I have an IHC mogul that I am detailing to look like a Canadian National engine. I noticed that the pilot is incorrect and would like to change it. I was looking on the internet for the detail part but the closest thing I could find was a CPR boiler tube pilot by Minitures by Eric. Is there any difference or is there a company that makes a CNR pilot?
Lone Geep
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Some years ago, a good friend who models CNR found a source for CNR-style pilots, and bought all that were available. Apparently, they were made for Asian builders of brass CNR locos, and were surplus. Since I re-work most of his brass stuff, we've pretty-well worked my way through his supply. I have one left but I also have the locomotive on which it will be used. I don't know if he has any others left, but I can ask.
Here's an old Akane USRA 2-10-2 which I re-worked into a CNR T-3-a, much in the same manner that the CNR modified the 10 USRA locos which they purchased from the B&A. The pilot shown is one of the surplus ones:
Here's the same loco, in-service:
Cal-Scale's #318 pilot, as seen here.... Cal-Scale-Steam-Loco-Parts
...is fairly close, and adding the enlarged platform at the bottom of the boiler tube area should make it acceptable. I'd use .010" or .015" sheet brass, and solder it to the pilot. If you want a working front coupler, remove the cast dummy coupler supplied, then drill out the pocket. You'll need some suitable needle files to square-off the enlarged opening. After that, use one of Kadee's #5-style plastic couplers and remove the mounting boss from the shank. Drill through the pilot beam from the top, and then through the remaining stub of the shank, and insert a piece of music wire to hold it in place. This will allow it to pivot somewhat, although it won't be self-centering.
Wayne
Lone Geep:
In one of your other threads you asked about scratch building with brass. Building your pilot would be a good place to start and you won't need more than a few basic tools.
Here is one that I built for my McKeen Motor Car project, along side the rather nasty resin one that came with the kit:
Don't look too closely because the spacing on the bars isn't consistant, but from a normal viewing distance it looks fine.
Dave
I'm just a dude with a bad back having a lot of fun with model trains, and finally building a layout!
Doctorwayne, your detailing is superbe. I can only dream of doing such a great job. Well Done .
Hon30critter. Another well done job. . so how did you do it? I have a soldering gun that I've used for doing wires but I don't think it would be suitable for modelling. What did you use for the spokes and to cut the brass sheet?
Ah for the days when Greenway Products would come to Milwaukee's Trainfest with a nice stock of spare parts for imported brass locomotives, including all sorts of pilots (and drive wheels and cabs). Their Trackside Specialties pages do show some pilots so check here
http://greenwayproducts.com/brass-builders-corner-trackside-specialties/page-15/
and note you have to act fast if you want to order anything - they shut down for the entire winter as of Nov 17
Dave Nelson
Cal Scale and Precision Scale make brass cast boiler tube pilots. I have used the Cal Scale one
http://www.walthers.com/exec/search?category=Part&scale=H&manu=&item=&keywords=boiler+tube+pilot&words=restrict&instock=Q&split=30&Submit=Search
George In Midcoast Maine, 'bout halfway up the Rockland branch
Hi Lone Geep:
The McKeen pilot is made of the following:
.010" flat brass sheet.
brass angle - sorry I can't remember the exact size
phosphor bronze .015" wire for the 'spokes'
When I look at the pilot that doctorwayne shows in his post, you might be better off to use something close to .020" x .100 brass rectangular stock for the bottom of the pilot.
To answer your question about how I built the McKeen pilot, I used plain old tin snips to cut the brass sheet. Unfortunately the cutting process causes the sheet to curl so you have to flatten it out after cutting. I used a razor saw to cut the angle stock. I used a pin vise with a suitably sized bit to drill the brass angles for the spokes.
I drilled the angled brass before assembly and before cutting it to length. That just makes it easier to hang on to. I have to admit to 'eyeing' the spacing of the holes which is why it's not consistant. With more care and better measuring it could have been a whole lot more accurate. How accurate you want your pilot to be is up to you obviously. I'm a bit of a "it's good enough" modeller.
I soldered the pilot frame together but the spokes are CA'd in place. Soldering them would have been beyond my skill level and I don't have the right soldering equipment, i.e. a resistance soldering station. I did have to use wet paper towels as heat sinks when soldering the frame joints. Other wise the whole thing would have collapsed into a pile of scrap if the heat got to the already soldered joints.
The 'rivets' that you see are actually the ends of the spokes. I bent them at 90 degrees, glued them into place, and then used track cutting pliers to clip them off more or less square. A little bit of filing flattened the ends nicely. Note that each spoke is a different length. I used trial and error to get them to fit. Once you have done a few you will get fairly good at judging the length but you will still have a lot of rejects. I have found that trying to straighten and then re-bend the phosphor bronze wire is a waste of time because it usually breaks on the second or third try.
As far as what soldering gun I used, well I think I'm a bit of a rebel in that regard. I used a large Weller dual heat 100/140 watt soldering gun, and I used it on the 140 watt setting. The trick is to get in and get out very quickly!(contrary to what you do with your girlfriend!) I tin all of the components before assembly, then I put a tiny bit of rosin flux on the joints, then I make sure that everything is perfectly aligned, then I touch the pre heated iron to the joint for less than a second.
Things don't always go into place the first time so you have to be prepared to do some things over once or twice. Don't expect to get it all right the first time! Oh, I also clean my soldering iron tip every two or three joints. In other words, if the tip is not bright and shiney, clean it!
I hope this inspires you to take a stab at building your own pilot. You will be as pleased as heck with yourself when you do!