hon30critterMike, I totally agree! I bought the Reboxx tuner and it is useless as far as I'm concerned. It is far too short to do the job.
I must have a Reboxx Version I (I've had it since they were first available, 20 years ago?)
IMG_0350_W by Edmund, on Flickr
I keep it in the original box and hang it on a hook. It is probably the ONE tool I know where to find
As you can see it is equal in length to a common HO axle size. Does anyone have the Micro Mark one to compare lengths to?
IMG_0353_W by Edmund, on Flickr
I'm still not planning to make one—
Cheers, Ed
gmpullmanAs you can see it is equal in length to a common HO axle size. Does anyone have the Micro Mark one to compare lengths to?
Hi Ed:
I can't find my Reboxx tuner to measure it. All I can say is that when I tried to use it I was immediately disappointed with how it worked (or more accurately - didn't work). I had to squeeze the sideframes so hard to get any sort of cutting action that I thought I was going to ruin the trucks. Maybe I just don't understand how to use it, but I'm not normally a dummy when it comes to using tools (that's not to say that I may be a dummy in many other regards!).
Here is my take on the Reboxx truck tuner:
- it doesn't work!
- it is poorly designed!
- it is unnessary in most cases! (or at least I haven't had any situations where a truck tuner would seem to be necessary).
Oh, I can just feel the flack comming my way now!!
Dave
I'm just a dude with a bad back having a lot of fun with model trains, and finally building a layout!
I use the Micro Mark tuner and it works well.
But I always have to wonder why the manufacturers cannot do the reaming before putting the car in the box. Truck reaming by the consumer should not have to be a required step before putting the car on the layout.
Rich
Alton Junction
richhotrainBut I always have to wonder why the manufacturers cannot do the reaming before putting the car in the box. Truck reaming by the consumer should not have to be a required step before putting the car on the layout. Rich
Perhaps they have with the newer RTR cars since they need no tuning up,well at lest none of mine did?
As far as I can recall there never was a requirement stating you had to fine tune your trucks unless I wasn't informed of this newest requirement which might be a good possibility?
To be honest the only reason I bought a tuner in the first place was to improve the rollability of my BB,Roundhouse and Accurail cars. I sold those off to a train show dealer. I like the newer higher tier RTR cars much better.
Larry
Conductor.
Summerset Ry.
"Stay Alert, Don't get hurt Safety First!"
I also have the Micro Mark tuner and have found it to work as advertised.
I've used it on older MDC and other cars, especially those with metal trucks. But the recently produced models (and most all old Athearn) are just fine as is.
ENJOY !
Mobilman44
Living in southeast Texas, formerly modeling the "postwar" Santa Fe and Illinois Central
Ed, I don't have a tool like your's, but I measured the Reboxx I have with a ruler that is in 1/64's, and the tuner I have measures 57/64, not to drag this on any more, and the packaging was a very small zip lock bag. I bought it as advertised, and HO scale truck tuner. Maybe it's for an HO narrow gage? I dunno. I don't even remeber where I bought it.
The Micro Mark I have is just a "smidgin" ( I think everyone has a ruler that measures in "smidgins") over 1".
Mike
My You Tube
Just found one on Amazon for $22 including shipping which sure beats Micro Mark. It doesn't state the length so no sure from which company it may have originated.
Ed,
I'm not entirely sure which one I purchased (Reboxx?) but the overall length measures 1.033" with a pair of calipers...
richhotrainTruck reaming by the consumer should not have to be a required step before putting the car on the layout. Rich
Rich,
I rarely need to tune the trucks on my rolling stock - even with kits. For the occasional offending truck, however, it is nice to have the right tool for the right job.
Tom
https://tstage9.wixsite.com/nyc-modeling
Time...It marches on...without ever turning around to see if anyone is even keeping in step.
I'll have to check when I get home, and hope my digital caliper has good batteries.
No, tuning up the trucks has never been a requirement, just oen of those things that helps get the absolute best performance out of your rollign stock. That's great the latest RTR equipment is in better shape out of the box, but I have very little of that, because so many new production cars are for modern era which I have no interest in, plus I prefer a kit whenever I can find them - hence lots of Accurail and old BB kits in my fleet.
