Those IHC passenger cars require quite a bit of weight, to make them run right.
The flat weights I mentioned previously work great on IHC and Rivorossi passenger cars.
"I like my Pullman Standards & Budds in Stainless Steel flavors, thank you!"
I've used Goo before. CA just doesn't work for me. I had a bunch of Accurail 3 bay C&O hoppers. They advised against using Goo and CA didn't hold. I tried rubber cement - that cheap elemendary school glue. Works great.
I've used self adhesive wheel weights in my IHC cars. Evenly placed directly above both trucks
Gordon
Brought to you by the letters C.P.R. as well as D&H!
K1a - all the way
Dow Corning silicone bathtub caulk.
The stuff that smells like vinegar as it dries. Sticks well to all kinds of metal, and plastic, and it won't eat the plastic. My weights tend to be anything heavy I have lying around, old bolts, metal scraps, or sheet lead flashing. The DowCorning sticks to all of them. New lead sheet tends to be greasy, so I pickle it in household vinegar to put some tooth in the metal for the caulk to grab onto. The caulk stays slightly rubbery and I have never had it fail and let a weight rattle around. I even glue the flat Athearn weights in place with it just to prevent the rattle of a loose weight when you pick up the car.
Goo and Pliobond have active solvents that attack plastic.
David Starr www.newsnorthwoods.blogspot.com
I use latex caulk for the steel weights that come with cars. It is cheap and fills gaps, and I have it on hand for laying flextrack. I clean the weights with rubbing alcohol before caulking in place.
For extra weight my local tire dealer got me boxes of 1/2 oz and 1/4 oz stick on wheel weights, very economical about $20 for about 20lbs of weight. But be sure to have them do it with a regular order, you don't want to pay special shipping for this order. The foam back adhesive has not failed.
Doug Harding
I use a 3M product called Super Weatherstrip Adhesive. This is similar to Walthers Goo but works better. You can get a large tube from an automotive parts store for the same price as the tiny tube of Goo.
Jim
Bravo!! Ailenes is one of the most versatile glues I have. It's great for weights, window glass, laser wood kits and ... Etched running boards on plastic freight car roofs.
It dries clear and flexible which allows the etching to flex with temperature changes andnot pop off like ACCs will do.
As far as using GOO, rubber cement and any other petroleum based adhesive, stay away. I've wrecked some nice cars with GOO or Pliobond when the solvent ( like Toulene ) flashes off over the years and it softens and warps the styrene. You don'teven have kitbash fodder when it's done it's job, you have LAsagne with Kadee couplers.
The silicone is good but takes a long time to cure.
Foam tape by 3M is the only tape brand I trustbut you have to make sure the metal weight is clean and oil free otherwise it will let go.
Rob
The last paragraph hit the nail on the head. BOTH surfaces must be clean before any glue will do its job. The lead has a natural film from the molding process that must be removed. The plastic also has a mold release agent that will not allow any glue to stick to it properly. Same goes with the metal weights if they are not enough. CLEAN your area first with a good OILESS cleaner. Don't use rubbing alcohol as it will leave an oily film. Don't use Laquer Thinner as it will destroy the plastic FAST! I use lighter fluid or denatured alcohol on a cloth to rub over the surfaces I want to attach together. Then I use the Liquid Nails brand adhesive that is designed to be used on foam board. If it won't hurt the foam it won't hurt the moulded plastic in your train cars either. Follow the instructions and you won't have a loose weight in your lifetime. I have used this adhesive to attach relays and switch machines uner the layout for several years. It is not super fast drying and gives you time to adjust your item before the final anchoring. What is the best glue to use? What ever is available and WORKS for YOU! Roger
http://cp&wrailroad.fabpage.com
About the only one that I have nothing good to say about is the CA. Never been satisfied with the results.
Best and cheapest, by quite a margin, is plain old acrylic latex caulk. Stays pliable and does a good job on all but dusty surfaces....so as said just previously, clean!
Is Alene's Tacky Glue the same or close to Hob-E-Tac glue by Woodland Senics?
Douglas
I use stick on weights you use for radio control airplanes,It works great and never had one come off!!
JIM
Alenes is a white water soluble glue. They have a few different formulas. It smells like Modge Podge a little. I haven't used Woodland Scenics glue yet.
I try to find alternatives to the Hobby Shop product. My wife works in an art store and some of thier products are not only less costly but more plentiful. The stock rotation is more frequent some times. I've bought glues at the HS that was useless. Of corse they are out of business too.
