HO Athearn locos what do you do?!

[NSlover92]

Hey, I have two or three RTR and Gen. Athearn's the dogbones have pretty much gone to crap in most of them, popping out and stuff. First I have a GP35 I bought that the dogbone was broke but it had a sound decoder so I bought it tried to get the dogbone "We only have one size" well its to short! And I have a F3 the dogbone popped out tonight in a operateing session, I trid putting in back in but its so short and they have glue on it to keep it there, What do I do, where can I get the long ones and anyhelp. Mike 

PS: Of course they are all decorated by a keystone on the nose, lol PRR is the stuff 

[riogrande5761]

Dog bone?

 

Woof!

[Don Z]

By any stretch of the imagination do you mean 'driveshaft'

Don Z.

[loathar]

Are you saying Horizon Hobby told you they only sell one drive shaft length?? That doesn't sound right. If you can't get them from Horizon, NWSL sells drive shaft kits. You make them what ever length you need.
http://www.nwsl.com/

They are on page 9 in the PDF catalog.

PS-I don't think I've ever seen an Athearn with a dog bone?? They had their old style drive line couplers and now the new hex drives. But a dog bone?? Now I'm confused.

[kog1027]

I've taken to cutting the "dog-bone" driveshafts in to two shorter pieces then cutting a piece of plastic tubing and force fitting the "bone" ends into the tube to get the length I need.  

The best tubing for this so far has been from the ink well of a used up ball point pen.

You may have to hunt around for the right size of tube, but I've found that the ink well's plastic is stiff enough that a good tight force fit can be gotten without resorting to glue.

Mark Gosdin 

[jeffers_mz]

Be sure to check the sockets on either end. If they've slipped loose, it'll seem like the driveshaft is too short. You might even be able to move them a millimeter or so closer together and make the shorter driveshaft work as is.

 

[Newyorkcentralfan]

Here's the GP35 parts diagram circa 1973 and 1997.

According to Athearn's website they have the parts in stock.

http://www.athearn.com/Products/Default.aspx?ProdID=ATH90105

http://www.athearn.com/Products/Default.aspx?ProdID=ATH90106 

 

Also, the desire for locos with keystones can be cured with penicillin.

 

Hey, I have two or three RTR and Gen. Athearn's the dogbones have pretty much gone to crap in most of them, popping out and stuff. First I have a GP35 I bought that the dogbone was broke but it had a sound decoder so I bought it tried to get the dogbone "We only have one size" well its to short! And I have a F3 the dogbone popped out tonight in a operateing session, I trid putting in back in but its so short and they have glue on it to keep it there, What do I do, where can I get the long ones and anyhelp. Mike 

PS: Of course they are all decorated by a keystone on the nose, lol PRR is the stuff 

[riogrande5761]

Ok,

 I didn't think I was losing my mind.  No dog bone on that parts sheet!

[NSlover92]

I called it a driveshaft and they and the manuals and part things call it a dog bone. Mike

[NSlover92]

Ok,

 I didn't think I was losing my mind.  No dog bone on that parts sheet!

Well since horrizon took over they oviously changed the internal's I will scan on the parts thing tonight. Mike

[Autobus Prime]

Also, the desire for locos with keystones can be cured with penicillin.

Nycf:

Penicillin lost its effectiveness around 1958, when PRR steam finally became a legend.  There is no cure.

[bogp40]

I don't understand why you seem to be having nothing but trouble with all these driveshafts. Of all the drives out there, these are probably the most bullitproof. Has anyone been tearing them apart and not reassembling properly? I have some Athearn locos that are over 20 years old, wheelsets and brushes will wear out lond before there will be any trouble with the U joint or dogbones. If you don't have any luck for thes replacements, A-Line Has a universal driveshaft set that will allow you to assemble almost any driveline regardless of frame length, motor type or flywheels.

[jeffrey-wimberly]

I'm pretty sure he's talking about the newer hex head shafts. I've had some minor trouble with getting them to sit just right while reassembling a loco.

