It takes an iron man to play with a toy iron horse.
Casey is right on the mark with ratios (very much the same as I use), but I want to add one additional comment.
Because of the reaction alcohol has on "some" finishes, I also have mixes of Ink and water. They work a bit differently and are not right for every application (lots of water and stripwood don't get along well, for example), but when washing a lacquer finish or where the use of a solvent may attack paint, glue...what ever, the water mix works well.
colvinbackshop wrote: Because of the reaction alcohol has on "some" finishes, I also have mixes of Ink and water. They work a bit differently and are not right for every application (lots of water and stripwood don't get along well, for example), but when washing a lacquer finish or where the use of a solvent may attack paint, glue...what ever, the water mix works well.
This note on alcohol on lacquer finish may explain some of the color leaching that occurred on some of my rocks. I will try water instead of alcohol not my next rock surface.
Sue
Anything is possible if you do not know what you are talking about.
Sue, when you mention "color leaching"; is that a white-ish fogging, hazing type of thing that's going on? If, yes, that is a reaction of the lacquer caused by the alcohol.
It's not a bad way to add some extra weather (a VERY faded boxcar or streaking on a car, for example) after a coat of Dulcoat (lacquer), but can be very disturbing when you get a "look" that you weren't trying for.
BTW, what is the status of the Shay's? I don't want to jump that onto this thread...But I'm wondering. Catch me at the Barn, I'll be there later.
colvinbackshop wrote: Sue, when you mention "color leaching"; is that a white-ish fogging, hazing type of thing that's going on? If, yes, that is a reaction of the lacquer caused by the alcohol.
When you do the bargdon geodesic foam rocks, you spray white lacques paint on the vaseline as a mold release. After 3-4 coats the paint layer seemed to come off in places. Joel did mention diluting with water, but I have done so much with alcohol that it was hard to use water. By the time the vegetation is on the rocks, you really do not notice it, but I know it is there.
Thanks. Sue
Add a few drops of max strenght hairspray into the mix and see what happens...
"Being misunderstood is the fate of all true geniuses"
EXPERIMENTATION TO BRING INNOVATION
http://community.webshots.com/album/288541251nntnEK?start=588
this is a good thead. I am at the point of weathering and needed info on ink washes. Thanks everyone
alco's forever!!!!! Majoring in HO scale Minorig in O scale:)
Sue, if you give the area/s where the unwanted white has appeared a shot of dullcoat the dullcoat will disolve the white residue caused by the original reaction of the alcohol and all will be back to how it was, except of course you will still have the darkening caused by the actual ink.
(as always try it first in an inconspicuous place)
Regards,Karl.A
Sue,
I've found that when alcohol is applied, after Dullcote has been used, then one will see a whitish residue. There is a chemical reaction between Isopropyl Alcohol and dullcote.
Regarding Ink Washes: If I only need a small batch of a light colored wash 8 drops of ink to 1/2 oz of alcohol works for me. If it is too dark, just add some more alcohol.
Wayne
Modeling HO Freelance Logging Railroad.
sfcouple wrote: Sue,I've found that when alcohol is applied, after Dullcote has been used, then one will see a whitish residue. There is a chemical reaction between Isopropyl Alcohol and dullcote. Wayne
This is true IF you put the alcohol on after the dullcoat, the alcohol will react with the dullcoat. However, if you have applied alcohol/ink first, when this is dry the alcohol has evaporated, thus if you then apply the dullcoat there is nothing to react with. Hence my suggestion to Sue.
If you have experienced the white residue due to A&I over dullcoat (and you dont want it), a final spay of dullcoat at the end will remove it.
Karl.A
ukguy wrote: sfcouple wrote: Sue,I've found that when alcohol is applied, after Dullcote has been used, then one will see a whitish residue. There is a chemical reaction between Isopropyl Alcohol and dullcote. Wayne This is true IF you put the alcohol on after the dullcoat, the alcohol will react with the dullcoat. However, if you have applied alcohol/ink first, when this is dry the alcohol has evaporated, thus if you then apply the dullcoat there is nothing to react with. Hence my suggestion to Sue.If you have experienced the white residue due to A&I over dullcoat (and you dont want it), a final spay of dullcoat at the end will remove it.Karl.A
Karl,
You are absolutely correct and I thank you for explaining this phenomena better than I did.
rs2mike wrote:Which is better? Ink washes or paint washes?
It really depends on what you are doing. Raw plaster and raw wood work well with ink washes. Standard weathering of painted surfaces work well with paint washes. Of course there are always exceptions so it is best to experiment some. Every case comes out different. My washes are 10 parts thinning material to 1 part ink or paint. When just getting started with either, test - test - test, before actually using them on something you treasure.
Elmer.
The above is my opinion, from an active and experienced Model Railroader in N scale and HO since 1961.
(Modeling Freelance, Eastern US, HO scale, in 1962, with NCE DCC for locomotive control and a stand alone LocoNet for block detection and signals.) http://waynes-trains.com/ at home, and N scale at the Club.
AggroJones wrote: Add a few drops of max strenght hairspray into the mix and see what happens...
Ah come on man, dont be a tease... what happens? I am always up for a new trick, jut like to have an idea what to expect.
I would be afraid 91%-90 percent alcohol. I have had some bad reactions to certain paints, most notably on older kits such as Rounhouse, MDC, and some old Athearn. 70% works well.
Best Regards, Big John
Kiva Valley Railway- Freelanced road in central Arizona. Visit the link to see my MR forum thread on The Building of the Whitton Branch on the Kiva Valley Railway
canazar wrote: AggroJones wrote: Add a few drops of max strenght hairspray into the mix and see what happens... Ah come on man, dont be a tease... what happens? I am always up for a new trick, jut like to have an idea what to expect.
Dito^
From the far, far reaches of the wild, wild west I am: rtpoteet
loathar wrote: canazar wrote: AggroJones wrote: Add a few drops of max strenght hairspray into the mix and see what happens... Ah come on man, dont be a tease... what happens? I am always up for a new trick, jut like to have an idea what to expect.Dito^
Oh, the wash just smooths out more. Thats all.
canazar wrote: I would be afraid 91%-90 percent alcohol. I have had some bad reactions to certain paints, most notably on older kits such as Rounhouse, MDC, and some old Athearn. 70% works well.
I find it best to stick with the 70% stuff for washes and 90% for removing paint. I tried 90% once because I was out of 70% and the ink didn't mix well with it and it made a mess of a Red Caboose boxcar paint job. Could have been the brand of ink but it was and is fine with the 70%.