just an update of construction progress. got some of the track laid, now need to get some feeder wires installed. Never new how much more complicated things could get with the addition of grades. Oh, and by the way, selector the ski jump as u put is now finished..lol
this was the ski jump before it was finished...lol
Okay, the people who made N scale 2-8-8-2s are (are you ready?):
MRC
Atlas/Rivarossi
Life-Like (now Walthers)
ConCor
Could be any of the above (though most likely not Life-Like).
That it says "MADE IN GERMANY" and not "WEST GERMANY" tells you it was made after November 1989...
Modeling the Rio Grande Southern First District circa 1938-1946 in HOn3.
Dave Vollmer wrote: oleirish wrote: I would like to know who made the 2-8-8-2 so I go to them for parts.And yes the mirco Tsunami is on the list!!! for my bachmann 2-6-6-2ThanksJIMDaveyou are an "N" scaler I think?I'am working with "N" my self,but have a little problem ID'ing anLocomotive I got of E... It is an 2-8-8-2 It runs ok but has been droped and needs a new cowcatcher/rails the only thing is on the bottom it says"MADE IN GERMANY" that all I know about it.It allso needs new traction tires on the rear engine.I throught you might be abble to help me?I allso have one of the newer Bachmann 2-6-6-2 that is brand new and is real nice and runs exclent.JIMYes, I'm in N scale. What's the specific issue you're having? My knowledge of N scale steam is limited to those that can be kitbashed into Pennsylvania RR prototypes of the 1950s. The Pennsy had a few N&W-style HH2 2-8-8-2s (similar to the LL P2K 2-8-8-2s) but they were generally used on Lines West of Pittsburgh (I model Lines East) and were off the roster by the late 1940s (I model 1956), so I don't have one. They're neat locos, though, and I would consider one if I could pick up the DCC-ready one cheap. Seems to me it might make a decent candidate for the new Tsunami micro-decoder!
oleirish wrote: I would like to know who made the 2-8-8-2 so I go to them for parts.And yes the mirco Tsunami is on the list!!! for my bachmann 2-6-6-2ThanksJIMDaveyou are an "N" scaler I think?I'am working with "N" my self,but have a little problem ID'ing anLocomotive I got of E... It is an 2-8-8-2 It runs ok but has been droped and needs a new cowcatcher/rails the only thing is on the bottom it says"MADE IN GERMANY" that all I know about it.It allso needs new traction tires on the rear engine.I throught you might be abble to help me?I allso have one of the newer Bachmann 2-6-6-2 that is brand new and is real nice and runs exclent.JIM
Thanks
JIM
Dave
you are an "N" scaler I think?I'am working with "N" my self,but have a little problem ID'ing an
Locomotive I got of E... It is an 2-8-8-2 It runs ok but has been droped and needs a new cowcatcher/rails the only thing is on the bottom it says"MADE IN GERMANY" that all I know about it.It allso needs new traction tires on the rear engine.I throught you might be abble to help me?I allso have one of the newer Bachmann 2-6-6-2 that is brand new and is real nice and runs exclent.
Yes, I'm in N scale. What's the specific issue you're having? My knowledge of N scale steam is limited to those that can be kitbashed into Pennsylvania RR prototypes of the 1950s. The Pennsy had a few N&W-style HH2 2-8-8-2s (similar to the LL P2K 2-8-8-2s) but they were generally used on Lines West of Pittsburgh (I model Lines East) and were off the roster by the late 1940s (I model 1956), so I don't have one. They're neat locos, though, and I would consider one if I could pick up the DCC-ready one cheap. Seems to me it might make a decent candidate for the new Tsunami micro-decoder!
oleirish wrote: Daveyou are an "N" scaler I think?I'am working with "N" my self,but have a little problem ID'ing anLocomotive I got of E... It is an 2-8-8-2 It runs ok but has been droped and needs a new cowcatcher/rails the only thing is on the bottom it says"MADE IN GERMANY" that all I know about it.It allso needs new traction tires on the rear engine.I throught you might be abble to help me?I allso have one of the newer Bachmann 2-6-6-2 that is brand new and is real nice and runs exclent.JIM
Got this while I was in town today. It would make an interesting model.
