Hi!
I've got some HO ATSF "zebra striped" diesel switchers, all "new in the box" and DCC ready (to the best of my knowledge). These have been purchased over the last 5 or 6 years, and I've decided to sell some and use the rest on the layout. They are all of pretty good quality, but I would like to keep the best ones - with "best" being a very subjective term.
Anyway, which of the following would you sell off first? I am not so much concerned with the type of model they represent, as I am with the quality and durability of the running gear, ease of converting to DCC, and quality/detail of the model itself.
Stewart DS4-4-1000
Stewart VO1000
Kato NW2
P2K S1
P2K SW8/900/600
P2K SW9/1200
Thanks for your input - it is valued and appreciated!!!
ENJOY !
Mobilman44
Living in southeast Texas, formerly modeling the "postwar" Santa Fe and Illinois Central
The one that is the most difficult to install DCC in is the Kato NW2. The rest, plug-n-play decoders are available for. The Kato requires some surgery on the frame and some soldering to convert.
But the Kato is the one that I would keep!
All of them sound great. Would be a difficult decision to make. I'd probably opt for hanging on to all of them. That's just me though.
Definately dump the Kato - unless you have an old Tyco you're decideing on also
They're all good, but the two Stewarts are the best by far. They were made by I think Ajin, noted for their brass locos, and have exceptional Canon motors in them. My DS4-4-1000 pulled only 25 milliamps running, and 10-15 of that was probably the headlight LED. Simply amazing.
--Randy
Modeling the Reading Railroad in the 1950's
Visit my web site at www.readingeastpenn.com for construction updates, DCC Info, and more.
FWIW, the Kato NW2 is by far the smoothest running loco I have. It's a jewel. But then you probably already know that.
- Harry
mobilman44I am not so much concerned with the type of model they represent, as I am with the quality and durability of the running gear, ease of converting to DCC, and quality/detail of the model itself.
But, I guess as far as running and durability I would put the Kato & Stewarts over the P2Ks.
Oh, I'm not going to be any help at all. I have all the P2K you mention, and several others.
But because what you have is a nice variety of switchers, I would not part with any of them. And I would seek to add some Alco RS series and a 44 tonner and 70 tonnner. However, I don't know if AT&SF had these latter locos in use...
I see they did have RS-1s and I know they had 44 tonners.
I try to have as wide a variety as possible.
And my P2k SWs run as well as or better than my Kato RSs. Two of the P2K SWs are the quietest I have and a drop in loco specific decoder can be had from NCE.
I have to agree with Texas Zephyr. Based on your criteria the P2K locos should be the first to go. The Stewarts are excellent switchers. I have the same Baldwins on my layout (different roads though) and they are the BEST switchers I have used to date.
Era wasn't mentioned but maybe sell the EMD's and keep the others to keep them from the same general timeframe. Just a thought.
Matt
I've got a P2K S1 and a P2K SW-7. I wouldn't part with either of them. I call them "The Twins." Sorry, they're not blonde, and neither speaks Swedish, but I love them anyway.
I bought the S1 as a consignment item at my LHS for $50. I installed a generic decoder, and replaced the poorly-mounted cab-end headlight with a LED in the cab roof, so I had real light in both directions. It's a solid, heavy puller. In fact, just over the weekend I brought it into my LHS, with orders to install sound.
The SW-7 is very light. They sacrificed weight for factory sound, and the engine has almost no space inside for additional weight. Instead, it has traction tires, which reduces the power pickup to 3 of the 4 axles, but give reasonable pulling capacity.
It takes an iron man to play with a toy iron horse.
I do have a 44 ton switcher, and it is a keeper. Also have several GP7s, GP9s, H16-44, RS1 and RSD5s - but I will be keeping these.
I've got all of them except for the Kato NW2. The Life-Like GM switchers run the best, followed by the Stewart Hobbies Baldwin switchers, and then the Life-Like Alco switchers.
All of 'em..Then I would buy a Atlas Alco switcher or RS1.
Larry
Conductor.
Summerset Ry.
"Stay Alert, Don't get hurt Safety First!"
See this thread, http://cs.trains.com/trccs/forums/t/138996.aspx, for info on converting the Kato NW-2 to DCC. It takes some doing, but they are excellent switchers.
I have two Stewart Baldwins, a VO1000 and a VO660. The VO1000 has a wobble at a certain low speed, but the VO660 runs flawlessly. They were easy to convert to DCC--http://cs.trains.com/trccs/forums/t/138996.aspx
They are a little light, though.
I believe the P2K S1 switcher can be difficult to convert to DCC, as the orange wire to the motor is tied to the frame with a buss: http://litchfieldstation.com/DCC-University/install/HOD/Life-Like-Proto2000-S1.htm
The Protos are a little light, too.
