water hazard left, and sand all the way to the green. No pressure! This unfortunate fellow hit the hazard - at least he has a train to watch.Teeing off on the way to the clubhouse.
Well, a corner of my layout needed some scenery, so what could be better than a golf course?? Here is the 17th and 18th hole. Enjoy, Michael
Heres the view from par 3 17th, OB right, water hazard left, and sand all the way to the green. No pressure!
This unfortunate fellow hit the hazard - at least he has a train to watch.
Teeing off on the way to the clubhouse.
I just hope the engineer doesn't blow the horn on his backswing. He might skull the shot right over the tracks. Golf courses next to rail lines is not uncommon at all. Some of the great links courses in the UK are right on busy lines.
I like how you used the corner for a green and the next tee box. I am planning something similar for my layout. Even putting in a short par 3 requires a lot of real estate but putting in partial holes as you have done, a green and the next tee is realistic. Old style courses had typically had the tees very close to the previous green.
jeffrey-wimberly wrote: jktrains wrote: jeffrey-wimberly wrote:It's nowhere near finished yet. When I feel like I'm up using an airbrush I will, but as long as I have this problem with my hands being shaky, no dice. The rust areas on it will be partially painted over so it will look like the rust is coming through the paint.Jeff,What happened to the first version of this post, you know the one I had read earlier? It said nothing about it being a work in progress, in fact there's not a word of the original in it now. You and Packer#1 like to re-write history it seems.Again, I know opinions on this subject vary greatly, but IMO if you posts pics here you should be willing to accept some comments, both positive and negative, about your work. As others have stated, constructive comments and feedback are helpful in providing us insight into areas that we may need to improve our techniques. My post provided a suggestion of how you might improve what you're working on, using the tools you know, and I know, you have available to you. You mean the original post on page three? It NEVER had any text with it, other than my signature line.
jktrains wrote: jeffrey-wimberly wrote:It's nowhere near finished yet. When I feel like I'm up using an airbrush I will, but as long as I have this problem with my hands being shaky, no dice. The rust areas on it will be partially painted over so it will look like the rust is coming through the paint.Jeff,What happened to the first version of this post, you know the one I had read earlier? It said nothing about it being a work in progress, in fact there's not a word of the original in it now. You and Packer#1 like to re-write history it seems.Again, I know opinions on this subject vary greatly, but IMO if you posts pics here you should be willing to accept some comments, both positive and negative, about your work. As others have stated, constructive comments and feedback are helpful in providing us insight into areas that we may need to improve our techniques. My post provided a suggestion of how you might improve what you're working on, using the tools you know, and I know, you have available to you.
jeffrey-wimberly wrote:It's nowhere near finished yet. When I feel like I'm up using an airbrush I will, but as long as I have this problem with my hands being shaky, no dice. The rust areas on it will be partially painted over so it will look like the rust is coming through the paint.
Jeff,
What happened to the first version of this post, you know the one I had read earlier? It said nothing about it being a work in progress, in fact there's not a word of the original in it now. You and Packer#1 like to re-write history it seems.
Again, I know opinions on this subject vary greatly, but IMO if you posts pics here you should be willing to accept some comments, both positive and negative, about your work. As others have stated, constructive comments and feedback are helpful in providing us insight into areas that we may need to improve our techniques. My post provided a suggestion of how you might improve what you're working on, using the tools you know, and I know, you have available to you.
No Jeffrey, you know what Dave and I are talking about. The post that followed mine. The one that you completely changed. The same one that Dave referenced in his post. He saw it, I'm sure others did too. I'm not making things up, so just own up that you change the post to make it look better for you. Why didn't you quote Dave's post also?
Also, in the future maybe you should put some text or a description with the picture that says its a work in progress.
Well said. Your post makes the point that I've been saying for more than the last 6 months. If you post realize that people may comment on it, and not all of it will be "love it, let's see more" comments. A dose of honest, constructive comments is better for the person than telling them it looks great when it really doesn't.
MisterBeasley wrote:. . . . . . . . . . It's possible to both complement someone for his efforts, and at the same time give suggestions on how to improve. (By the way, that kind of tact and careful choice of words isn't something we're born with, either. It takes time to learn, too.). . . . . . . . . .
tact and careful choice of words
From the far, far reaches of the wild, wild west I am: rtpoteet
I agree, Lee. I just put a decoder into my FM H10-44 that I had repowered a couple years ago with a Life Like SW1200 mechanism.
And Dave, I agree. I WANT my models critiqued, and I know that my photography sucks.
Here's my contribution:
Still under construction, work halted until trucks can be had. For the Great Dismal Swamp RR; I need a whole bunch of them, all of which will be equipped with working link and pin couplers.