Graham LineSeems to be a little misunderstanding about the tuning tool, particularly from the people who are modifying drills. The idea of the truck tuner is to condition the bearing cone molded into a plastic sideframe. We routinely clean tiny threads of plastic out of there when checking trucks, as well as blown-in paint and attempts at lubrication.
Either way requires no force just a twist or two applied lightly and the burrs and the bearing should be smooth...No need to add lots of pressure.
My home made contraption works quite well but,after selling my old BB,Roundhouse and Accurail cars off I find very little use for it since the higher quality cars need no tuning at least none of mine did...
Larry
Conductor.
Summerset Ry.
"Stay Alert, Don't get hurt Safety First!"
Seems to be a little misunderstanding about the tuning tool, particularly from the people who are modifying drills. The idea of the truck tuner is to condition the bearing cone molded into a plastic sideframe. We routinely clean tiny threads of plastic out of there when checking trucks, as well as blown-in paint and attempts at lubrication.
What you DO NOT WANT is a cutting edge that makes the cone deeper, because the pin-point axles need to be centered in the cones on either side. Cutting the cone deeper makes the truck sag down over the axle, adding drag and lowering the coupler height.
InterMountain wheelsets have a narrower axle tip and this is why they can work well in many trucks (like Accurail) without tuning the cone -- they will never touch that part of the sideframe. Reboxx axles are identical to IM, with the exception of being selected for more precise axle widths. They have a chart on their website to tell you what width is best for different mfr's trucks.
We "grease" truck sideframes by spinning the tip of an art supply store graphite pencil in them. The wipe-off from the pencil stays in place longer than sprayed powder.
OK, so I went and bought a new calipers. This is the Reboxx tuner that dave and I mention in our post about it being to short.
Inch scale:
In mm scale:
This is the Micro Mark that I bought and use, because the Reboxx was too short:
inch scale:
This new calipers is cool! I've been measuring everything.
Mike.
My You Tube
BRAKIE rrinker No, tuning up the trucks has never been a requirement, just oen of those things that helps get the absolute best performance out of your rollign stock. That's good news..I feared I missed a new hobby directive. For years my standard tune up was replacing Roundhouse trucks with Athearn since they were smooth rollers from the package. The problem started when I changed from plastic wheels to P2K metal wheels and that's why I bought the tuner and I then tried IM wheel sets and ended up replacing all the P2K wheels due to their superior rollibility over the P2K.. After losing the second tuner and seeing the higher price for a replacement I decided to make one from a small Phillips head screw driver.
rrinker No, tuning up the trucks has never been a requirement, just oen of those things that helps get the absolute best performance out of your rollign stock.
That's good news..I feared I missed a new hobby directive.
For years my standard tune up was replacing Roundhouse trucks with Athearn since they were smooth rollers from the package.
The problem started when I changed from plastic wheels to P2K metal wheels and that's why I bought the tuner and I then tried IM wheel sets and ended up replacing all the P2K wheels due to their superior rollibility over the P2K..
After losing the second tuner and seeing the higher price for a replacement I decided to make one from a small Phillips head screw driver.
With the truck tuner, the P2K wheels in Athearn trucks (or Accurail trucks) roll as well as any. Back before Walthers bought Life Like, you could get the P2K wheels from Modeltrainstuff for like $6 a pack, a huge discount compared to what others sold them for, and way cheaper than other brands. The truck tuner back then was maybe $12 or so, not $20, and considering I bought several gross of P2K wheels, the cost of the tuner tool was quickly recovered in the use of the less expensive wheels.
--Randy
Modeling the Reading Railroad in the 1950's
Visit my web site at www.readingeastpenn.com for construction updates, DCC Info, and more.
I made my own, but I have machine tools in my workshop. I just modified a single flute 60 degree countersink. I ground a 60 degree point on the opposite end to the appropriate length. The length of the tuner really is not super critical, because plastic trucks are quite flexible and can be squeezed together with minimal pressure if your tuner is a bit shorter than your axle.
my Micro Mark tuner measures 1.015"
my InterMountain wheels measure 1.002"
both at same temperature
greg - Philadelphia & Reading / Reading
rrinkerNo, tuning up the trucks has never been a requirement, just oen of those things that helps get the absolute best performance out of your rollign stock.
