Dr. Frankendiesel aka Scott Running BearSpace Mouse for president!15 year veteran fire fighterCollector of Apple //e'sRunning Bear EnterprisesHistory Channel Club life member.beatus homo qui invenit sapientiam
Another possibility is to attack a length of cork roadbed with a Sur-Form tool or a wood rasp. The downside is that this procedure is a SERIOUS dust generator.
If you don't use track nails or spikes, you can also layer on drywall mud to form the slope. It will accept latex caulk once cured.
Chuck (modeling Central Japan in September, 1964)
73
Bruce in the Peg
The easiest way to do this is to glue down the cork as far into the siding as you can allow. I use yellow carpenters glue, but white glue will work too. Let it dry completely - overnight is good. Then, using a piece of #36 grit sandpaper folded around a block of wood, start sanding. You should be able to gauge how much to take off "by eye", and in about two minutes, you'll be done. Because of the binder in the cork, there's no dust floating around in the air, and the granules are useful as scenic material. Don't complicate a very simple task.
Wayne
There is another method I read about in MR some time ago. Use masking tape to build layers where you want to lower the track. If I remember correctly, the bottom layer of tape extends as far as the length of your slope. The next layer starts about 1/4" or so closer to the turnout and you just keep adding layers of tape until you match the height of the original roadbed, leaving you with a gradual transition to the lower track.
Don Z.
Research; it's not just for geeks.
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Gary M. Collins gmcrailgNOSPAM@gmail.com
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"Common Sense, Ain't!" -- G. M. Collins
http://fhn.site90.net
Thanks again everyone for their suggestions. They're coming in fast and furious and show a lot of creativity. I already decided to try the approach of gluing (rather than nailing) road bed to the plywood substructure - that part of the project is now done, and in a day or two I'll try the Surform / rasp / sandpaper approach. Don's idea of multiple layers of tape in particular sounds like a no-mess approach that I'll keep in mind for the next time.
It seems that this is an issue a lot of us have encountered.
Thanks again. Wish me luck. Cheers.
I tried the shingles and found the grade too high. I wanted more length so the grade would be less steep. Now I wonder if the sanding of the cork method will work when the cork is caulked to foam. I anticipate the cork will flex and not sand as accurately as when glued to plywood.
Am I all wet on this?
Very good question RRCanuck. I was pondering this one myself just the other day. I now have my mainline roadbed down but was wondering how I was going to transverse a mainline with roadbed under it to my transfer yard that will just sit right on top of the foamboard. I also have an incline to go to my mine that will have roadbed under it, but the coal yard itself will not, and I also have my engine maintenance house without, so I will have several transitional area's that I need a "wedge" of roadbed. I think I'll experiment a little myself, but the sanding and the masking tape methods sound reasonable.
Good luck.
Here's an update. Yesterday I glued the cork to the plywood and let it set overnight. Today, just 10 or 15 minutes with the SurForm rasp and some elbow grease, with some touch-up using a file - and it all worked out beautifully. And - it's as easy to do on a curve as it is on straight.
So, thanks again for the suggestion...it was a fast and simple solution to a vexing problem.
Cheers.