My first layout was 4' x 16'. Later enlarged to 4' x 20'. This was 0-27 scale. Second one was/is 3' x 6' N scale. still never finished but got a spot to put it. Current one under construction is 14' x 28' with a peninsula. Seems like the fates are against me on building this one tho. Roof leaked, roof & ceiling collapsed, and now am putting a new roof over the building. Hope to have the major repairs done by snowfall time.
Surprising what you can fit into a small space (N) and can't get into a larger space (HO). I think first find the space you have available and then decide what scale you can fit into that space. I see people getting a boatload of one scale and then finding out it won't fit their space. Imagination is bigger than their room. I think a 4' x 8' is a size easiest handled in most rooms/basements. But it can give you the "build a boat in the basement" problem. Suggesting other shapes made out of a 4' x 8' is a better idea IF you make it able to be broken down in the event of a move.
Forums such as this give a lot of advice to noobies and oldies alike. Keep up the great work!
God's Best & Happy Rails to You!
Bing (RIPRR The Route of the Buzzards)
The future: Dead Rail Society
Why not check out Lowe's in New London ,CT for 2'x2' common pine square panels. Pre cut and sanded on one side you could build around the room and make a point to point layout that can be taken apart if needed. Screw and glue each section (double up to make a 2'x4' rectangle) and connect each with removeable wingnuts on the side of the boxes used to support the edges. You could make a "U" shape point to point layout or around all the walls if the room is big enough. The sheet squares are 15/32 " thick so sagging won't be a problem. You will have to cut the edges using dimensional lumber,1" by 4" is good which come in 4' lengths there at Lowe's. Happy building. Steven McDonough
Steve McDonough Why not check out Lowe's in New London ,CT for 2'x2' common pine square panels. Pre cut and sanded on one side you could build around the room and make a point to point layout that can be taken apart if needed. Screw and glue each section (double up to make a 2'x4' rectangle) and connect each with removeable wingnuts on the side of the boxes used to support the edges. You could make a "U" shape point to point layout or around all the walls if the room is big enough. The sheet squares are 15/32 " thick so sagging won't be a problem. You will have to cut the edges using dimensional lumber,1" by 4" is good which come in 4' lengths there at Lowe's. Happy building. Steven McDonough
I went to Ring's End in Niantic, CT (because it is a rail served lumberyard). They also had high quality lumber. I had difficulty finding straight (not warped or cupped) lumber at both big box stores.
As far as plywood panels goes, a cheaper way might be to buy a 4x8 sheet for $21.93. They (HD) will do up to 4 (or was it 5) cuts for free. 50 cents per cut after that. 3 cuts will give you 4x 2'x4' panels. Comes out to about half the price of the precut panels.
Ive already built a layout (made freestanding standing sections somewhat like you describe due to living in an apartment). I disassbled it when I moved. That layout really isnt useable in my new space (was designed to fit the old space).
My current layout is made from modular sections (its technically a sectional layout because it will only go together one way). Most of them comply to the local modular club's standards.
The original post was meant to start a discussion on what would be the best type of "starter" layout to recommend to new people coming into the hobby. Not specifically for me, but just in general.
An avenue not yet discussed would be to join a modular club (if you are socially inclined). Its definitely not for everyone, and it is best if you are fortunate enough to have multiple options to shop around a bit for the best club for you.