Dr. Frankendiesel aka Scott Running BearSpace Mouse for president!15 year veteran fire fighterCollector of Apple //e'sRunning Bear EnterprisesHistory Channel Club life member.beatus homo qui invenit sapientiam
Thank you. I am going to try some model car primer with an air brush on one of the buildngs. Even at my age you learn from reading!!
A Parting shot. Caught a REAL FOX running away!
I know, enough of my WILD LIFE
George In Midcoast Maine, 'bout halfway up the Rockland branch
Here is a shot of the Finger Lakes Railway's U23B in the LV heritage scheme.
Dan Pikulski
www.DansResinCasting.com
CMLewis wrote:Looks to me like this deer has a nasty cold. Therefore, this is a picture of a DEERailment and, as such, is appropriate for a train forum.(Sorry all, couldn't resist!)Chris
Looks to me like this deer has a nasty cold. Therefore, this is a picture of a DEERailment and, as such, is appropriate for a train forum.
(Sorry all, couldn't resist!)
Chris
Ohhhhhhh! gag, gag, gag! That is BAAAAAADDDDDDD! I loved it.
Ray Seneca Lake, Ontario, and Western R.R. (S.L.O.&W.) in HO
We'll get there sooner or later!
claycts wrote:What kind of paint did you use on Mechants Row??? I tried some Craft paint and it did not work very well.Bear Mountain, Family lived in Havestraw NY.
What kind of paint did you use on Mechants Row??? I tried some Craft paint and it did not work very well.
Bear Mountain, Family lived in Havestraw NY.
Bear Mountain? Naw, it is Bare Mountain (it's a pun on Bare Hill on Canandaigua Lake - old Seneca Legend and the fact that it is a Clear Cut Logging operation on the layout..... check out: http://www.footprintpress.com/FingerLakes/Barehill.htm
As for the paints, I used a combination of things mostly mixed to order from what I have on hand. I mostly used Rustolium American Accents (available in fairly small bottles and reasonably priced) I found at the local Value Hardware store, Some Muralo paints that I use for scenery - pint cans from the True Value Hardware store downtown, some Woodland Scenics paints (concrete was the only one I used), and the Badger line of hobby paints from my LHS. Most were thinned a bit to preserve as much of the fine detail as possible and still get good coverage. You are right that a lot of paints just won't stick to that particular building. I washed it several times using detergent and very hot water and still some paints didn't stick. I have found that if you give it a light coat of plastic compatable spray paint first, then other paints can be brushed on with no problem. There is lighting in some of the apartments on the second floor. Since it is 1925, stores closed at a reasonable hour, everyone went home to their families..........
claycts wrote: Well I will fire a salvo against ME But this is a very DEER picture:This was what I was doing this summer. Bought about 75 acers of land for a hunting area for some friends of mine (I do not hunt) My fun are the pictures and target shooting.Sorry, but after all the FUN you where having I had to do it!! DEER I hope no one gets mad!!!
Well I will fire a salvo against ME
But this is a very DEER picture:
This was what I was doing this summer. Bought about 75 acers of land for a hunting area for some friends of mine (I do not hunt) My fun are the pictures and target shooting.
Sorry, but after all the FUN you where having I had to do it!! DEER I hope no one gets mad!!!
UP2CSX wrote: Spectratone, what kind of scenery are you trying to recreate? If it's the arid desert Southwest, I think the background hills look just about right. Maybe a few more splotches of green to represent mesquite but it's very good as it stands.
Spectratone, what kind of scenery are you trying to recreate? If it's the arid desert Southwest, I think the background hills look just about right. Maybe a few more splotches of green to represent mesquite but it's very good as it stands.
Spectratone, I agree with UP2CSX. You've done an excellent job. I would also agree that a few more very small indications of vegitation on the "painted hill" above the Santa Fe might be in order to fool the eye a bit more in blending the actual foreground into the background. The blend of the areas on the left and the right are perfect !
Regards,
Tom
here is my first contribution, these shots didn't came out the way I hoped they would, but at least they give you an idea about the first module of my layout
4 Axle EMD (GP38-2) waiting for a red signal
main street
the yard..
I hope you enjoyed these shots, please note everything is still WIP
Well I haven't done to much to my layout this week. I did paint a mountain but it would be a waste of a photo. I did work on my next weathered car for Ebay. I try to do one a week. This one took awhile. I did the graffiti by hand. I tried to make it look like a sunset on the one side. I also tried to make the couplers rusted real good. Its a great looking car, but weighs a good bit due to the custom load.