[Soo Line fan]

Well since horrizon took over they oviously changed the internal's I will scan on the parts thing tonight. Mike

Both of the instructions sheets that New York central fan provided are for the old wide body Athearn GP 35. Note the removable roof on both models.
The first one is the older outside frame bearing type and the second one has the later inside bearing trucks.
The new RTR Athearn uses the Rail Power Shell and newer hex drive couplers.
As far as your drive shafts falling out I believe that you need to slide the worm couplers out a little to close up the distance the shaft has to span.
Jim

[riogrande5761]

Also, the desire for locos with keystones can be cured with penicillin.

Nycf:

Penicillin lost its effectiveness around 1958, when PRR steam finally became a legend.  There is no cure.

If Penicillin lost it's effectiveness the year before I was born, why is Bristol Myers Squibb still manufacturing it at the plant here in Syracuse NY?  Hmmm...

[Autobus Prime]

Also, the desire for locos with keystones can be cured with penicillin.

Nycf:

Penicillin lost its effectiveness around 1958, when PRR steam finally became a legend.  There is no cure.

If Penicillin lost it's effectiveness the year before I was born, why is Bristol Myers Squibb still manufacturing it at the plant here in Syracuse NY?  Hmmm...

rg:

Because it's effective on other bacteria.  I was only referring to Foamibacillus Pennsylvanitis.

 

[Newyorkcentralfan]

Penicillin lost its effectiveness around 1958, when PRR steam finally became a legend.  There is no cure.

 No cure?! Of course there's a cure. Didn't you ever see Old Yeller? ;-)

 

[ICRR1964]

This has been a common problem with the newer Athearn loco's with the hex drive, they have to be reassembled perfect or you will have problems. I have some of the newer hex drive units, and they do run nice, but are a bit of a pain to work on. I ended up converting them to the older slip cup and shaftts that are supplied by A-line products, the shafts are longer and can be cut down. You will have to swap out the the flywheels or the ball socket cup in order to make it work. This sounds like allot of work but its really not. NWSL does make kits also for converting them. Older Athern parts work fine to, good luck

[bogp40]

I'm pretty sure he's talking about the newer hex head shafts. I've had some minor trouble with getting them to sit just right while reassembling a loco.

So now that these RTR, newer drives have been out for a few years, what's everyones take on their overall performance and reliability? Is this hex drive that finicky or is this a fluke? Kato  and early Atlas, Stewart/ Katos have been using this for about 16 years and are the most reliable and the best running of all my equipment,

I wasn't thrilled with the quality of paint and lettering, especially on the Chessie runs. I've seen numerous ones at the club, some seem to run great others not so. This is one reason I continued to buy Atlas, P2K, BLI and Stewart to fill my B&O and Chessie roster. Maybe it's not fair to compare them to these better quality pieces but have I overlooked the Athearn to fill the hole in my roster?

[kog1027]

I used the motor & drivetrain of newer Athearn RTR GP40-2's to power an older Stewart U25B and RS12.  That's what lead me to chopping up the driveshafts to get the right lengths, the GP40-2 shafts were all just a little too short or way too long.

The trucks' gearing was de-burred, cleaned & lubed and everything was carefully aligned  & assembled.  The resulting engines make only slightly more noise than my Atlas & Proto2000 engines do.

As far as I can tell, it typically takes this certain amount of effort to get the newer Athearn drive to be a good runner.  This is OK if, like me, you are building up or rebuilding an engine from spare parts. 

However, it is a lot more questionable to have to do that kind of work to a brand new $50 - $100+ engine.  For that amount of money it is reasonable to expect that the engine will run smooth & quiet out of the box.  The Athearn mechanism can't guarantee that, while Atlas & others seem to come much closer to that goal.

Mark Gosdin

[loathar]

Penicillin lost its effectiveness around 1958, when PRR steam finally became a legend.  There is no cure.

 No cure?! Of course there's a cure. Didn't you ever see Old Yeller? ;-)

 

Or The Yearling.

[MONONC420]

I have all 2 of my athearn RTR engines apart as i have KATO motors to replace the stock athearn motors.

                                           Christian

[Autobus Prime]

Penicillin lost its effectiveness around 1958, when PRR steam finally became a legend.  There is no cure.

 No cure?! Of course there's a cure. Didn't you ever see Old Yeller? ;-)

Nycf:

*sniffle*

 

[Anonymous]

I found the older blue box athearn to be bullet proof. I dont know what the dogbone term means but I suspect one refers to the drive shaft system that was used in those older engines.

