Hand Spiking into Pine - bad experience.

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Paul3

Member since
May 2002
From: Massachusetts
2,899 posts

Posted by Paul3 on Sunday, February 19, 2006 3:47 PM

CARRfan,
Ok, I think I see where I was confused. See, the spline we're using at my club is only for the subroadbed...to which we nail the pine roadbed to. Our subroadbed spline is 3/4" high by about 1/4" - 5/16", our roadbed is 1/4" by 1 1/2". By using 3/4" spline, we're able to use the outside of the 1"x stock to keep the subroadbed true and (mostly) square.

I would not use spline for the actual roadbed itself. Just use it to hold up the pine roadbed.

BTW, our spline is very strong yet lightweight...something that I know mechanical engineers appreciate. [:)]

Also, listen to Bob above...he really knows his carpentry. I've seen him rip 1" stock by hand with a worm drive circular saw by eye better than I can with a table saw...it's scary. [;)]

Paul A. Cutler III
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Weather Or No Go New Haven
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Anonymous

Member since
April 2003
305,205 posts

Posted by Anonymous on Sunday, February 19, 2006 11:17 PM

Paul3, I totally hear you. You're using spline for subroadbed, and 1/4" x 1.5" for roadbed, making cuts in it to allow bending the roadbed.

Michael Tylick demonstrated using 1/4" square stock to create roadbed that he spiked track into - this was laid on top of plywood. I then also found the same thing in Linn Westcott's old book. If you use stuff that's thick enough, it could be both the roadbed and subroadbed.

Michael Tylick mentioned soaking the wood in one of his articles, which makes sense after busting a few pieces in the garage while trying to bend them.

So, the experimentation shall continue!

It's great hearing how others have successfully done some of this stuff.

A key thing you mentioned in one of your recent posts was that your club has a planer for doing the turnout intersections. Very cool.

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Anonymous

Member since
April 2003
305,205 posts

Posted by Anonymous on Friday, February 24, 2006 3:35 PM

Alright, I finally made it back to the lumberyard.

I bought a 4 x 8 sheet of 3/16" thick Lauan plywood. That, plus the tie thickness is just about exactly the length of the spikes. This stuff seems perfect! It spikes quite nicely.

Hopefully over the weekend I'll get some rail-laying experimenting going.

The one downside is I'll have to use the cookie-cutter method, which isn't 100% efficient in terms of material use. The upside is all my turnouts will be able to be built on one solid base without joints, etc.

Wish me luck!!!