"Rust, whats not to love?"
UP2CSX wrote:That wood in the tender looks pretty good. The only thing I'd try is to stain some of the wood since a wood load is rarely all the same color. The weathering job is probably a little too much but that's how we all started out. If you want to try for an interesting effect, get some rubbing alcohol and rub it lightly on the flat panels between the uprights. It will remove some of the heavier weathering on the flat panels and leave it on the uprights, where most of the rust and dirt tend to collect. Just think about what part of a car the rain would run down in sheets. Those are the parts of the car that always stay (relatively) clean.
Plan to do both just have not got to it yet.
UP2CSX wrote: Ray, that bandstand came out great, as did your pictures. Those flower beds were the finishing touch! By coincidence, I just finished redoing my Merchants Row building that you have on your layout. I added a scratchbuilt lighted sign, put in some interior lights, repainted one of the store fronts I've hated since I did it, and added some awnings. I realized today while riding through downtown Prattville that that was the one things I was missing for an authentic Southern town - awnings. Have to do something to keep the scorching Southern sun off the shoppers. I'll take some pictures tomorrow when I get all the awning supports up.George, I used a combination of Flouquil and Polly Scale paints. I think I have 12 different colors on all the store fronts. I tried some of the craft store acrylics but they are too thick and cover up too much detail. I'll be interested to see if Ray used the same kind of paints. P.S. I like your deer, nice shot.
Ray, that bandstand came out great, as did your pictures. Those flower beds were the finishing touch! By coincidence, I just finished redoing my Merchants Row building that you have on your layout. I added a scratchbuilt lighted sign, put in some interior lights, repainted one of the store fronts I've hated since I did it, and added some awnings. I realized today while riding through downtown Prattville that that was the one things I was missing for an authentic Southern town - awnings. Have to do something to keep the scorching Southern sun off the shoppers. I'll take some pictures tomorrow when I get all the awning supports up.
George, I used a combination of Flouquil and Polly Scale paints. I think I have 12 different colors on all the store fronts. I tried some of the craft store acrylics but they are too thick and cover up too much detail. I'll be interested to see if Ray used the same kind of paints.
P.S. I like your deer, nice shot.
Thank you for both. THe craft paint for me WOULD NOT COVER. I tried using FloTrol to slow down the drying so that it would flow better. I think I needed to wash the plastic better.
I have an Ultrasonic cleaner and I will try dropping the parts in that. DPM kits will probably be the same problem (have about 30 of them to do, OH JOY!!)
Nice work and pictures.
I can't help myself I am so excited my friend tooks pictures of my layout that I am putting up another pic.
You can see my first attemp at weather on the UP gondola. The 2nd attemp is on the D&RGW 0-2-0 Switcher on the tender I added the wood because the plastic wood pile was lacking to say the best.
howmus wrote:Done went and bought me a heavy duty tripod for the camera today. The one I had was light duty and didn't do a good job of supporting the Rebel or my Movie camera. So I just had to go and try her out....... Just a few more photos of Hopewell Junction. Took the telephoto lens and went across the valley and took them from the top of Bare Mountain. (Well not really.....) ;) :D Some old timers are having a game of checkers outside of Roses Diner. The Reverend Miller is gonna have to stop reading so much and chase off them raccoons out back too in the garbage!The afternoon freight coasts downhill behind the business district.
UP2CSX wrote:Nice unit there, alphadawg. I just had the strangest experience. I have two industries at the end of my main street spur. Both have overhanging platform awnings. One clears a car on the side but not on the bottom. The other one cleared a car on the bottom. Now it won't clear a car on the side or the bottom. I have no idea what I did to change this. Hmmm....taps foot and wonders who is running a conspiracy to move platform awnings when I'm not looking.
Thanks, UP2CSX. You may have a case of extreme expansion and contraction on the part of the awnings, the freight cars, you operators or worse yet, a combination of all three. You might want to enforce rule Z part 0.1 paragraph zed line 235.6 on operating nights ("The general manager reserves the right to deny coffee and donut priveleges to any and all operators and their accomplices found to be messing with the aforementioned general manager's head on operating night.....).
Bill
"Never try to teach a pig to sing. It wastes your time and annoys the pig"