The other good thing about art stores ( real art stores, not big boxes ) are the great paint brushes, colored pencils and other materials that can spark a new project or technique. I found a black crafting ribbon today that will make great window screening for my waycars.
The foam-tape weights ae really handy, but if I am using other metal weights I use silicone adheasive. Less chance of solvent adheasive damage potential.
Bob B.
electrolove wrote:What glue are you guys using when gluing metal weight inside cars? I do not want the weight to come loose because I can't glue it again when the car is finished (roof glued).
From the far, far reaches of the wild, wild west I am: rtpoteet
I don't understand the trouble some may be having with using Goo. Never had any problems or a weight loosening.
Many times the weight is needed to stiften a floor or frame assembly. Especially true for flats, bulkhead and gons. The contact cement "Goo", bonds the weight in minutes (once properly used) and I move on to continuing work on the car.
Caulk will do the same, but I just don't want to wait until it has set.
Pliobond rubber cement also does a great job. Use this for glueing bridge track to styrene girders etc.
The automotive stick on weights are also an inexpensive solution (and an identical product) to the costly hobby variety.
Modeling B&O- Chessie Bob K. www.ssmrc.org
I am in the process of trying to upgrade and IHC Sooth Sided Passenger car, part od which includes adding weight... and maybe an interior!! Which would have to go over the weight! The weight in question I've decided to use is XYZ 100 (it may be SLI 100 or somwething like that). I was planing on using gtood old CA Super Glue to do that until I read, "No, don't do that!". So I next decided to go to Aleens (?) super tacky (?) stuff , until I read that a better alternative would be to use Silicon Caulk. Then I came across your post of using E-600, which then needed to be researched.
I them came acroos the the following chart:
Contrary to posters who say not to use Super Glue, aparently it is good good for bonding to metal; that siad who am I to argue with EXPERIENCE!? Therefore I think I'll buy and try some E 6000 which is a multi purpose adhesive, not unlike Super Glue. My GoTo will be still be Super Glue for 99% of the things I need to do (including closing up wounds that refuse to stop bleeding -- I good thing to carry with you at all times. Ask me how I know? I had a cut finger that refused to stop bleeding. I went to an ER and there they put 6 stitches in the finger and covered it with Super Glue! No more blood. ) But for this application I think I'll try the E-6000.
I hope this chart will answer once and for all people who find themslves in the same quandry I, and many other people, have found themselves in. What is the best the adheasive to use.
been using elmers school glue/white glue for years on everything--kits, weights, all kinds of repairs, even a chassis. $1 a bottle. it dries clear and makes a firm but not permanent bond. handle the object with care, not a high price to pay because the tradeoff is you can easily pop a bond loose and reposition. no toxic fumes either. -rob
JB Quik Weld is your best bet.
Rich
Alton Junction
I use a thin layer of Gorilla Waterproof Caulk & Seal. It fills any voids, holds well, and stays flexible once cured.
Tom
https://tstage9.wixsite.com/nyc-modeling
Time...It marches on...without ever turning around to see if anyone is even keeping in step.
Post resurrected after 17 years! Might be a record?
azbobcatI am in the process of trying to upgrade and IHC Sooth Sided Passenger car, part od which includes adding weight... and maybe an interior!! Which would have to go over the weight!
Not necessarily. I generally add those square 1/4 oz. stick-on weights in the ends of passenger cars, the vestibule area. If they are visible through the door windows, I paint them black.
Anyway, for gluing weights in cars, I've always used Walthers Goo. Works well, and allows you to make sure the car weight is exactly seated in the middle of the car (and not flopped too far to one side.)
Hot Glue Gun Glue or Liquid Nails for projects
Super Glue breaks too easy and doesn't stick.
Don - Specializing in layout DC->DCC conversions
Modeling C&O transition era and steel industries There's Nothing Like Big Steam!
Regardless of glue(s) you prefer, it is invaluable to preserve it so there's no drying out. I put a thin metal rode in the glue hold to prevent the glue from hardening after using. Don't ask me how many glue bottles I tossed since they hardened after not being used in awhile.
wjstix Post resurrected after 17 years! Might be a record?
electroloveWhat glue are you guys using when gluing metal weight inside cars? I do not want the weight to come loose because I can't glue it again when the car is finished (roof glued).