Looks Like I get to start this round of Weekend Photo Fun. :-D
I'll start off with my last photo-chopped version of pictures I took while at the Miniature Railroad Club of York's Holiday Open House
Last pieces of morning mist roll over the hills as 5014 crosses the harbor on it's way out.
Here's the direct link to the much larger picture: (1 meg in size...but a good shot)
http://s52.photobucket.com/albums/g20/digital_griffin/?action=view¤t=Harbor1-1.jpg
Don - Specializing in layout DC->DCC conversions
Modeling C&O transition era and steel industries There's Nothing Like Big Steam!
Nice Photo Don !
Is the Town and Bridge Fictional or is it a model of a real place
Cool Loco !
WHOO HOO ! for the C&O
TerryinTexas
See my Web Site Here
http://conewriversubdivision.yolasite.com/
DG, I could swear I have driven by that busy harbour. Really nicely done!!
-Crandell
I like that photo too, Don. It gave me an "Oh, wow" start to this weekend's thread.
My own contributions are more modest. We've been skiing the last couple of weekends, and dealing with snow at home, too. (A foot last night. 3 hours to get home, 15 miles. Let's not go there.)
Anyway, I did finish up my Jordan Railway Express truck:
And a while back I did the Jordan pickup on the right. I took this picture with the Athearn RTR model of the same truck:
It takes an iron man to play with a toy iron horse.
This is my layout's swan song. As of last night, it nolonger exists. I won't be posting pictures for quite some time.
Here's an in-progress shot of my not-yet-completed-by-a-long-shot N Scale PRR M1 4-8-2 #6811 as she appeared in 1956.
The real PRR M1 #6811 is seen here on the Middle Division in 1953 (Photo by Harold K. Vollrath):
Much work remains!
Modeling the Rio Grande Southern First District circa 1938-1946 in HOn3.
loathar wrote:Secondhand-That really bites! Hope you salvaged what you could.
C_O Fan wrote: Is the Town and Bridge Fictional or is it a model of a real place
Well I know the bridge is used by the C&O...
These are quite common types of bridges actually. I saw several in Florida when I was on vacation this past summer.
I don't know if the layout is fictional or not. Baltimore has a swing and lift bridge near Sparrows Point Steel Plant. Philly might have a bascule bridge.
Here's another view, different angle:
MisterBeasley wrote:
Very nice detailing on that building! And I can always appreciate a scene with a Model A Ford.
secondhandmodeler wrote: This is my layout's swan song. As of last night, it nolonger exists. I won't be posting pictures for quite some time.
I think that's a great starter layout. But on to bigger and better things right?
Good luck.
~D
Took some photos of my old Bucyrus steam shovel this afternoon, trying out a new 11-18mm lens on my DSLR. Wanted to see how close I could get and still get a decent image:
The lens is only a few inches from the shovel of the HO scale model.
(click photo to enlarge)
Bob Boudreau
CANADA
Visit my model railroad photography website: http://sites.google.com/site/railphotog/
About all I have new this weekend is my new Mehano 2-10-2. It's a Canadian National T-2-a and it runs like a dream.
Dr. Frankendiesel aka Scott Running BearSpace Mouse for president!15 year veteran fire fighterCollector of Apple //e'sRunning Bear EnterprisesHistory Channel Club life member.beatus homo qui invenit sapientiam
Heres a Life Like Proto 2000 I painted in the Davenport Rock Island & Northwestern scheme. I also added a working strobe light utlizing my NCE DCC decoder. I painted 3 of these, one with sound. This is one smooooth engine.
Grreat start to the weekend folks!
I've been taking some photos to try and find a couple to grace part of my Christmas Cards this year.Hopewell Junction is pretty much complete at this time:Looking the other way from the yard:Scene is also coming along at Thompson Tiles:
Ray Seneca Lake, Ontario, and Western R.R. (S.L.O.&W.) in HO
We'll get there sooner or later!
Nice pics everyone, as usual. Jeff, that is a good looking steamer, can I borrow it sometime?
Here is what I have been doing the past week:
I still need to do the interior of the lower floor, and get it set properly on the layout. I did the windows in little shop on the corner. You can't tell much about it in the pic but it is a pawn shop. The shop next to it will be a womens dress shop, and I don't know about the rest of them.
This is my first attempt at putting together a kit. I have ordered 2 more, hope they will come out better. I still need some practice on the windows, I got some glue on some of them. Mike
Driline, could you post a tutorial thread on how you installed your strobe? I have been wanting to add some lifhts to my SW-1 but have been afraid to because I might mess up the shell or ruin the paint...AGAIN. Yours looks great. Thanks.
chadw wrote: Driline, could you post a tutorial thread on how you installed your strobe? I have been wanting to add some lifhts to my SW-1 but have been afraid to because I might mess up the shell or ruin the paint...AGAIN. Yours looks great. Thanks.
Chad,
Installing a working strobe is not that difficult. Not to step on Driline's toes, here's a brief description and few pics.
