Cleaning Track

[Missouri Pacific BNSF]

I have cleaned my track multiple times in the past couple of days using rubbing alcohol and my locomotives run fine until I stop and then I must clean the track again.  The track is dirty every time even after it has been cleaned, the track is nickel silver and wipes off black as usual.  The cars I am using are older cars that have been boxed for some time, is this my problem?  Also if I go to metal wheels on all my cars will it help out any with track cleaning? Thanks for any help or advice!

[Rastafarr]

1. Check your rubbing alcohol and make sure it doesn't have any 'extra' ingredients (oils, scent, etc). Just alcohol and water.

2. Have you cleaned the wheels on your engines and rolling stock? They could just be putting dirt back down where you cleaned it off.

3. Wait a little after cleaning before running your trains. Let the rails dry out thoroughly, which shouldn't take more than five minutes (alcohol dries up pretty quick).

Happy training!

Stu

[jeffrey-wimberly]

Going to metal wheels will reduce your track cleaning. Plastic wheels it seems pick up lots of dirt. The last time I cleaned my track, a couple years ago I guess when I tore down and rebuilt half the layout I used the GLEAM method. Before that I had GLEAMed it in 2006 and only had the wipe the track occasionally if trains hadn't been run in some time. I keep a copy on my forum just for occasions like this.

Originally posted by Semafore.

I'm talking GLEAM!: ULTRA_SHINY and Smooth rails can now be had with my 'WHAT box?" approach to this conductivity problem. An HO modeller since 1970, I know the problem WELL!
THIS IS A ONE-TIME PROCESS. DO ALL TRACK!!
1] On an appropiate-sized block, use 400 wet/dry paper to remove the extrusion milling left on the railheads. The block must span both rails.
2] Now use 600 or finer, repeat process.
3] Using an appropiate-sized STAINLESS-STEEL piece, apply moderate pressure and BURNISH the rails! The more you slide back and forth, the smoother and shinier the rails become! [ the GLEAM part ]. This is because you have removed the ridges, bumps, and pits. Burnishing helps seal pores with metal, eliminating traps for dirt and tarnish; almost like a MIRROR!
4] [For Bob H.] Use BLUE MAGIC or equivalent metal polish to deep-clean the remaining contaminates.
5] Last, buff the rails to your eye's content!
The shine is 5x more lusterous than just polish alone. The wax left behind is minimal, is not insulating, and virtually eliminates rail cleaning.
This is a process HOT OFF THE PRESSES! [Of my brain] I've only been at it 6 weeks with amazing results! {I just added the wax step today.} prior to that, though, the NS HO rails I'm guinea-pigging (300') sans wax STILL gleams today, with slight tarnishing, so I'm gonna wax 'em next!
I will also try some classic brass rail to see how that stands up.

AND REMEMBER; NO MORE ABRASIVES...EVER!!!!!!
Or you'll just ruin your mirror finish, and will have to gleam and wax AGAIN!
Dry-wipe with paper towel or cotton. You can always polish anytime; wipe away excess.

I've had DCC and DC locos/lash-ups creep at a scale 3-5MPH around the staging level loop 100' with NO STALL or FAULTER. gotta love it

[Lake]

I'm also a firm believer in cleaning the engines wheels often. Most times if I clean a section of track it is with a piece of cloth held to the end of a short piece of 1"x2" And no cleaner of any kind.

I too used to be obsessed about the track. Not any more. Engine lights flicker on more then one area of track, clean the wheels. If only a small short track area then I will do a quick wipe of the track.

The dark stuff on the rails is usually not the problem. My layout is in a non climate controlled building, so what ever is out side in the rural area I live in is there on the Atlas nickle silver track..

[Metro Red Line]

I've gleamed my tracks a few years ago, then went on a period of inactivity in the hobby. When I started running trains again a few weeks ago, all I needed to do was vacuum the dust off (or use those new Woodland Scenics "Dust Monkey" truck attachments, and run over any stubborn areas with a piece of spare cork roadbed. 

No spraying anything, no chemicals, no Bright Boys, the trains ran just fine.

I use 600 and then 1200 grit sandpaper though.

I wonder, though, if you can just use a Bright Boy instead of the coarser grade sandpaper, then use the finer sandpaper, then burnish, whether that gets you the same result. I think the operative process is the burnishing. 

[mobilman44]

I didn't read the other replies, so this may be a repeat...............

Per your description, the problem is highly likely to be dirty wheels on cars and locos.   Plastic wheelsets can pick up a layer of "gunk", that looks like pencil lead.  Assuming that is the problem, the wheel sets need to be cleaned.   Years ago I tried various methods and ended up using a Dremel with a wire brush attachment, which worked really well.   If you do this, wear safety glasses!

Later on, I switched all the plastic wheelsets to metal ((Intermountain) and that worked out just great.

[cncsxbnsfrailway2]

Metro Red Line

or use those new Woodland Scenics "Dust Monkey" truck attachments

Those do work pretty good.  Just another excuse to run a train

Metro Red Line

run over any stubborn areas with a piece of spare cork roadbed. 

I enjoy that technique as well.  It's quick.  It's fast and requires minimum effort.  A couple of weeks ago I noticed a couple of spots I had gotten plaster on so I just grabbed a piece of cork and ran over it quickly.

[HaroldA]

The highly techinical term for that dirt is 'gunk' or 'crud'.  My layout is in the basement and if it doesn't get run at least once a week, it seems I get places where the gunk seems to collect. If it isn't going to run for a considerable period of time, i cover the whole thing with very lightweight plastic drop cloths - cheapest I can find at Lowe's - and it does seem to help. 

 I am changing over all the remaining plastic wheels sets to metal and the ones that were metal, I am cleaning the crud off those using a cotton swab dipped in alcohol.  The few cars that still have plastic wheelsets, i am pulling those off until i can change them over.  The old plastic wheels are loaded with crud so they need to go.

[gandydancer19]

70% Rubbing alcohol leaves a residue. You should be using 91% isopropol alcohol. Clean your track then clean your loco wheels. This will make the metal very dry because it removes the natural oils. Spray some WD-40 on your finger and wipe it on the track for about one foot. Then run your locomotives through it and around your layout. The black stuff is nickle silver oxide which is conductive and should not prevent electrical pick up. If the layout sits for a period of time, the track will collect dust. If you run your trains through it, they will pick it up on the wheels. That is when you start having problems. Try and push some kind of track cleaning car in front of your loco for the first time around after letting the layout sit for a while.

[Schuylkill and Susquehanna]

Sounds like you have some serious rail dirt problems caused by multiple reasons, one of which is probably dirty wheels.  Since it sounds like the dirt problem is not easily going to be solved by cleaning, I would recommend getting some automatic transmission fluid (ATF) and applying it sparingly to the tracks.  There was an artical on ATF a while back in Model Railroader.  There were no bad effects on plastic track or wheels or boxcar paint.  ATF is electrically conductive and will pick up the dirt and put it into suspension so that it no longer interfers with conductivity.  Reapply every week or two.

Hope your problems will be solved soon