Hi,
I've read about using pearl drops in the Athearn gear boxes to break in the gears (these are older units). I can't find this toothpaste anywhere and have seen rumors on Google that it has been discontinued. So my question is, does anybody know of a similar alternative or where I might find Pearl Drops?
Thanks,
Will
will c Hi, I've read about using pearl drops in the Athearn gear boxes to break in the gears (these are older units). I can't find this toothpaste anywhere and have seen rumors on Google that it has been discontinued. So my question is, does anybody know of a similar alternative or where I might find Pearl Drops? Thanks, Will
Didja check out their website? http://www.pearldrops.com/faqs.aspx
Andre
Yeah, but it doesn't seem to answer my question. I thought I'd find an answer more quickly around here.
What? Are we talking hygiene or model railroading? LOL
Michael
CEO- Mile-HI-RailroadPrototype: D&RGW Moffat Line 1989
You could use any kind of tooth paste as a "lapping compound", as all of them have an amount of abrasive material in them. However, you should make sure that nothing of it gets into the motor.
Is there really the need to do this, though. Why don´t you just let the engine run for a while, give it a clean-up and lube job - that should be sufficient.
will c Yeah, but it doesn't seem to answer my question.
Yeah, but it doesn't seem to answer my question.
"Pearl Drops is available at Wal-Mart, Publix and online at Amazon.com and Cosmeticmall.com." does not seem to answer your original problem "I can't find Pearl Drops anywhere" ?
Stein
I would look for wet lightweight lubricants with colloidal particles in suspension, perhaps at an auto parts store- or dry graphite-type powder lubricants which can be cleaned out, if necessary, with an air source, either a spray can or a low pressure compressor source. It would seem that the other ingredients in a toothpaste cream would be a source of attraction for dirt accumulation, more so than light lubes. If you insist on a toothpaste-type product, the Vademacum (spelling?) brand of Swedish toothpaste (available since the 1950s at least) also shares a significant particulate concentration, similar to Pearl Drops.
Just my thought.
Cedarwoodron
I tried this "one" time many years ago on Athearn I had that was a rough runner, didn't cure the problem but sure made a heck of a mess in the gearboxes. I had to end up dunking them in my ultrasonic cleaner to get them clean again.
Turned out the reason it ran rough was bad QC on the universals, and these were made in California.
Mark
Wouldn't any baking soda toothpaste be a suitable alternative? Or for that matter, just baking soda itself? I would be a lot easier to clean out afterwards.
I have figured out what is wrong with my brain! On the left side nothing works right, and on the right side there is nothing left!
Use the Pearl Drops then take the time to disassemble the trucks and clean everything.You will find in the end it is time well spent on your Athearn units.Just remember to lightly lube the trucks with a plastic compatable lubericant when done.
I'm with baking soda, as remember this often used MANY years ago for the same reason and modelers said it worked fine........Old Tom aka papasmurf in NH
Will,
Some years back abrasive toothpaste had some success helping new nylon gears to mesh better, BUT, it was a pain to clean out without disassembling the gear tower and/or the truck. Which defeated the whole process unless you could keep the gears oriented for reassembly.
What we've used for some time is a slurry made from Dremel polishing compound and LaBelle light grade oil. This works on nylon, metal and the newer "slick" engineering plastics. It also can be flushed out with 70% or 91% isopropyl alcohol. The polishing compound and LaBelle oil are available at MicroMark's website [plus many others]. The 70% alcohol is available at Walmart, CVS etc. The 90% we get at Walgreens, its main advantage is when it evaporates, it leaves less moisture behind.
Hope this helps.
Remember, "the mighty oak was once a little nut who held his ground".
Pete, Mount Prospect Short Line owner/operator
The mighty oak was once, just a little NUT who held its ground.
The "old" advice from years ago was to use jewelers rouge polishing compound; then guys started to point out that toothpaste offered similar very light abrasive qualities for less money. That is where Pearl Drops first started to become popular for this, because it was already in liquid form. Pearl Drops, as the name implies, is not a tooth paste and will be found near, but not necessarily with, the toothpastes at the food or drug store. It is a creamly liquid.
As a result of using Pearl Drops an entire generation of model locomotives has been cavity free for decades.
I have not tried this, so I am reluctant to suggest it, but back in the day our great grandmothers used regular fireplace ash to buff and polish silverwear; it has a slight abrasive quality to it. It would need to be mixed with a medium that itself would not harden and dry out. Perhaps a small quantity of dish soap or vinegar? Or cornhusker's lotion?
With any buffing compound or polishing compound, once it has done its magic it needs to be removed completely and the gears need to be re-lubed. That is reason enough not to slather the stuff on, no matter what you use. But the time consuming clean up comes with the territory.
