Just an update from the OP. Bachmann did replace the first DCC Equipped 2-8-0 I purchased and the second loco ran better, but not as well as so many claimed for the original run of this model. I installed a sound decoder, replaced the miserable headlight, added a back-up light, then did a lot of massaging of the driveline. Unfortunately, this second loco still does not run even as well as my old MDC loco kits. While all of my other locos will smoothly crawl around my layout at less than 10 scale miles per hour, including my Bachmann Sound Value 2-6-0 Mogul, this Bachmann 2-8-0 refuses to run smoothly under about 25 scale miles per hour. This purchase has been a BIG disappointment.
Hornblower
I installed a completely new sound and motor control decoder and only operate using DCC. I also removed the capacitors from the Bachmann motor. The result is significantly better performance than unmodified but nowhere near the operating performance of my other locos.
Since I operate using DC only, the first thing I do with my Bachmann locos (all steam) is remove all the circuitry in the tender and the plugs between tender and loco, and any wiring for lighting - I don't do "nighttime" running, and headlights were not required in daytime in my layout's operating era.
I replace the tender-to-loco wiring using a pair of single-wire plug-ins, as shown here on a modified Bachmann 10 Wheeler...
...and the locomotives all run smoothly at any speed.
Wayne
doctorwayne A couple years later, I had time to work on it, so dug it out and took it for a spin. It ran well, but about halfway up a grade, it stalled. The rear driver set was still turning, but not the front one.I immediately figured that a driveshaft must've become uncoupled, but disassembly revealed that all of the gears in the front engine were pretty-well toothless...the former owner must have used non-plastic compatable oil, and while I was busy working on those other projects, it worked on destroying those gears.
A couple years later, I had time to work on it, so dug it out and took it for a spin. It ran well, but about halfway up a grade, it stalled. The rear driver set was still turning, but not the front one.I immediately figured that a driveshaft must've become uncoupled, but disassembly revealed that all of the gears in the front engine were pretty-well toothless...the former owner must have used non-plastic compatable oil, and while I was busy working on those other projects, it worked on destroying those gears.
Sounds exactly like what is happeneing to my 2-6-6-2. I need to take it apart to check what is happening inside but I'm sure with the amount of times it has happened the gears are probably pretty stripped. I saw too that Bachmann was selling new driver sets for that model but I didn't pull the trigger. Maybe I just need to do it and finally tackle the issue!
What started as a love of Thomas the Tank Engine has grown into this... a passion for all things railroading!
YouTube: FJX2000 Productions
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FJX2000. I saw too that Bachmann was selling new driver sets for that model but I didn't pull the trigger. Maybe I just need to do it and finally tackle the issue!
If you cannot find parts from Bachmann, try Shapeways. One of the locals installed a set of printed gears in one of his locomotives from Shapeways and was happy with the outcome.
-Kevin
Living the dream.
Sorry to take this discussion about 2-8-0s further off track, no pun intended, but things are looking up for both my 2-8-0 and 2-6-6-2 previously mentioned.
For the 2-8-0, I ended up taking it apart down to the drivers and frame so I could access the wheels easily and test roll the runnign gear without any interference from the motor. I got the wheels re-aligned on their axles so the quatering was all correct and no more binding was occuring. To ensure the wheels didn't slip on the axle again I then removed the main problem wheel from the axle, applied a little super glue, and then reinstalled the wheel, making sure to quickly re-quatered it before the glue set. Now she has been running smooth and quiet!
Plus, I took out that terrible factory Bachmann headlight and installed a nano LED chip in the back of the actual headlight housing so now the headlight is actually functional and looks presentable!
As far as the 2-6-6-2, I finally decided to tear into it too and I got it almost completely taken apart. I discovered that the rear U-joint from the motor had a piece that had come undone from the worm gear axle of the rear tucks. I got out the trusty super glue and reapplied that part in the hopes that it doesn't break off in the future again.
The other problem I am facing is the wires between the engine and tender causing binding around corners. The original plugs that came with the model when I bought it had worn out to the point that the front headlight no longer was getting power and the front power pickups were spotty at best. I bought and installed replacement plugs from Bachmann and that solved the power issues, but the new wires seem to have a thicker, less plyable design or at least they arent naturally bent the way I want them to go, so they interfere with the drawbar between the locomotive and tender. This causes the binding issues while the engine takes corners, regardless of which hole in the drawbar I use for tender spacing. Without using the drawbar nothing binds but then there is a larger gap between the engine and tender and tension is being added to those plugs.
I'm thinking of trying to remount the plugs so they face straight backwards and not straight down at the drawbar. That should eliminate the binding issues, but it is easier said then done. A jointed draw bar would also work and is an idea that crossed my mind. Oh the joys of modeling steam locomotives!