I am pretty much out of my old spool of Radio Shack solder I bought at least 10 years ago.
.
I ordered another spool from Grainger, but they are marked differently.
One says 60/40, and the other is labled 40/60.
Did I get the wrong Tin/Lead ratio?
-Kevin
Living the dream.
SeeYou190....One says 60/40, and the other is labled 40/60. . Did I get the wrong Tin/Lead ratio?
I wouldn't worry about it. It's likely made in China, and we all know that everything there is upside-down to what it is on this side of the globe. I'd guess that would include the ratios, too. That ratio is likely lead/tin, rather than tin/lead.
Wayne
Yes, I agree with Mel. I Googled the company right away. I guess they went off the USA with the label The company sells different formulas.
Rich
If you ever fall over in public, pick yourself up and say “sorry it’s been a while since I inhabited a body.” And just walk away.
I have been playing with the new solder, and it is the wrong stuff... dang it, I guess I am out $25.00. It definitely melts at a higher temperature, and does not connect to track very well.
Oh well.
I have been using Cardas Eutectic silver solder for many years. Goes from liquid to solid very fast compared to any other solder. No special temp reqirements. I have been using a Weller WLC-100 soldering station with plated tips.
Used in high end audio equipment last I heard.
One quarter pound is about thirty eight dollars. Even sold on ebay, of course, everything is sold on ebay. lol
I bought a one pound roll quite a few years ago for thirty five dollars.
Goolge Cardas audio solder.
SeeYou190 I have been playing with the new solder, and it is the wrong stuff... dang it, I guess I am out $25.00. It definitely melts at a higher temperature, and does not connect to track very well. -Kevin
It shouldn't be that big a difference I'd think. I tried to do a bit of research and most of what I found was aimed at artisans who work in stained glass. Those folks place a higher value on tensile strength (greater tin content) and working time than we would demand for track wiring purposes, I'd think. At least some "internet experts" however did suggest that you use a different flux with 60/40 versus 40/60, quite apart from whatever might be in the rosin core.
Before you spend yet more money on solder it might be worth while exploring a different flux.
Dave Nelson
Kevin,
Check out Oatey Rosin core solder........
40/60 alloy rosin core solder has a melting range of 361f-460f not good for electrical work. 40tin/60lead
60/40 alloy rosin core solder has a melting range of 361-375f used in electrical work.60tin/40lead
Or use a silver bearing solder paste with flux mixed in with the paste......My preferred way.
Take Care!
Frank
if you havent ordered yet, you may want to consider 63/37 solder ...it melts and freezes at a consistent temperature, which 60/40 does not, the 60/40 does vary a bit where the individual parts solidify ...
the 63/37 is usually very little more than the 60/40, if not the same in some cases.... a quarter pound [100 gm] is usually around 4-5$ on auction sites, and elsewhere
63/37 also melts at a fairly low temperature of 183 degrees celsius
wvg_cathe 63/37 is usually very little more than the 60/40
I just ordered a spool of 63/37 rosin core. I will update when it arrives.
Thank you.
the 63/37 is nice solder, it hardens up shiney, not dull grey ..
i just ordered two 100 gram spools .. 4.11 and 4.90 canadian [from china]
The 63/37 solder arrived today. It made quite a difference.
Thank you for yuour help with this one.
glad we could help, that's part of what the forums are for
5 days from China? They must like Canadians better, except for the ones they arrest.
Henry
COB Potomac & Northern
Shenandoah Valley
I did not order from China.
I bought a made in USA brand from a USA seller (in New York). It is Kester brand solder. I am very happy with it. The one pound spool should last quite a while.
I'll look for it. 50 or 100 grams solder doesn't mean anything to me. 1lb ought to be enough. China doesn't need anymore of my money either. My wifes hypertensive drug made in China just go recalled for having carcinogens mixed it.
100 grams is just under a quarter pound, 454 grams to a pound ..
lasts quite a while, especially after rails are done, lol
no one seemed to mention this...but wouldn't the actual diameter of the solder also effect the melting properties as well...smaller diameter , quicker solid to liquid?
Slightly. The thermal mass of the tip has a bigger effect. Think of it as inertia for the heat. If there is a high thermal mass, there is a lot of heat to transfer without lowering the temperature. Big ot small solder, big or small wire, it will have no problem. Low thermal mass, and there is less heat available to transfer before the tip cools too far.
One web site likes to evaluate soldering irons by using a big copper heat sink, and attempting to solder wires to it. A high enough thermal mass iron has no problem passing this tortoure test. One with a low thermal mass, thing happen liek the tip soldering itself ot the heat sink, or the wire ends up in a blob os solder that is not actually adhered to the heat sink and just pulls off, like if you melt solder and drop it on your workbench. You get a splash pattern that isn't actually attached to the bench in any way.
It's more the thermal mass of the materials you are soldering that the size of the solder itself - the size of the solder is more important when it comes to the size of a solder bead you get. You cna always blob up thinner solder to make a fatter blob, but it's much harder to get a very fine line of solder from the bigger diameter solder. Which can be important in things like solering rail, or feeders to the rail. I don;t use my fine solder, for example, to solder feeders to the bus wire. It works just fine - but I have to keep feeding to get the correct volume of solder, and with only 2 hands that cna get tough. The larger diameter solder provides more molten solder per unit length of the solder wire, so the joint gets filled in that much faster. Better to err on the small side, as you can use the smallest stuff for bigger joints, it's just a pain. Correct tool for the job, like most things, makes it go quicker and easier.
--Randy
Modeling the Reading Railroad in the 1950's
Visit my web site at www.readingeastpenn.com for construction updates, DCC Info, and more.
dbduck no one seemed to mention this...but wouldn't the actual diameter of the solder also effect the melting properties as well...smaller diameter , quicker solid to liquid?
Not really.
The melt and freeze points are all about the alloy. Both tin and lead have higher melt points than a tin/lead alloy used for solder.
Thin gauge solder just makes it easier to control the amount, especially when trying to solder ICs or other electronic devices in a small space. Much harder to control with a heavy gauge solder.
I've had success getting solder from HD. They have an end cap at the local store with various solder stuff. You have to watch that area to avoid getting soldering that plumbers use.