Kadee Coupler question.....

[Meyblc]

I just purchased a few packets of Kadee #36 and #38 couplers to replace the couplers on all of my Athearn Genesis F units.

Has anyone ever tried to assemble these things? Specifically the placement of the copper springs? The directions are kind of vague and difficult to follow.

Michael

[jeffrey-wimberly]

I've tried those before and went back to the #5 coupler. I use it for everything.

[Meyblc]

Yeah, I agree............the #5's awesome, but #5's won't fit on the Athearn Genesis F units. The Kadee #36 and #38 are supposed to be the perfect replacements for the factory installed coupler boxes, but I can't figure out those darned tiny springs....

[frisco1519]

Have you tried the Kadee "whisker" yet? They are number 148. They are like a number 5 but you do not need the centering spring. The whisker has two very stiff wires on either side to keep it centered. They are great and I have been using them lately. Like the others though, I used number 5's on all of my F7's

[jeffrey-wimberly]

I've been thinking about have my LHS order some whiskers for me.

[nedthomas]

I installed #5 on my units with no problem. Use a #46 on the front of the "A" unit. Instructions of the #30 series should be in the package the couplers came in.

[frisco1519]

Jeffery if you every buy any of the new Athearn RTR 85' flats with the trailers on them and want to change to Kadees's, a number 5 will not fit correctly. With the centering spring and coupler it is to snug a fit. The coupler will not move. The whisker works great and solved the problem. I use a lot of them now and wi***hey would make bulk packs.

[Meyblc]

Well, let me ask this....

I know that the #5's are great. I use them on almost all of my rolling stock and most of my engines, but the Athearn Genesis come from Athearn with a coupler box that won't hold a #5 and the brass centering piece. Can you purchase a seperate coupler box from Kadee that will hold the #5?

[jeffrey-wimberly]

A draft gear box. It comes with the #5's and can be pruchased separately.

[TomDiehl]

The answer to the original question is that the flat part of the spring goes against the metal of the loco frame. Then the coupler drops in and you snap the cover on. The reason Kadee doesn't recommend the #5 for this installation is the #5 (and 40 series) couplers are metal and will conduct electricity. Double heading engines gives the potential of a short through the couplers. The #36 and #38 are both centerset heads with different shank lengths. The Kadee website gives a good description of the different offsets and shank lengths for the different couplers:

http://www.kadee.com/htmbord/page25a.htm

As always, after installation, check the coupler and trip pin height with the gauge. You may need to substitute one of the offset head types to get it right.

frisco1519: if you have trouble with the coupler pocket clearance, the tabs that stick down from the spring can be clipped off for a bit more clearance. Also, the Athearn metal coupler pocket cover is notorious for having a rough edge where the coupler sticks out. File this smooth before installation. Also, check the edge of the plastic pocket for flash and remove if necessary.

And yes, you can buy the box separately (they used to come with all but the bulk packs)

http://www.kadee.com/htmbord/page148.htm

[Meyblc]

Tom,

Thanks for the detailed explanation. I will give it a try again.

I usually purchase my #5's in a bulk pack but they don't come with the coupler boxes. Just the couplers, brass springs and centering springs.

[TomDiehl]

QUOTE: Originally posted by Meyblc

Tom,

Thanks for the detailed explanation. I will give it a try again.

I usually purchase my #5's in a bulk pack but they don't come with the coupler boxes. Just the couplers, brass springs and centering springs.

The coupler boxes that came with the #36's and #38's would be the same as you need for the #5's.

[frisco1519]

QUOTE: Originally posted by TomDiehl

.

frisco1519: if you have trouble with the coupler pocket clearance, the tabs that stick down from the spring can be clipped off for a bit more clearance. Also, the Athearn metal coupler pocket cover is notorious for having a rough edge where the coupler sticks out. File this smooth before installation. Also, check the edge of the plastic pocket for flash and remove if necessary.

And yes, you can buy the box separately (they used to come with all but the bulk packs)

http://www.kadee.com/htmbord/page148.htm

Tom,
Thanks for the help. That 85' flat car is the only one I have had problems with installing a number five and the centering spring. Everyone in our club has had the same problem. I have four more that I purchased yesterday and I will check the couple box a little closer before I install a Kadee.
Thank you,
George

[TomDiehl]

QUOTE: Originally posted by frisco1519

QUOTE: Originally posted by TomDiehl

.

frisco1519: if you have trouble with the coupler pocket clearance, the tabs that stick down from the spring can be clipped off for a bit more clearance. Also, the Athearn metal coupler pocket cover is notorious for having a rough edge where the coupler sticks out. File this smooth before installation. Also, check the edge of the plastic pocket for flash and remove if necessary.

And yes, you can buy the box separately (they used to come with all but the bulk packs)

http://www.kadee.com/htmbord/page148.htm

Tom,
Thanks for the help. That 85' flat car is the only one I have had problems with installing a number five and the centering spring. Everyone in our club has had the same problem. I have four more that I purchased yesterday and I will check the couple box a little closer before I install a Kadee.
Thank you,
George

Another thing that's a real pain in the butt with these 85' flats is that swinging coupler mount (at least they had it years ago when I got mine). After a few years, they droop and the couplers don't line up any more. There is a simple modification you do to the ends to keep it from drooping, if you have that problem, let me know.

[Don Gibson]

THE 30's series couplers are bears to assemble - but assemble the do, and WORK.

The instructions show you HOW. I went through almost a packet of springs before mastering it. THe trick is seating the centering spring. I recommend an extra packet of springs while you are learning. They're fragile.

[Meyblc]

Ok.......I brought these couplers to work today and one of my coworkers was able to help me figure it out. Now I feel kind of stupid because it really isn't that difficult once you get the hang of it.

Thanks to everyone for your help.

Michael

[Don Gibson]

Congatulations Mike. You have become a MODELER.

The KD 30 series is my favorite coupler for passenger cars. It also has two height positions. KD recommends the #36 /38 for 22" radius (4X8's). If you have wider, #38 /33's preserve the close spacing. (26"r. and #6 turnouts).

I doubt you will become one of those that thinks the #5 'flat' spring "difficult"

[bogp40]

QUOTE: Originally posted by Meyblc

Ok.......I brought these couplers to work today and one of my coworkers was able to help me figure it out. Now I feel kind of stupid because it really isn't that difficult once you get the hang of it.

Thanks to everyone for your help.

Michael

One good hint on assembly for the spring: once you have successfully untangled the spring using tweezers and haven't done any damage place the spring with the help of the tweezers and hold in position w/ the tip of an Xacto blade as you position the lid. Correct orientation of (lid on top or bottom) determinines the height. See the chart in the instructions. Once the coupler is installed, I use a minute amount of CA dabbbed on the side lugs w/ a toothpick. I have numerous 30's pre built and ready to install- they will stay assembled this way. They are not too diffiucult once you get the hang of them.
The 30 series is about the best operating and self centering of any I have used.
Bob K.