I'll have to check when I get home, and hope my digital caliper has good batteries.
No, tuning up the trucks has never been a requirement, just oen of those things that helps get the absolute best performance out of your rollign stock. That's great the latest RTR equipment is in better shape out of the box, but I have very little of that, because so many new production cars are for modern era which I have no interest in, plus I prefer a kit whenever I can find them - hence lots of Accurail and old BB kits in my fleet.
Ed,
I'm not entirely sure which one I purchased (Reboxx?) but the overall length measures 1.033" with a pair of calipers...
richhotrainTruck reaming by the consumer should not have to be a required step before putting the car on the layout. Rich
Rich
Rich,
I rarely need to tune the trucks on my rolling stock - even with kits. For the occasional offending truck, however, it is nice to have the right tool for the right job.
Tom
https://tstage9.wixsite.com/nyc-modeling
Time...It marches on...without ever turning around to see if anyone is even keeping in step.
Just found one on Amazon for $22 including shipping which sure beats Micro Mark. It doesn't state the length so no sure from which company it may have originated.
Ed, I don't have a tool like your's, but I measured the Reboxx I have with a ruler that is in 1/64's, and the tuner I have measures 57/64, not to drag this on any more, and the packaging was a very small zip lock bag. I bought it as advertised, and HO scale truck tuner. Maybe it's for an HO narrow gage? I dunno. I don't even remeber where I bought it.
The Micro Mark I have is just a "smidgin" ( I think everyone has a ruler that measures in "smidgins") over 1".
Mike
I also have the Micro Mark tuner and have found it to work as advertised.
I've used it on older MDC and other cars, especially those with metal trucks. But the recently produced models (and most all old Athearn) are just fine as is.
ENJOY !
Mobilman44
Living in southeast Texas, formerly modeling the "postwar" Santa Fe and Illinois Central
richhotrainBut I always have to wonder why the manufacturers cannot do the reaming before putting the car in the box. Truck reaming by the consumer should not have to be a required step before putting the car on the layout. Rich
Perhaps they have with the newer RTR cars since they need no tuning up,well at lest none of mine did?
As far as I can recall there never was a requirement stating you had to fine tune your trucks unless I wasn't informed of this newest requirement which might be a good possibility?
To be honest the only reason I bought a tuner in the first place was to improve the rollability of my BB,Roundhouse and Accurail cars. I sold those off to a train show dealer. I like the newer higher tier RTR cars much better.
I use the Micro Mark tuner and it works well.
But I always have to wonder why the manufacturers cannot do the reaming before putting the car in the box. Truck reaming by the consumer should not have to be a required step before putting the car on the layout.
Alton Junction
gmpullmanAs you can see it is equal in length to a common HO axle size. Does anyone have the Micro Mark one to compare lengths to?
Hi Ed:
I can't find my Reboxx tuner to measure it. All I can say is that when I tried to use it I was immediately disappointed with how it worked (or more accurately - didn't work). I had to squeeze the sideframes so hard to get any sort of cutting action that I thought I was going to ruin the trucks. Maybe I just don't understand how to use it, but I'm not normally a dummy when it comes to using tools (that's not to say that I may be a dummy in many other regards!).
Here is my take on the Reboxx truck tuner:
- it doesn't work!
- it is poorly designed!
- it is unnessary in most cases! (or at least I haven't had any situations where a truck tuner would seem to be necessary).
Oh, I can just feel the flack comming my way now!!
Dave
I'm just a dude with a bad back having a lot of fun with model trains, and finally building a layout!
hon30critterMike, I totally agree! I bought the Reboxx tuner and it is useless as far as I'm concerned. It is far too short to do the job.
I must have a Reboxx Version I (I've had it since they were first available, 20 years ago?)
IMG_0350_W by Edmund, on Flickr
I keep it in the original box and hang it on a hook. It is probably the ONE tool I know where to find
As you can see it is equal in length to a common HO axle size. Does anyone have the Micro Mark one to compare lengths to?
