Quite a while ago the paint manufacturers came out with rattle can paints that would spray at any angle including upside down. To me, that feature has limited usefullness and the downside is you can't clear the nozzle and cap by turning the can upside down and spraying for a few seconds until nothing but air comes out. As a result, rattle can paints, particularly Rustoleum and Krylon, often clog up and become useless with still half a can or more of paint left in them.
I have discovered a solution for both brands. For Rustoleum, I found replacement caps on Amazon.
Amazon.com: 10 Pack Rusto Female Fat caps Graffiti Art Supplies Spray Paint Tips
These come in different sized packages. I bought one with 20 caps. While that aren't shaped like the Rustoleum caps, they do fit the nozzles. I first tried it on a can of Rustoleum camo paint. After giving it a thorough shaking I put one of the Rusto caps on the nozzle. At first, a thick gunk came oozing out of the cap. I wiped that away, checked to make sure the cap was clear, than gave the can another thorough shaking. In no time I had a fine mist spraying. Although I haven't tried it yet, I believe Valspar uses the same kind of cap as Rustoleum so it's possible the caps would work on those too.
I have a different solution for Krylon. I discovered their caps are interchangeable with Scalecoat cans and those cans can still be cleared by turning the can upside down. For cans that already have clogged caps, I borrow a cap from a can of Scalecoat that I don't think I am going to use again and am able to use cans of Krylon that had become clogged. When I'm done, I return the cap to the Scalecoat can and clear it by turning the can upside down and spraying until clear air comes out. For Krylon cans that still work, I make sure they continue to work by swapping the cap onto the Scalecoat can after finishing the task at hand. I use the Scalecoat can to clear the cap and then return it to the Krylon can.
I've already rescued 3 Rustoleum cans and one Krylon can and I know I have about five more than could possibly be saved.
If the stem of the nozzle has become clogged, swapping caps might not help but if it is an issue of a clogged cap, swapping caps could be the answer.
Here is something else to try. Make sure the spray valve is clear or a new one installed. Warm the can under the hot water tap. I don't go above a heat level that is too hot to the touch and shake often. This sometimes will soften that obnoxious clog. I also give the can a couple of moderately hard hits on a hard floor on the bottom rim of the can. Repeat shaking and hitting routine a couple of times. I've gotten lucky and saved a few cans that otherwise would have gotten tossed out. When all else fails I use a 9mm can opener. Noisy but satisfying.
Mark B.
John-NYBWI have discovered a solution for both brands.
Hi John,
Thank you for that very useful information! My rattle cans tend to sit for a long time between uses. I have always turned the cans upside down to clear the nozzles, but as you point out, that doesn't work for a lot of the newer products.
Cheers!!
Dave
I'm just a dude with a bad back having a lot of fun with model trains, and finally building a layout!
Thanks for the tip (pun intended). I've tried solvents but nothing seems to dissolve a clog.
Terry
You can clear most nossels with a fine wire.
rrebellYou can clear most nossels with a fine wire.
The most recent ones I've encountered aren't so easy to "poke clean" like the older Krylon type was.
There is kind of a plastic "swirl" piece right behind the opening plus the actual nozzle insert is pressed in with the intention of never coming out.
I've tried placing the clogged nozzles in an ultrasonic cleaner with limited results. Sometimes I gather them together in a jar of lacquer thinner. This sometimes works. I rarely toss a can out without prying off the nozzle to save it "just in case".
One of the worst things you can do with an aerosol paint can is not mix the solids, settled at the bottom of the can, which then forces the pigment into the dip tube and completely cloggs it inside the can.
Shake, shake, then shake some more. Even then it may not be enough. I store many of my aerosol cans on their side. This gives the solids (pigment) more area to spread out and makes remixing a little more effective.
Good Luck, Ed
rrebell You can clear most nossels with a fine wire.
I usually use a plain straight pin. They're stiffer than wire, have a pointed tip, and there's no insulation to strip off first.
It takes an iron man to play with a toy iron horse.
I seem to have the worst luck (clog related that is) with the Painters Touch line of rattle can paints.
Dave Nelson
gmpullman Shake, shake, then shake some more. Even then it may not be enough. I store many of my aerosol cans on their side. This gives the solids (pigment) more area to spread out and makes remixing a little more effective. Good Luck, Ed
This falls under the category of "an ounce of prevention". I learned this lesson the hard way even before I discovered the caps that could be swapped. If the directions say shake for one minute, I do it for two. Getting the paint thoroughly mixed will eliminate some clogs, but not all. That's a great tip storing the cans on their sides. The pigment won't all settle to the bottom and should make it easier to mix the next time you use the can.
John-NYBWThat's a great tip storing the cans on their sides.
Of course it may not be prcatical to store all of 'em on their sides but if I may have a painting session in the near future I'll grab the cans I might want and give them a turn or two while I'm prepping other things, then set them on their sides for a while. Seems to make them easier to shake up.
I've used the hot water trick, too. Mainly for more "mission critical" jobs and, of course, any rolling stock, brass or finer model structures will always be painted with an airbrush.
gmpullman John-NYBW That's a great tip storing the cans on their sides. Of course it may not be prcatical to store all of 'em on their sides but if I may have a painting session in the near future I'll grab the cans I might want and give them a turn or two while I'm prepping other things, then set them on their sides for a while. Seems to make them easier to shake up. I've used the hot water trick, too. Mainly for more "mission critical" jobs and, of course, any rolling stock, brass or finer model structures will always be painted with an airbrush. Good Luck, Ed
John-NYBW That's a great tip storing the cans on their sides.
I never could get the hang of the airbrush. I made several attempts but never could get it right. Finally I gave up and switched to rattle cans for everything. I figured if it was good enough for George Selios, it's good enough for me. I've gotten this far without the airbrush and figure I can complete my layout without one.
What I found that works in salvaging rattle can nozzles, especially Rustoleum with the fat nozzles, is CRC Electronic cleaner. Just remove the nozzle after using, and give the outside/inside a quick spray. It removes the paint and dries very quickly. It's available at Walmart in the brake and engine cleaner section at $4.97 a can. It comes with a small spray hose.
Marlon
See pictures of the Clinton-Golden Valley RR