Back with another typically newbie question.
While having coffee with a non-train modelling friend last night, I mentioned that I had to go out and buy some fine grit sand paper to take the shine off my styrene to facilitate the adhesion of my first coat of acrylic paint. He suggested that I try using toothpaste, ideally a tooth whitening version as they have more grit, instead of sandpaper. So, I would like to ask what everyone things of his idea. Could it work? How would you suggest removing any trace residue left by the toothpast?
I look very forward to reading your responses.
Jules
I've never tried it, but it sounds possible. Just take a little tooth paste on a brush and try it on a piece os scrap or wall that won't show too much. After a good scrubbing, wash it off good in warm water and detergent. An experimental amount of tooth paste and an old brush won't be much of an investment.
When you see the results let us know.
Good luck,
Richard
Probably would work,but wouldnt it make a mess.Sand paper seems better.maybe steel wool......
Actually, jewelers have known about the abrasive qualities of toothpaste for decades (so has Heloise, as in "Hints from Heloise").
Marlon
See pictures of the Clinton-Golden Valley RR
Years ago, toothpaste was made from a powder at the time of use.
Oh Just go and pick up a bright boy!!!!!!
It might work but why buy tooth paste and make a mess when you can just get a cheap sheet of sandpaper and do the same thing much faster? I guess if there are tight areas that sand paper won't work then maybe, but as noted earlier, steel wool will work there.
Springfield PA
I'm not sure why there would be a need to rough up styrene before painting. All I have done is wash the styrene with soapy water, dry it, and then prime with rattle can automotive primer. Doesn't the primer provide the same 'tooth' that treating with toothpaste or sandpaper would with a whole lot less hassle? I have even forgotten the washing process and simply sprayed primer or Pollyscale right on to the styrene with good results.
Who knows! Maybe in 50 years or so the paint will all fall off and then you can say "I told you so!"
Dave
I'm just a dude with a bad back having a lot of fun with model trains, and finally building a layout!
Hi everyone,
First off, thank you all for responding to what I knew would sound like a really dumb question, even from me! But, to answer the questions put to me.
Both my wife and I suffer from some very serious medical conditions, and as a result I am unable to use spray primer or Pollyscale in the house, and it is just too cold to even think of doing it in the yard!
Sand paper is the way that I have always done it, but I have used my stock so often that I would be as well off rubbing the styrene with a tissue as my sandpaper! And, due to the forementioned cold my friend was trying to save my wife's and my lungs the exposure to the cold.
When he suggested it to me, the novelty of the suggestion struck me as worthy of putting to the members of this forum. And, I thought that if anyone thought it may work, I would try it and save myself the struggle of getting out to the stores during this inclement weather.
I will return to my tried and true sand-paper when able...but, in the meantime I think I might just rummage through the bathroom cabinet to see if we have any old tubes of toothpaste kicking about.
Richard, I will be sure to update when I have some results to report.
The only problem with tooth paste is it may make it too smooth. I had a car modeling friend years back that always polished his cars with it to smooth them out before painting . Maybe add a little baking soda to the tooth paste and rub with fingers, then wash in warm water with some dish soap should clean up enough for good paint adhesion. The main thing is to keep it clean of release agents and hand oils.
Most styrene sheets I see for sale to hobbyists do not have a high gloss surface but some do. I agree that paint, and even more so, weathering powders such as Bradgon's, adhere best to styrene that has a bit of "tooth" to the surface rather than a glossy smooth surface. Paint can scratch off a super smooth surface under some conditions.
Rather than sandpaper or emery cloth, don't forget those abrasive pads that are very easily grasped and come in a variety of abrasive levels.
One possible objection to almost any product is, will the process create odd looking lines or swirls that will show through the paint? That is why a coat of dullcoat (the old Dullcoat not the current "improved" version of the spray product) made a good surface for weathering powders - it is uniform. I understand your concerns might extend to spraying Dullcoat in the house -- I prefer to do that work outside, when weather permits.
Toothpaste? Yeah as an above poster mentions, it could end up just polishing the surface -- exactly what you do NOT want. Ditto for Soft Scrub. Their abrasive qualities are so light that they polish as much as abrade. Baking soda might work a bit better. Even table salt lightly dampened might work. (Both baking soda and salt have histories as "home made" tooth powders)
Toothpaste, SoftScrub, baking soda and salt at least all feature easy clean up - water.
Actually, what I suggest is household cleanser powder, such as Old Duth Cleanser or Ajax or Bon Ami or Bartender's Friend, rubbed on with a damp cloth. It has a more directly abrasive quality than toothpaste. Don't water it down too much. I would apply it in vigorous up and down motions to avoid leaving swirls on the plastic surface.
Without knowing just how rough a surface you really want, the other product that occurs to me is the "sand" that painters add to interior house paint. The only problem there is clean up -- you probably don't want that stuff down the sink.
I suspect in any event that the product you are looking for might already be in your house with no separate expenditure necessary.
Dave Nelson
I think the real answer here is for the OP to test it out. Make a simple structure or object from styrene scraps, following your normal fabrication techniques, then try prepping it with toothpaste as suggested. If you can't successfully rinse the residue away, or a coat of paint does not adhere any better than before, then this is not a good suggestion. If it does work well, try it out on your more time-consuming projects. Then, if that succeeds, please let the rest of us know for our future projects.
Tom