--Randy
Modeling the Reading Railroad in the 1950's
Visit my web site at www.readingeastpenn.com for construction updates, DCC Info, and more.
rrinkerNo, tuning up the trucks has never been a requirement, just oen of those things that helps get the absolute best performance out of your rollign stock.
That's good news..I feared I missed a new hobby directive.
For years my standard tune up was replacing Roundhouse trucks with Athearn since they were smooth rollers from the package.
The problem started when I changed from plastic wheels to P2K metal wheels and that's why I bought the tuner and I then tried IM wheel sets and ended up replacing all the P2K wheels due to their superior rollibility over the P2K..
After losing the second tuner and seeing the higher price for a replacement I decided to make one from a small Phillips head screw driver.
my Micro Mark tuner measures 1.015"
my InterMountain wheels measure 1.002"
both at same temperature
greg - Philadelphia & Reading / Reading
I made my own, but I have machine tools in my workshop. I just modified a single flute 60 degree countersink. I ground a 60 degree point on the opposite end to the appropriate length. The length of the tuner really is not super critical, because plastic trucks are quite flexible and can be squeezed together with minimal pressure if your tuner is a bit shorter than your axle.
BRAKIE rrinker No, tuning up the trucks has never been a requirement, just oen of those things that helps get the absolute best performance out of your rollign stock. That's good news..I feared I missed a new hobby directive. For years my standard tune up was replacing Roundhouse trucks with Athearn since they were smooth rollers from the package. The problem started when I changed from plastic wheels to P2K metal wheels and that's why I bought the tuner and I then tried IM wheel sets and ended up replacing all the P2K wheels due to their superior rollibility over the P2K.. After losing the second tuner and seeing the higher price for a replacement I decided to make one from a small Phillips head screw driver.
rrinker No, tuning up the trucks has never been a requirement, just oen of those things that helps get the absolute best performance out of your rollign stock.
With the truck tuner, the P2K wheels in Athearn trucks (or Accurail trucks) roll as well as any. Back before Walthers bought Life Like, you could get the P2K wheels from Modeltrainstuff for like $6 a pack, a huge discount compared to what others sold them for, and way cheaper than other brands. The truck tuner back then was maybe $12 or so, not $20, and considering I bought several gross of P2K wheels, the cost of the tuner tool was quickly recovered in the use of the less expensive wheels.
OK, so I went and bought a new calipers. This is the Reboxx tuner that dave and I mention in our post about it being to short.
Inch scale:
In mm scale:
This is the Micro Mark that I bought and use, because the Reboxx was too short:
inch scale:
This new calipers is cool! I've been measuring everything.
Mike.
Seems to be a little misunderstanding about the tuning tool, particularly from the people who are modifying drills. The idea of the truck tuner is to condition the bearing cone molded into a plastic sideframe. We routinely clean tiny threads of plastic out of there when checking trucks, as well as blown-in paint and attempts at lubrication.
What you DO NOT WANT is a cutting edge that makes the cone deeper, because the pin-point axles need to be centered in the cones on either side. Cutting the cone deeper makes the truck sag down over the axle, adding drag and lowering the coupler height.
InterMountain wheelsets have a narrower axle tip and this is why they can work well in many trucks (like Accurail) without tuning the cone -- they will never touch that part of the sideframe. Reboxx axles are identical to IM, with the exception of being selected for more precise axle widths. They have a chart on their website to tell you what width is best for different mfr's trucks.
We "grease" truck sideframes by spinning the tip of an art supply store graphite pencil in them. The wipe-off from the pencil stays in place longer than sprayed powder.
Graham LineSeems to be a little misunderstanding about the tuning tool, particularly from the people who are modifying drills. The idea of the truck tuner is to condition the bearing cone molded into a plastic sideframe. We routinely clean tiny threads of plastic out of there when checking trucks, as well as blown-in paint and attempts at lubrication.
Either way requires no force just a twist or two applied lightly and the burrs and the bearing should be smooth...No need to add lots of pressure.
My home made contraption works quite well but,after selling my old BB,Roundhouse and Accurail cars off I find very little use for it since the higher quality cars need no tuning at least none of mine did...