Dave Nelson
I agree w/ Dave on this. Many years ago i used this method on a few of my older Athearns. For all the work involved, it didn,t really make that much difference. Dissassemby of the trucks to wash out remants of old lube, reassembly, adding Pearl Drops, running up the chassis for breakin, always having to add drops of water as the compound would start to dry within minutes, then complete dissassemly to clean and add new lube. Believe me, it's just not worth the trouble. If the ancient gearcase/ truck had issues, it's better to change out the gears or the truck rather than go though this procedure again.
I find that using Labelle 106 (teflon) or as many have found ATF on new slippery gears will work better.
Also after using Pearl drops, you need to reassemble that truck and all gears "exactly" how they were positioned to match up the wear pattern produced from the abrasive.. Repowering w/ a good can motor and changing out the universals in an old Athearn will provide the best improvments in performance.
Modeling B&O- Chessie Bob K. www.ssmrc.org
One thing I tried recently when I could not locate any Pearl Drops was one of the "soft scrub" liquid kitchen cleansers with supended abrasive particles.
I disassembled the trucks from the frame and removed the worm gear, squirted some cleanser in where the worm gear meshes with the spur gears and pushed the truck back and forth on a paper towel. I reapplied the soft scrub once or twice as it ran out onto the towel. After five minutes or so, I completely disassembled the truck, even removing the wheel/axle assemblies from their sleeves, placed all the parts into a kitchesn seive and rinsed them thoroughly under running water. I also inspected the parts, and if I found stubborn cleanser deposits, I loosened them with a toothbrush and rinsed some more. Then I swished all the parts around in a cup of 70% isopropyl alcohol and laid them out on a clean paper towel to dry. The next day, I reassembled the trucks with light lubrication and reattached the drive train.
Net result: some improvement in engine running, but not as much as I had hoped. Will I go to this much trouble again? Maybe. I might try some of the ideas others have suggested on this topic.
Good luck with whatever method you choose.
Tom
steinjr will c: Yeah, but it doesn't seem to answer my question. "Pearl Drops is available at Wal-Mart, Publix and online at Amazon.com and Cosmeticmall.com." does not seem to answer your original problem "I can't find Pearl Drops anywhere" ? Stein
will c: Yeah, but it doesn't seem to answer my question.
Stein,
I saw that. I have been to 5 stores in my town looking for this stuff. Don't accuse me (indirectly) of not researching before posting. And sorry I wasn't more explicit with my OP. I should have said, "I can't find PD at any local stores (including WalMart) and don't want to pay as much or more for shipping as the product costs by ordering online." Is that better? Sheesh.
Don't laugh but I started using "posi-trac" gear lube for automobiles, it has several things suspended in it and it's "slicker than snot on a door knob".
Been using it now for about 10-15 years and not only does it never dry out but once applied that's it, you're good for life.
I really, really like LaBelle products and just tried this on a "whim" but have become a firm believer in the stuff. Get it at the auto parts store and be sure to get the stuff marked for "posi-trac" differentials.
Guys,
These all seem to be good suggestions. Thank you. I am comfortable with tearing apart the gear tower, so that's not a big deal for me. I was just curious about the said product. I have read a few articles one the web and in one of MR's books that suggested Pearl Drops for its abrasive qualities for rapid gear break-in and quieting of the drive train. I'm just trying to do what I can with what I have before I spend the dough to re-motor and re-gear the thing. If I can get it "good enough" for my purposes with $5 in toothpaste or equivalent abrasion method, a little lube, and other small adjustments on my own, then I can maybe put the money saved toward a better unit.
Thanks again,
I too, had read about this for years but had never been able to locate it here or on trips Stateside.
But just here recently, I found it in our local Wal-Mart. So it is still out there, just keep looking.
happy hunting,
Johnboy out...............................
from Saskatchewan, in the Great White North..
We have met the enemy, and he is us............ (Pogo)
Another alternative is to use Abrasive automobile polish.
I couldn't find pearl drops at my local wally world; soI just used what I could find. It worked great and is pretty easy to clean out with some dish soap and warm water.
Vincent
Wants: 1. high-quality, sound equipped, SD40-2s, C636s, C30-7s, and F-units in BN. As for ones that don't cost an arm and a leg, that's out of the question....
2. An end to the limited-production and other crap that makes models harder to get and more expensive.
Ya know, I have some Meguire's rubbing compound at home. I think I'll try that!
GOOD GRIEF, all of you wonderful folks! Buy a loco, see if it runs OK, if it does, enjoy; , if it doesn't dis-assemble it, clean it; then see if it will operate ok. If not, throw it out, buy another and start over again.
This isn't rocket science.
Jimmy
ROUTE ROCK!
P.S. All of you out there, listen to Stein JR and W. Dudler.