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Teen Model Railroad Place, Fall 2010
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<p>[quote user="IVRW"]</p> <p>Which reminds me. I read through the WS Modurail manual (Ive said it many times before, but cudos to them for astoundingly complete instructions), and confirmed my suspicions that I next have to lay and wire track. I will be laying ME code 70 flextrack with ME and Shinohara Code 70 turnouts. I have never laid flextrack before. Any tips or pointers?</p> <div style="clear:both;"></div> <p>[/quote]</p> <p>Eeesh! Learning how to lay flextrack by starting with expensive (and exacting) ME and Shinohara Code 70 is A BAD IDEA. Buy a small box of cheap Code 100 Atlas flextrack and a bit of Atlas snap-track (to practice connecting to non-flextrack like switches, but cheaper than using real switches) and try laying some curves, straights, etc. Don't solder yet, just lay different configurations and get the feel of working with flextrack.</p> <p>When it comes to laying the real stuff, take it slow. Make sure to clean up the cut rail ends with a file otherwise it will come back to haunt you (especially with Code 70). Gaps at rail joints are NOT ACCEPTABLE. You want this track to be the very image of perfection. Once you're all done, put in several hours of train run-time over each section of track before you solder the joints. Push long cuts of cars over it, run at different speeds, etc, to make sure that track is bulletproof.</p> <p>Trust me, I've learned all this the hard way, and spent hours and mucho $$$ fixing it and doing it over. And that was with Code 100, which is much harder to screw up.</p>
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