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Is it a steam thing?

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  • Member since
    October 2003
  • From: oregon
  • 885 posts
Posted by oleirish on Wednesday, August 31, 2005 8:20 PM
QUOTE: Originally posted by twhite

QUOTE: Originally posted by oleirish

QUOTE: Originally posted by twhite

QUOTE: Originally posted by oleirish

Jarrell
Check and see if the engine is powered half on frame and half on tender(wire between tender and engine)my new mike is that way and I'am looking at putting wripers on the left side of the engine and removeing the tender power all togethor.I'am running D.C. right now so don't have a big problem , but if I go DCC then I might.[^][8D]

JIM

Jim--rather than remove your tender pickup, I'd suggest you replace the Mantua tender wheels with appropriate NWSL nickel-silver wheels. THEN install Tomar track wipers on both locomotive AND tender--it's easy to do with a drill and tap--and you'll be amazed at what a smooth runner you end up with. I'm in the process of converting all of my older brass and metal steamers to Tomar wipers, and the difference in running quality is just amazing!
Tom [:p]


Tom I'am with you but there is'nt a whole lot of space between the drivers and the frame,I'am looking at this real hard,tender no problem,re-build on the list of things to do.
I've got every thing I need for It.If you do a mantua mike let me know please??
Thanks
JIM

Jim--though I've had a Mantua Mike, it's been a long time ago. However, believe it or not, there's plenty of space between the wheels to install a Tomar. I've installed them on brass imports that not only have closer wheel spacing, but brake-shoe castings to boot, and the Tomar's will 'float' just fine. With the Mantua, I'd suggest you mount it between the first and second drivers (I'm assuming that your middle two drivers are 'blind', as most Mantua Mikes are) using a drill and tap on the frame cover. The phospour bronze 'slide' on the Tomar is very flexible, and will adjust itself against the wheel treads while you're running the loco. Beleive me, they're made to fit almost ANY wheel spacing. But I DEFINITELY suggest replacing those Mantua tender wheels--they're brass, and brass collects track crud like crazy. Even just replacing the tender wheels with appropriately sized nickel-silver will improve your pickup about 50%.
Tom [:)]

Ok I tackled it today on the engine,more space than I throught at first glance,but used the rear driver and blind,works fine can run with out the tender at the present,the wheel swap on the tender is my next project,This engine has cast three axle trucks,not sure how to change them out,but I'll get it,I have some old passenger truck wheels that will work.
Thanks for all the help
Jim
  • Member since
    January 2002
  • From: Canada, eh!
  • 737 posts
Posted by Isambard on Thursday, September 1, 2005 8:21 AM
QUOTE: Originally posted by jacon12

Being completely electric illiterate, let me ask you guys this. Is there a way, perhaps with a meter of some sort, that you can place the 'probes' of the meter to different areas of the track and see if there are bad voltage drops? That sure would answer one part of the equation and if it wasn't a voltage drop you could go on looking for another answer.
JaRRell



To check track voltage I use a Sperry multimeter, set on DC setting for DC power and on AC setting for DCC power. You will get an approximate reading when measuring DCC, around 12-15 volts depending on your meter and the O/HO/N gauge setting on your DCC Command Station/Booster, if there is one. You can find multimeters in the electrical section of big box hardwares or in places like Radio Shack.

[:)]

Isambard

Grizzly Northern history, Tales from the Grizzly and news on line at  isambard5935.blogspot.com 

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