Help With Adhesives

[Anonymous]

I just returned from a hobby shop, (which seems to cater only to RC cars) more confused about glue than when I started. I want to glue together a cheap model and a boxcar to learn the process, gain some experience, etc. Can someone give me the simple skinny on the brands of glue and intended uses? What works best where and why so to speak.
Thanks all.

[dknelson]

For plastic models I use Testors for plastic models which I am sure you can get at your shop. There is a liquid and a semi-liquid gel and I tend to get both. I apply the liquid using a small brush and apply the gel using a toothpick so that only a small amount is on the parts to be joined. Work in a well ventilated place and don't work too long around glues, even if they say they are safe.

Some modelers like the Plastruct glues and welding glues. Others use ACC for everything. I have had mixed success with ACC. Walthers Goo is very effective and sticky but hard to control.

Keep all glues off the painted surfaces because they will mar them and make sure the joints to be glued have had all paint scratched off them.
Dave Nelson

[Anonymous]

read this Model Railroader artical on Plastic Adhesives

[Fergmiester]

I'm big on Cyanoacrolyte (CA) a.k.a. crazy glue, as it sets quickly, is strong and water proof. However it has down sides to it. If you let it get out of control then you've made a mess out of it. It can also cloud up surfaces if the fumes become trapped. It comes in different setting times and thicknesses.

I also use Microscale Styrene cement. It is also very good and cements styrene but nothing else. The microscale stuff is non-toxic, which to me is a bonus.

Fergie

[Anonymous]

QUOTE: Originally posted by Fergmiester

I'm big on Cyanoacrolyte (CA) a.k.a. crazy glue, as it sets quickly, is strong and water proof. However it has down sides to it. If you let it get out of control then you've made a mess out of it. It can also cloud up surfaces if the fumes become trapped. It comes in different setting times and thicknesses.

A friend of mine once told me that dried CA loses its adhesive property over a few years (can't remember the exact number) and that pieces start falling off. I hope he's not right, since I've cemented quite a few structures together with it.

BTW, once you open a new container, you should probably plan on using it up within a month, otherwise its performance degrades.

[gvdobler]

I built a model RC airplane in 1977 with CA glue. The plane is a biplane with 74" wingspan and weighs about 20 lbs. A lot of stress is generated when flying. I still fly the plane now and then, so if CA comes apart I have yet to see it.

CA comes in thin to thick degrees. Thin is better for plastic. Also, do not use a "kicker" with plastic, as it leaves a white residue. A kicker is used to dry CA quickly.

Jon - Las Vegas

[AntonioFP45]

Ken, JnM..........

Could very likely be that using CA that's old will likely yield those results.

One critical factor in the durability of CA or any other Adhesive:
SURFACE PREPARATION. Like painting, glueing is 95% preparation.

After scuffing the surfaces or if you already have porous surfaces on the items being glued, it is absolutely important that they are CLEANED! For some surfaces, soap & water is not enough. Prep cleaners due a great job in removing oil and silicone residues. For resin kits, mold release agents must be used.

CA is notorious for poor adhesion if there is even the smallest amount of oil on surfaces. This is why some modelers experience parts falling off after a considerable time period.

Our hands are often a source of trouble. A few tiny drops of sweat can ruin a job. Human sweat contains traces of silicone. This is why some professional modelers use gloves to avoid contamination.

I've taken the little shortcuts before of rushing, not cleaning or "partially cleaning" surfaces and later paid the price! I even ruined a brand new locomotive shell.

Hope this helps!