IMG_0353_W by Edmund, on Flickr
I'm still not planning to make one—
Cheers, Ed
Guys,I don't know but,$20.00 for a tool that is around 1/2" long seems a mite steep but,it's your money..I'll stick with my home made contraption since these newer cars don't need fine tuning like the older BB,Eoundhouse Accurail and other like cars..
Quote - "Just a "heads-up", get the tuner from Micro Mark. I bought one from Reboxx, and it's about 3mm shorter, and hard to use. After I bought the Micro Mark tool, I never used the shorter Reboxx one. " - unquote.
Mike, I totally agree! I bought the Reboxx tuner and it is useless as far as I'm concerned. It is far too short to do the job. I had to squeeze the truck sideframes so hard in order to get the Reboxx blades to do anything that I figured I was doing more damage than good.
Note that I have not purchased the MicroMark tuner. I use InterMountain wheel sets and I have yet to find a situation where they didn't roll freely. Most of my rolling stock is Athearn BB but I have lots of better quality stuff too. I may have had two or three situations where the wheels didn't roll freely and all I did to cure the problem was to spread the ends of the sideframes a bit.
By the way Mike - for some reason your posts are wider than most, to the point where the 'Reply' button doesn't appear. That's why I had to copy and paste your comment. Don't ask me why!
I misread the thread title. ;)
I was going to mention the same about the Micro Mark version vs the Reboxx version. I misplaced my old one, so at a train show I picked up a Reboxx one, thinking they were the same thing. When I got home and went to use it - the Reboxx one is pretty much useless for most common rolling stock like Athearn adn Accurail. Even squeezing as hard as I dared without snapping off the sideframes, the Reboxx one would not fit within the bearing surface, plus with the truck squeezed that far, it would have reamed the bearing out at an angle anyway. The Micro Mark one seems to need the sideframes pulled out slightly like when inserting a wheelset, and then, at least in Athear, Accural, and most other common brands, sits loosely, so a SLIGHT squeeze is all it takes to put a little presure on the cutting edge.
Of course, after finding the Reboxx one next to useless, i ordered a Micro Mark one. And after it arrived, I promptly found the "lost" one.
I sprung for the Micro Mark version, and consider it money well-spent. I have a lot of cars with older trucks (and still use mostly plastic wheels), and the tuner does improve rolling qualities in most cases. While it's a small tool and my workbench doesn't always look like the most organised place, I always put oft-used tools where they belong, so they're always easy to find. When I first got the truck tuner, I was surprised to find that it's single-ended...I wonder why they didn't do the opposite end with a left-handed cutter, as it would've halved the labour.
Dave, you're absolutely right about model train stuff (and probably everything else, too) being prohibitively expensive when we try to bring it into Canada. In addition to our lousy dollar, shipping costs are greater, and many sellers ship via means other than the USPS...I don't need my order yesterday or even in a couple of days. Many of the shipping methods offer faster delivery but send the items through a broker, which then values the item and adds applicable sales taxes and handling fees. For example, I ordered some brass shapes from K&S, in Chicago. Their minimum order was $25.00, and my order was about $30.00U.S. I asked them to ship it via USPS and, if they wished to simplify packing, suggested that I would not be averse to having them cut the 3' pieces of material into 1' lengths...I planned to make it into pieces under 2" anyway.By the time the package reached my door, I was almost $95.00CDN out-of-pocket. I could have driven to Chicago and back for less than that, and perhaps made a sidetrip to visit friends there, too.
