WCfan wrote: Well, that SD40-2 looks like a nice puppy too! Got any pics of that , lol.Nice lcoomotive, I need to add working ditch lights to all my locomotives, one day...
Well, that SD40-2 looks like a nice puppy too! Got any pics of that , lol.
Nice lcoomotive, I need to add working ditch lights to all my locomotives, one day...
None of my engines would have ditch lights. (1970-1983 is my planned era, fudged back 3 years from the original end year to accomodate lots of freight cars)
Vincent
Wants: 1. high-quality, sound equipped, SD40-2s, C636s, C30-7s, and F-units in BN. As for ones that don't cost an arm and a leg, that's out of the question....
2. An end to the limited-production and other crap that makes models harder to get and more expensive.
My Youtube Channel: http://www.youtube.com/user/JR7582 My Flickr Photos: http://www.flickr.com/photos/wcfan/
SD60M wrote: Heres a better shot!
Heres a better shot!
That puppy looks NICE!
Sawyer Berry
Clemson University c/o 2018
Building a protolanced industrial park layout
TrainManTy wrote: Cool! Are those operating ditch lights?Sawyer; I figured you would, but I was just thrown off by the fact that the whole car was one color except for that one part.
Cool! Are those operating ditch lights?
Sawyer; I figured you would, but I was just thrown off by the fact that the whole car was one color except for that one part.
Railfan Alex wrote: Nice work guys!(and nice buying!)I have an MRC Prodigy Advance, and I really like it. But I want to trade it for a Digitrax DCC system, because of my club, they have Digitrax, and I already bought 2 Digitrax throttles, so you get the idea. I also want computer interface via Loconet, another reason to switch to Digitrax.Other than dat, I really love my Prodigy Advance.Anyone want it? Please contact me offline...use a PM.
Nice work guys!
(and nice buying!)
I have an MRC Prodigy Advance, and I really like it. But I want to trade it for a Digitrax DCC system, because of my club, they have Digitrax, and I already bought 2 Digitrax throttles, so you get the idea. I also want computer interface via Loconet, another reason to switch to Digitrax.
Other than dat, I really love my Prodigy Advance.
Anyone want it? Please contact me offline...use a PM.
No problem Tyler, I'll have that fixed soon. Mr. De lery, I'll give ya 30 cents for it, lol. BTW, get on facebook, lol.
Anyone want it? (edited by selector) Please contact me offline...use a PM.
Alex
SD60M wrote: Well i finally got a new loco today and a new dcc system! I traded in some old locos and a bachmann e-z command and they gave me a BLI UP AC6000CW with sound for $70 BUCKS when they were asking $200 for it! I also purchased a MRC Prodigy Express and this thing is so much more complicated than the ez command! BTW my 5'x8' benchwork is almost done i should have it finished tomorrow! I will keep you guys posted! Hope u like the pic!
Well i finally got a new loco today and a new dcc system! I traded in some old locos and a bachmann e-z command and they gave me a BLI UP AC6000CW with sound for $70 BUCKS when they were asking $200 for it! I also purchased a MRC Prodigy Express and this thing is so much more complicated than the ez command! BTW my 5'x8' benchwork is almost done i should have it finished tomorrow! I will keep you guys posted! Hope u like the pic!
Gotta love that modern day power. Can't wait to see that benchwork!
super cheif n wrote:dude nice job i'm about to start on my first module again(had problems the first time) all i have to do is rip up the roadbed and clean it up then start all over again.
Thanks, if your talking to me. the yard and transfer spur are actualy below the level of the main, because I was to lazy to add roadbed, but from how it looks, I'm gonna leave it. might ease up one or both of the turns though.
TrainManTy wrote: Guilford Guy wrote:I'm on a roll... I've finished 7 out of 8 Athearn Impack's, and am finishing up a GP38-2... oof... too much work... ack... oof...You should take a break and come drive trains...Sawyer; are you planning on painting that part of the roof on the crew car that's still red?
Guilford Guy wrote:I'm on a roll... I've finished 7 out of 8 Athearn Impack's, and am finishing up a GP38-2... oof... too much work... ack... oof...
You should take a break and come drive trains...
Sawyer; are you planning on painting that part of the roof on the crew car that's still red?
heck yeah man. I've been busy w/ school/football/the locos. I think it's just gonna get painted blue though. Also got an ex-CB&Q hopper for painting too.
How about some progress for once in a while, lol! Well folks, I've actually started a decent-sized project. but first, a sneak peek at the ARR paint scheme:
and yes, I know it looks like crap, but I'm not done. this is just a sneak peek (hand rails will remain red)
and here's what I call my crew car. part of a b-mann ATSF caboose riding on a b-mann P&LE gondola:
looking around my room because my parents kicked me off the computer for about 3 hours, I relized I coukld add a little yard and another industry to the layout. And yes, those curves are sharp (oh well):
and yes, that one is a little fuzzy, but the others are good. and yes, I will work on the roof of the transfer building.
Railfan Alex wrote: super cheif n wrote: Railfan Alex wrote: Insulfrog are easier to wire.Just add feeder wires where track doesn't get power, and every 3 feet. That will insure no problems.but will they still be dead if the switch is switched the other way? I think so. You'll need to wire those tracks as well, or check to see if current is passed through the switchpoints, under the insulated frog, and to the appropriate track.
super cheif n wrote: Railfan Alex wrote: Insulfrog are easier to wire.Just add feeder wires where track doesn't get power, and every 3 feet. That will insure no problems.but will they still be dead if the switch is switched the other way?
Railfan Alex wrote: Insulfrog are easier to wire.Just add feeder wires where track doesn't get power, and every 3 feet. That will insure no problems.
Insulfrog are easier to wire.
Just add feeder wires where track doesn't get power, and every 3 feet. That will insure no problems.
but will they still be dead if the switch is switched the other way?
I think so. You'll need to wire those tracks as well, or check to see if current is passed through the switchpoints, under the insulated frog, and to the appropriate track.
ok thanks i'll experiment with it later.
BUMP
Can't let this die on us now!
"He is no fool who gives what he cannot keep to gain that which he cannot lose." - Jim Elliot Visit my blog! http://becomingawarriorpoet.blogspot.com
well you see i'm not in an ntrak club right now that is active my club has a ntrak lay out but it is not mobile. so i really don't have a standard to follow. so you guys can help me decide how i should wire the picture i posted.
also school starts tomorow so there goes most of my time.
Railfan Alex wrote: Sorry, forgot to post my reply to dat.What do you mean by what Peco?Do you mean what radius?Do you mean what code track?Do you mean Insulfrog or electrofrog?Let us know, then we can help out.
Sorry, forgot to post my reply to dat.
What do you mean by what Peco?
Do you mean what radius?
Do you mean what code track?
Do you mean Insulfrog or electrofrog?
Let us know, then we can help out.
i mean which insulfrog or electrofrog and i'm thinking of using insulfrog because it's easier and did you see my other post on the page before this one about how i should wire this?
WCfan wrote: Thanks for the compliments!
Thanks for the compliments!
Looks good Jordan!
But it looks thick, maybe it's just me...