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Weathering a green box car

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Weathering a green box car
Posted by nypeterbilt379 on Saturday, December 19, 2015 4:01 PM
I'm looking for advice on how to fade the green paint on this boxcar. I've tried several washers with white acrylic paint and water but it just looks like there's a film on the car so I've scrubbed clean. Any ideas would be greatly appreciated thanks.
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Posted by 7j43k on Saturday, December 19, 2015 4:20 PM

The same thing happened to me.  So I asked my artist friend.  Who told be to add some red to the mix.  It cuts back the intensity of the green.

 

Ed

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Posted by nypeterbilt379 on Saturday, December 19, 2015 4:23 PM
Mix the white and red and water Ed?
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Posted by Mark R. on Saturday, December 19, 2015 5:31 PM

This is about the best tuitorial I have found ....

http://www.pegnsean.net/~twindad/FadingFast.pdf

Mark.

¡ uʍop ǝpısdn sı ǝɹnʇɐuƃıs ʎɯ 'dlǝɥ

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Posted by dknelson on Saturday, December 19, 2015 5:35 PM

Instead of washes, I suggest weathering powders and chalks.  The surface of the car needs some "tooth" or the powders/chalks won't adhere.  Thus unless it already has a somewhat matte finish I would spray it with DulCoat and allow that to dry thoroughy (you may want to do the spraying outdoors - DulCoat has a distinctive odor).  Then apply the white or light gray chalks or powders with a soft brush or dry Q tip.  I slightly "overdo it" because I then add another coat of DullCoat spray and that tends to lessen the effect.

By the way years ago the C&NW had some deep green covered hoppers and over time as the paint aged and faded, the cars became more and more blue looking.

Dave Nelson 

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Posted by ndbprr on Saturday, December 19, 2015 5:55 PM
An old rule of thumb is the darker the color the lighter the weathering and vice versa. But white is not the right color. Go more toward a dust or tan color heavier at the bottom from mud splashing the car and dirt washing down from rain.
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Posted by Graffen on Saturday, December 19, 2015 7:50 PM
You need either artist oil paint diluted with turpentine. i.e. Naples yellow and zinc white would be a good start. Or airbrush a soft beige/white acrylic color mixed with matte medium.

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Posted by 7j43k on Saturday, December 19, 2015 7:57 PM

nypeterbilt379
Mix the white and red and water Ed?
 

 

Yes.  The ratio is a matter of experiment.  I would recommend trying things out on test sheets, rather than your model.  Paint a piece of styrene with your green.  Or a green that is similar.  And then overcoat with the modifier.  And see if it works.

It just seems like a bad idea to spray stuff on your model on the chance it MIGHT work.  People in model railroading don't do enough experimenting.

 

Ed

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Posted by G Paine on Saturday, December 19, 2015 8:18 PM

Is there a standerd light green paint the could be used without any mixing?. For instance (to use obsolete paints), if the car is close to Floquil dark green, do an overspray with Floquil light green or somethng similar

George In Midcoast Maine, 'bout halfway up the Rockland branch 

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Posted by 7j43k on Saturday, December 19, 2015 8:43 PM

G Paine

Is there a standerd light green paint the could be used without any mixing?. For instance (to use obsolete paints), if the car is close to Floquil dark green, do an overspray with Floquil light green or somethng similar

 

You could certainly drift a color as you describe.  But it would be far better to paint the car the right color to start.  It's much easier.

 

 

Ed

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Posted by HO-Velo on Sunday, December 20, 2015 12:00 AM

Never tried it, but an interesting method for fading a BN green boxcar by a talented man.

 http://www.theweatheringshop.com/articlegcolor.html

Regards, Peter

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Posted by jecorbett on Sunday, December 20, 2015 8:40 AM

I use weathering powders and I've found the best way to mute the color on boxcars is to use a medium or light gray. After applying it to the entire side I then brush it vertically. It does a good job of fading the color especially on a green or bright red car. I then finish the weathering with dust and rust applied appropriately.

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Posted by PennCentral99 on Sunday, December 20, 2015 10:26 AM

This may come as a surprise, but I've weathered a few Penn Central cars (hahaha). I'm not an expert and still have lots of learning curves ahead. As with the experimentation process, I've had good results with acrylic paints - yellow ochre (for one car) and spearmint (for another), each slightly lightened with a touch of warm white.

I used an air brush to apply until the base green was lightened to my desire. Then a light application of weathering chalk/powders to knock it down a  little more.

yellow ochre.....

spearmint.....

Terry

Inspired by Addiction

See more on my YouTube Channel

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Posted by dbduck on Sunday, December 20, 2015 12:01 PM

To fade any color..I will scrub the car with a pastel chalk (powdered by scraping with exacto blade)  slightly lighter than the color of the car. This will make the car color look aged & the white lettering look like the  cars paint is fading thru the lettering

Then the normal rust & dirt weathering

I have a fairly big selection of "car colors"  but if I need a different one, i take the car to the local art supply store to match up a good fading chalk

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Posted by ricktrains4824 on Sunday, December 20, 2015 9:58 PM

PanPastels.

Titanium white and Neutral Payne's Gray Tint. (Approx. 50/50 mix.)

Used it on a BN green covered hopper. Worked amazingly well. Quick, easy fade.

Add in some dirt and rust, and presto, completely weathered car, with perfectly faded paint.

Ricky W.

HO scale Proto-freelancer.

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3: Any objections, consult above rules.

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Posted by DGX GP 38 on Monday, December 21, 2015 12:07 AM
Nypeterbilt379,

I would agree with the others here who recommend to fade your green boxcar with a lighter green. Using some light grey for an initial fade layer is ok, but don't go too heavy. Too much white or grey can make your car take on a "ghost" appearance that, IMHO is not entirely prototypical. Using a lighter shade of green will yield better results. I like to use washes, or airbrush light coats of the lighter green in acrylic, or oils until the fade is to the desired effect. I then add some rusting and road grime. Do experiment on some scrap plastic to gauge the effects before starting on your rolling stock.

Bryan B.

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Posted by kasskaboose on Monday, December 21, 2015 6:50 AM

Here's another vote for using the pastel chalks and dull coat.  Weathering any color happens by applying the dull coat to remove the plastic shine and provide an adhesive surface for the chalk.  This month's edition of MR talks about how to do that, which is a very informative and easy read. 

I use the same color chalk as the car and apply it vertically with a stiff artist brush.  Michael's or other art supply places also sell a large set of chalks (not kind kids use for sidewalks!)

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