I solved this problem with the help of a very good friend in the U.S., and now have everything sent to him. As I visit there frequently, and spend more than 48 hours south of the border each time, I am allowed to return to Canada with up to $800.00 worth of goods (excluding alcohol, tobacco, and firearms) without penalty. In some cases, depending on the seller or the amount purchased, shipping to the lower 48 may be free, another savings.I am within a half-hour-or-so from the border, and could get a post office box in Niagara Falls, NY, but I'd still need to stay there for at least 48 hours. I don't know if that's an option for Dave or not...perhaps a weekend getaway with his wife once in a while?Wayne
You would need a Surface Grinder, a Coffee can grinder, and perhaps a fixture for making the cutting edge depending on how good your fingers are. Get a drill blank set it in the coffee grinder and make the angle. flip the blank and make the other end, then the cutting edge is easy to do. It would not be hard altho surface grinders and coffee grinders will set you back a pretty penny. Coffee grinders are used for grinding circular surfaces of various types, they are called that cause they look like old time coffee grinders. With the proper equiptment it would be a piece of cake maybe half an hour to do. I just bought one from MicroMark.
7j43k eaglescout Has anyone tried to make their own truck tuner similar to the one sold by Micro Mark? I will point out to responders, both previous and potential, that the OP DID NOT ask whether it was a good idea or whether it would work. He only asked if anyone had done it. Perhaps we should simply and honestly respond to the question asked.
eaglescout Has anyone tried to make their own truck tuner similar to the one sold by Micro Mark?
Has anyone tried to make their own truck tuner similar to the one sold by Micro Mark?
I will point out to responders, both previous and potential, that the OP DID NOT ask whether it was a good idea or whether it would work. He only asked if anyone had done it.
Perhaps we should simply and honestly respond to the question asked.
I thought I had simply and honestly answered the question.
I thought the question was asking had anyone done it? (That could be a yes, or no answer.)
My answer, was no, and the reasons why.
Simple and honest answer to a simple and honest yes, or no, question.
Ricky W.
HO scale Proto-freelancer.
My Railroad rules:
1: It's my railroad, my rules.
2: It's for having fun and enjoyment.
3: Any objections, consult above rules.
CGW121 Sharpening a drill takes a lot of practice, it is easier said than done. As to the truck tuner itself it looks like a reworked center drill.
Sharpening a drill takes a lot of practice, it is easier said than done. As to the truck tuner itself it looks like a reworked center drill.
I was thinking not so much reworked, as special order.
Ed
An old engineer I had the privilege to work with, and learn from, had the philosophy that for a one off job, making do with the available tools was perfectly acceptable. However, if you needed to do that job three times or more, you should either buy or make the proper tool. Even though I still sharpen drills for various materials, and cutting tools, in this case I’d just buy the truck tuner, in fact, I did.
hon30critter 7j43k I will point out to responders, both previous and potential, that the OP DID NOT ask whether it was a good idea or whether it would work. He only asked if anyone had done it. Perhaps we should simply and honestly respond to the question asked. Should we ask for your approval before posting our answers?
7j43k I will point out to responders, both previous and potential, that the OP DID NOT ask whether it was a good idea or whether it would work. He only asked if anyone had done it. Perhaps we should simply and honestly respond to the question asked.
Should we ask for your approval before posting our answers?
I can't think of any reason to do that. But if you think it would be useful to have your submissions be reviewed before submittal, I would be willing to give it a try.
I think it is perfectly obvious that the OP was considering making his own truck tuner, and the advice given with regard to that possibility is spot on. Dave
I think it is perfectly obvious that the OP was considering making his own truck tuner, and the advice given with regard to that possibility is spot on.
Yes, it is perfectly obvious. Which would explain why he wanted advice from someone who had done it.
OvermodThe big question I have is: when will there be a tuner or retrofit kit to facilitate ’accurizing’ trucks with scale rotating endcaps, the single most glaring thing missing from most model rolling stock and, to me, obviously non-scale even when the rest of the car has good historical ‘fidelity’ and is beautifully weathered. Anyone have an approach to making or tuning trucks with those endcaps?
Actually I would think twice,thrice and rethink the idea..Those endcaps could fly off to never-never land never to be seen again and seeing the various prices for replacement trucks I think I would pass.
The Micro-Mark or Reboxx tool is a reamer and NOT a drill bit. So, one or two turns is all you really need to clean up the inside of a journal.
Buy the tool. You'll be happy you did.
eaglescoutBrakie's idea on a couple cars that I am not worried about ruining and see what happens.
Just remember like the tuner you clearing burrs so turn lightly once or twice.