[NSlover92]

I found the older blue box athearn to be bullet proof. I dont know what the dogbone term means but I suspect one refers to the drive shaft system that was used in those older engines.

No its the drive shaft system used in the new Athearns. Mike 

[jasperofzeal]

I found the older blue box athearn to be bullet proof. I dont know what the dogbone term means but I suspect one refers to the drive shaft system that was used in those older engines.

No its the drive shaft system used in the new Athearns. Mike 

Did you ever find your part?

I was looking throught the Athearn website for some parts and I came accross the dogbone you're talking about.  They are given in sizes, hopefully you can find the one you need:

 

90111	DOGBONE .660"	6	$5.50
90112	DOGBONE .610"	6	$5.50
90113	DOGBONE 1.608"	6	$5.50
90114	DOGBONE .951"	6	$5.50
90117	DOGBONE 1.94"	6	$5.50
90118	DOGBONE 1.230"	6	$5.50
90119	DOGBONE 2.150"	6	$5.50

 

I'm not sure which one you may need, but at least your options are there now.  If you want to see the rest of the parts list that Athearn has, go here: http://www.athearn.com/Products/Parts/Default.aspx  I found the dogbone parts towards the bottom of the list.

[BRAKIE]

Hey, I have two or three RTR and Gen. Athearn's the dogbones have pretty much gone to crap in most of them, popping out and stuff. First I have a GP35 I bought that the dogbone was broke but it had a sound decoder so I bought it tried to get the dogbone "We only have one size" well its to short! And I have a F3 the dogbone popped out tonight in a operateing session, I trid putting in back in but its so short and they have glue on it to keep it there, What do I do, where can I get the long ones and anyhelp. Mike 

PS: Of course they are all decorated by a keystone on the nose, lol PRR is the stuff 

Other then tweaking all my locomotives regardless of brand to get slower smoother tie to tie creep which I love to do-kinda like  it ain't broke why are you fixing it? I haven't had any problems with the dog bones.I did twist  and break a drive shaft on a Atlas/Kato RS11 back in '93 but,that's a whole different story.

[NSlover92]

Hey, I have two or three RTR and Gen. Athearn's the dogbones have pretty much gone to crap in most of them, popping out and stuff. First I have a GP35 I bought that the dogbone was broke but it had a sound decoder so I bought it tried to get the dogbone "We only have one size" well its to short! And I have a F3 the dogbone popped out tonight in a operateing session, I trid putting in back in but its so short and they have glue on it to keep it there, What do I do, where can I get the long ones and anyhelp. Mike 

PS: Of course they are all decorated by a keystone on the nose, lol PRR is the stuff 

Other then tweaking all my locomotives regardless of brand to get slower smoother tie to tie creep which I love to do-kinda like  it ain't broke why are you fixing it? I haven't had any problems with the dog bones.I did twist  and break a drive shaft on a Atlas/Kato RS11 back in '93 but,that's a whole different story.

well I am fixin' it cause for some reason the end shear off on the grades at the club, I will be pulling and then "snap, click click click (hitting the sides)". Yeah I got it worked out, the lady I e-mailed said they only had one size of dogbone, but I took on the short ones and moved the worm gear down and it works fine now. Mike

[hobo9941]

Other then tweaking all my locomotives regardless of brand to get slower smoother tie to tie creep which I love to do-kinda like

Ranks right up there with watching paint dry, and grass grow.

[BRAKIE]

Other then tweaking all my locomotives regardless of brand to get slower smoother tie to tie creep which I love to do-kinda like

Ranks right up there with watching paint dry, and grass grow.

ROFLOL!

---------------------

Mike said:well I am fixin' it cause for some reason the end shear off on the grades at the club, I will be pulling and then "snap, click click click (hitting the sides)". Yeah I got it worked out, the lady I e-mailed said they only had one size of dogbone, but I took on the short ones and moved the worm gear down and it works fine now.

----------------------------------------

Mike,I have had club members ask why I am fixing locomotives that it broke..

Its really a old school thing I still like to do.Maybe I am a dinosaur after all.