Gary
The P2K Alco switchers aren't really that difficult, you just have to fix that orange wire. It's pretty easy. I have pictures of mine on my web site. Ignore the frame milling to accomodate a Digitrax DH163L0 and use a smaller decoder. I did it more as an experiment than anything. Still could pull quite a few cars. The only ones known to be 'light' are the sound equipped SW's, since they had to take out most of the weight to make room for the speaker and sound board. The non-sound SW is fairly easy to convert using the NCE SW9-SR. All of them - non-sound SW, S2, and my Stewart Baldwin all pulled plenty of cars.
I don't own any of the switchers in question, but I do have a Stewart S12 (same drive as the other switchers). It is certainly the smoothest diesel I've ever owned, and that's comparing it to other quality diesels I have from Kato, Life-Like P2K, Bachmann Standard and Spectrum (which are, BTW, excellent runners), Atlas, Athearn Genesis, etc. The detail is also excellent, and the quality of the detail is far above Kato's. So I'd say keep the Stewarts.
And then coming in close second for smooth running is my old Athearn Hustler with NWSL wheels. It runs fast enough to jump the track, but MAN, is it smooth!!
_________________________________________________________________
They are all good engines and with one exception the conversion to DCC is simple.
The exception is the Kato NW2 - it is a jewel but has a solid metal weight filling the body shell. There is no room for a decoder. You have two location choices for the decoder - put the decoder in the cab where it will be visible or saw away room in the weight - a hard task unless you have access to metal working tools. It also is not DCC ready meaning it doesn't have a DCC plug so you have to hardwire the decoder. If you like decoder work, the effort is worth it. If you want quick and simple, this engine is the one to sell.
Mat
centercabThe one that is the most difficult to install DCC in is the Kato NW2. The rest, plug-n-play decoders are available for. The Kato requires some surgery on the frame and some soldering to convert. But the Kato is the one that I would keep!
I've installed an ESU Loksound micro into my Kato NW2:
Here you will find pictures in progress. And here's my how to .
Wolfgang
Pueblo & Salt Lake RR
Come to us http://www.westportterminal.de my videos my blog
Thanks for your input, it is appreciated. I do hope to get more..........
Interesting that the general feel for the Kato is its a terrific loco, but difficult to add DCC. Also interesting that a great many like the Stewarts, with no one having a negative about them.
What started all this is that I am looking to rebuild my 15 year old 11x15 double layer layout, and in doing so will PROBABLY (not for certain yet) convert to DCC. As I don't do things like this half way, I am looking at a $2k expenditure to "do it right". In working up the numbers, I figure almost half is due to needing decoders for 50 plus locos (6 - ABBA F unit all powered combos + lots of others). So considering that many of the locos are "new in the box", and I certainly won't run all of them, it seems like a good idea to thin them out this year (via Ebay). And, for everyone I sell, I save $18 or so on a decoder! Maybe not the best of logic for some, but it works for me.
Thanks again,
Unlike the expert fit that Wolfgang did to get sound into the NW2, I went for an easier option and mounted the NW2 body onto a BLI chassis.
http://uk.youtube.com/watch?v=wunjQZFpkrg
Jon
Sweethome Chicago is now on Facebook
Sweethome Alabama is now on Facebook
Hudson Road is now on Facebook
my videos
my Railimages
mobilman44 I am looking at a $2k expenditure to "do it right". In working up the numbers, I figure almost half is due to needing decoders for 50 plus locos I sell, I save $18 or so on a decoder! Maybe not the best of logic for some, but it works for me. Thanks again, Mobilman44
I am looking at a $2k expenditure to "do it right". In working up the numbers, I figure almost half is due to needing decoders for 50 plus locos I sell, I save $18 or so on a decoder! Maybe not the best of logic for some, but it works for me.
Yes, You would be wise to downsize to stay under the $2K for the whole layout. I started the hobby two years ago and now have 91 locos --- about 20% with sound and the rest with bulk purchased NCEs @ $13.50 ea. and Digitrax D123s at $15 ea. And my decoder costs alone are greater than your planned outlay. My bad
But that was my desire. I keep em all running in rotation and in a nice display of road colours and steam history when not on the track. There are always a half a dozen or so in "sick bay" waiting for me to tweak up a noisy shell or upgrade to sound or something.
Two years and 91 locos! I'm 40 years in HO and have just over 50. The thing is, I model the Santa Fe in the late '40s and up thru 1959, and only have locos that were around at that time. But I've got about 10 switchers, and could easily spare 6 of them, plus an extra set of E6 ABA and PA ABBA locos. Every year I do an Ebay train sale (had 100 auctions last year), and use the process to thin out and upgrade. Any monies coming in from Ebay go back into the trains. So over the years my old Athearns (great locos/company) got upgraded to Stewarts, P2Ks, etc., and the old Rivorossi steamers got upgraded to BLIs.
ENJOY,
EASY.
Switchers move onlly a few cars at a time, ease of stopping and accuracy iis para mouunt..
Everyone of coourse has their favorites, but but for comparisons beware of single brand owners..I haven't ownened all of those on yourr nlist (and probably has no-one else) so individual condition will come into play.
First off.i would test all on DC. . Stewar'st B'alldwin's with chassis from Ojiin are tough to beat.