I have an older P2K SD60 with factory DCC, I want to change the decoder to a sound decoder. I would like to know how to remove the shell. It's a nice loco and don't want to tear it up. Thanks in advance.
Hi,
If it is the same as mine you would remove four screws, one at each coupler box, then pull boxes out through the pilot, then two more screws between the rear truck and fuel tank.
The shell will then lift off fairly easily.
Good Luck, Ed
Along with what Ed has said, take the fuel tank off, there might be a couple of screws hidden, according to what HOSeeker shows.
Mike
My You Tube
mbinsewiAlong with what Ed has said, take the fuel tank off, there might be a couple of screws hidden, according to what HOSeeker shows.
You have a valid point, Mike!
Wouldn't 'ya know... I was looking at my SD50! The fuel tank is a little shorter (on the Chessie System 8550 anyway) and the screws are exposed by the rear truck.
Be careful with the fuel tank. In most cases they are stuck on with the world's strongest double-stick tape! It takes some careful prying to get it to release.
Don't remove the larger brass screws, they hold the weight to the frame.
Cheers, Ed
It didn't go as I wanted it to. I removed coupler screws and couplers. There was a screw under the coupler box, I removed them. I removed two screws by the rear truck. The shell didn't budge. I attempted to remove the fuel tank to look for hidden screws and broke a piece off the truck and decided time to quit. Then I broke the MU hose re-installing coupler box. But it was a learning experience.
This is my first visit to this topic.
I just went into my Secret Stash of old stuff. I dug out an Oakway P2K SD60. New in the box.
You don't have to take off the fuel tank.
You remove the coupler boxes and take out the two screw near the front of the rear truck. That is all that is officially holding the body on.
The air tanks and piping are part of the body assembly. It is not at all difficult to break them off.
I have never assembled or disassembled these engines, so I'm not informed on what can go wrong. Not unusual around here.
Ed
7j43kYou remove the coupler boxes and take out the two screw near the front of the rear truck. That is all that is officially holding the body on.
I agree.
I was going to post some photos but TCS has done it for me:
http://www.tcsdcc.com/Customer_Content/Installation_Pictures/HO_Scale/Life_Like/Proto_2000_SD_60%20Special%20Edition/LL8/Proto%202000%20SD%2060.html
As I mentioned in my first reply, Four screws. Two for the coupler boxes, two through the frame at the rear truck.
As Ed points out, be careful of those air reservoirs — and when you add the decoder and speaker, be sure to allow room for the two bosses inside the shell where they nest inside the weight.
Good Luck, Again, Ed
Thanks...I'm going to try it again, maybe I wasn't holding my mouth right. I will let you know what happens on episode two.