First, pick the strobe type you want. I like to install the bulb inside the plastic lens and not rely in the light tube. Next cut off the light tube. Find the appropriate size drill bit for the bulb and, using a pin vise, start to drill a hole from the bottom of the lens. Make the hole deep enough to house the bulb being careful not to drill through the lens. Insert the bulb into the lens. I like to use Microscale Krystal Kleer to hold the bulb in place. It works to glue it in place and to fill any voids.
Here's one using a Details West RB-106 rotary beacon. This type of beacon has a base with a hole already in it for the light tube to pass thru.
The base and the bottom of the lens/bulb have been painted black, in this case because its the BN roof color and based on prototype photos.
If you're using a Western Cullen style RB (DW RB-126) then the first steps are the same. But, you'll also need to drill a hole in the base for the wires to base thru.
Installation is as easy as locating the proper mounting location on the loco and drilling a small hole for the wires to pass through. Always start with a slightly smaller drill bit than you think you need. Remember, its easier to make the hole bigger rather than smaller. A few drops of CA and you're done.
Now simply connect to a decoder function output, using the proper resistor needed. Lastly program the output function for a rotary beacon effect.
Here's one mounted on a SD40-2
Here's one mounted on a C30-7. Due to the time exposure of the shot the beacon looks like it is constantly on. A video clip would show it better.
MrB, I like the way you picked up both autos in the same shot.
Mike, Great detail. I like the different curtains on the upper floor. The people on the streat give special interest.
Sue
Anything is possible if you do not know what you are talking about.
It isn't easy coming up with "new" vantage points for my current layout. This series is a tricky placement because the backdrop is broken by plumbing cover on the basement wall behind it, and because there is nothing just behind the bridge. Anyway, here are two kinda nice shots that I took recently.
Railphotog, that crane looks like it's gonna take a bite out of your camera. Great shot! Howmus, I really like the shots of the gondolas. Mr. B, nice little trucks. I wonder how many of us also make plastic models as a hobby.
Here are a few more pictures from Japan.
The Yard Offices
Behind the Engine House
Downtown
Panoramic View of the Main Station
Have a nice weekend,
Don
Don Agne
jktrains wrote: chadw wrote: Driline, could you post a tutorial thread on how you installed your strobe? I have been wanting to add some lifhts to my SW-1 but have been afraid to because I might mess up the shell or ruin the paint...AGAIN. Yours looks great. Thanks.Chad,Installing a working strobe is not that difficult. Not to step on Driline's toes, here's a brief description and few pics.Here's one using a Details West RB-106 rotary beacon. This type of beacon has a base with a hole already in it for the light tube to pass thru.
Dammit JK! Always gotta step on my toes
I installed my strobe just as JK describes, except I won't use a beacon unless it has a hole already in it like the Details West RB-106 beacon.
I've tried drilling my own holes in a beacon that was not pre-drilled. Forget about it. Its a PITA and extremely frustrating. I don't have a drill press and trying to hold the strobe in a vise tended to scratch the lens.
I've installed 3 strobes so far and they look excellent. The cool thing about the NCE decoders is that they allow you to adjust the strobe to different flash rates and styles. Very cool.
mikesmowers wrote: I still need some practice on the windows, I got some glue on some of them. Mike
Mike,
Microscale has a product called Micro Kristal Klear.
It's made specifically for gluing clear plastic. It dries clear and you can even use it for making glazing in small window openings.
jktrains wrote:Sorry Bud! One question though. Why the drill press? I've always done mine by hand with a pin vise. The DW base is soft metal and only takes a minute or two to drill through. Now I've got some cast brass headlight assemblies that I want to fully light and they're a little more difficult to drill through, but the pewter base is easy. Try it, I wouldn't steer ya wrong.
JK, I meant the plastic strobe itself. Some come with a sprue attached and no inside hole to mount the lamp. I did use a pin vise for that. I find it near impossible to drill into the plastic lens accurately enough to allow for lamp insertion.
DonaldAgne wrote: The Yard OfficesBehind the Engine HouseDowntownPanoramic View of the Main Station
Very nice Don. It brought back memories of some of the model work I used to see in certain Japanese movies that played on Saturday afternoon television when I was much, much younger. Which leads to my next question: Where is Giderah? She seems to be out of the shots.
I have figured out what is wrong with my brain! On the left side nothing works right, and on the right side there is nothing left!
chadw wrote:Thanks JK and Driline. Installing the strobe would be one of the last steps on building the loco right? One other thing, I got some fiber optic strands last time I stoped at the LHS. How would I form a round bulb on the end? A drop of Kristal Kleer, or heat from a soldering iron, or something else? Thanks in advance.
Yea its the last step. I didn't use fiber. I bought some 1.2mm minatronics lamps in a pkg. of 10 for $10.95 from www.Tonystrainexchange.com . They work great and Tonys is the best! They will help you out with all your DCC needs.
Terraforming continues. first, all the pieces sitting on the work bench, Most are carved, none painted. Then, most put in place, some paint. The entrance to the box canyon (inspired by massacre site in the Superstitions) Offers a nice opportunity for two bridges, yet to be designed.
Looking good Art, one question....What are you going to do when you get to the ceiling?
I have a saws all if you would like to borrow it. Mike