Now that I'm on the way into airbrushing, as a preliminary prep question, I am informed that Badger Modelflex paints are already airbrush-ready, based on their thinned composition. A few questions for those experienced airbrushers who regularly use this paint:
1. Given the fairly wide selection, based on Badger's website railroad color chart, should I start with and stick with these paints, rather than trying to " get the mix right" with thinning Polly Scale water-based acrylics?
2. I notice that there are some other military colors and a few more marine colors in separate charts?- are these (Badger paints) the same consistency as the railroad colors? Is there a need to look on these other charts for color choices, or do they somewhat overlap the railroad color pallete?
3. Jeff Wilson and others have mentioned inexpensive acrylics (in larger bottles) available at art stores such as Michaels Crafts. Has anyone used these in their model painting? and if so, do they require thinning?
4. Is there a good one-stop information source (aside from Badger's how-to on their website) that is more on point with railroad-themed airbrush techniques?
5. Finally, with the demise of most of my LHS's in the area, how- and from whom- do users of Badger Modelflex get their paint supplies these days?
Appreciatively,
Cedarwoodron
I have no problems using Polyscale right from the bottle!
I just crank up the air pressure until it begins flowing and adjust the airbrush for the proper pattern!
BOB H - Clarion, PA
OK, I am a newbe to airbrush painting, so take what I say with a grain of salt.I started with Model Flex in a double action AB. I thinned mine just a little (eye dropper full) and also added a dropper full of their Extender. It seems to be OK, but I get this nagging feeling that the paint might peel off the model if bumped too hard. Nothing I can put my finger on, just a nagging feeling. It looks more like skin than paint on a model. Sometimes the paint wanted to bead up, then smoothed out. So I am just not real happy with Model Flex at this point. I also think the double action brush is too much for me, but I liked that it was an internal mix brush.So, I have just got a single action internal mix AB, and have gotten some Polly Scale paints to try next. I have seen the video of Cody air brushing with Polly Scale and I must say it looks easier than what I was doing with the Model Flex. I have been using Polly Scale for brush painting, and I am really pleased with it that way, so I am hoping air brushing with it will work just as well. (I am planning on keeping my air brush colors separate from my paint brush colors.)
Polly Scale also has a nice selection of RR colors. Go to the Walthers web site and look them up. I order mine through Acculites.com and get 20% off.
Elmer.
The above is my opinion, from an active and experienced Model Railroader in N scale and HO since 1961.
(Modeling Freelance, Eastern US, HO scale, in 1962, with NCE DCC for locomotive control and a stand alone LocoNet for block detection and signals.) http://waynes-trains.com/ at home, and N scale at the Club.
when I decided to switch to water based paint , I tried the Badger Modelflex and was not happy with the results , did not cover and just seemed to thin. I went to the Pollyscale and have been happy ever after.
Granted it could have been just me, I am not the world greatest airbrusher. But I have been using the floquil stuff for 20+ years and maybe I was just used to it.
1 - I use several brands of paints - just be aware of the properties of each.
2 - All Badger Modelflex is the same consistency from what I have experienced.
3 - You can use stuff like Delta Cremecoat/Apple Barrel/etc - they just do not have railroad specific colors.
4 - Use this forum!
5 - I use several Internet dealer....
When I first stated trying acrylics, I had a lot of problems with Modelflex(as noted in one of the above posts). I gave up and kept using Pollyscale and the regular Floquil line of paints that I was familiar with. Last July I attended several clinics/workshops at the NMRA National put on by Badger. I found I was using it all wrong! I had to set the air pressure up to 35 psi to get it to work, and it was running. As I found out, just mixing it is all that is needed. 20-25 psi produced great results(even with a 40+ year old Badger 200). I had noticed that sometimes I could spray Floquil products direct from the bottle, and sometimes I had to thin them down(I thought I just has old dried paint stock). What I learned from the clinics was to thin your paint to the consistancy of 2% milk. I bought one of their 'show special' air brushes while at the NTS. When I got home, I fired up the old Badger 200 and mixed the paint with the little battery operated stir stick I bought at the show. I then checked for the consistancy of 2% milk and sprayed some Floquil Pollyscale(at 20 psi) on several old shells - great results. I then tried painting with Badger Modelflex at 20 psi. I had to up the psi to about 22-25 psi, but it painted just great! After 40 years of using an air brush, I learned something(and the cost of the NMRA National was worth every cent).
Grab some old shells and start experimenting - You will pick up the 'knack' very fast....
Jim
Modeling BNSF and Milwaukee Road in SW Wisconsin
I just got finished with my first Air Brush session using Polly Scale paints.I thinned the first color per the mfg. recommendations except I used 70% alcohol. All went well, and I used 15 psi. The AB was a Badger 200NH single action.The second color I tried right out of the bottle with no thinning, per BOB H's post. It also worked. However, I had to increase the air pressure to between 20 and 25 psi. I also had to open up the needle some more. But it worked and I am a happy camper. I liked the way the Polly Scale paint went on. I got a better feeling with it than with the Model Flex.I will also say that I used NEW bottles of paint this time. When finished with each color, I cleaned the inside of the cap, the rim of the bottle, and put a small piece of plastic wrap on the bottle mouth before putting on the cap. As I understand it, that is supposed to give a good seal without creating dry paint flecks when the bottle is opened next time. So we will see.
I like the Modelflex paints. I've used them with a single action and a double action airbrush with no problems. The only time I've had problems with them was the colors black and silver. I had trouble hand brushing them on my projects. I never did uderstand that one. All of the other colors did fine for me. Just my two cents worth.
I tried the Badger Modelflex paints for a while, but was also not happy with the results. My experiences were the same as the others here who have also said they weren't happy with them.
I switched to Polly Scale for a while, and in my opinion, was far superior to Modelflex in terms of coverage and finish. The only problem I had was the paint kept drying in the tip of my airbrush, so I'd have to stop and unclog it every 30 seconds or so. I think maybe the dry climate I live in contributed to that problem. I have used the cheap craft paints on wood projects with some success, but again the problem was the quick drying and clogging in the airbrush tip.
I then switched to enamel based paints (Floquil, Testor's) and have been pretty happy with the results. Same coverage and finish as Polly Scale, but less clogging. I'm thinking about giving acrylics another shot on an upcoming modeling project, though.
As for thinning, regardless of the paint type, I always try to shoot for a consistency similar to 2% milk. Most model paints will tell you what ratios to use, but for craft paints and others, you just have to guesstimate and use trial and error.
Dan Stokes
My other car is a tunnel motor
I have used modelflex extensively and like it - gives a great finish for decaling... but, I will say it is vey different to spray than flat finishes like polyscale. Guess my automotive painting experience helps with adapting to different materials... takes a little practice with thinning and spraying.
I've had luck with products like Createx Additive Retarder and Testors Universal Acrylic Thinner in keeping the spray tip clean. Some people thin acrylics with alcohol or window cleaners, which actually makes them dry even faster.
Badger Modelflex is hard to get used to but can produce excellent results and I can often decal straight over it without a gloos coat.
3 words: Practice, Practice and finally .......................Practice.
Even though some paints say you can spray from the bottle, this may or not be true. The thing you have no control over is the age of the paint that you just bought. In theory it's in an airtight bottle but this doesn't neccessarily mean you're home free. The more you paint the more you will get a feel for what consistency works best with various brands. The 2% milk is a good goal to shoot for. Experiment on some pieces of cardboard and eventually you will develop your touch. Also I can't recall ever needing 35psi for any spraying I've done, most times around 20-22 or so.