I have several classic models from the 70s, Rivarossi streamlined stem engines, classic designs, that are dusty.
Other than soap and water, a rinse, and a towel dry, does anyone have a better way or a way that might brighten the paint? Or should I leave it at a wash & dry?
Please let me be clear: I am not asking how to clean track, or how to clean wheels, or even the layout. I am asking how best to clean dust and airborne grime from painted plastic models to make them look thri best.
Do you know that I found 372 pages on this forum for cleaning track, wheels, layouts, and airbrushes?
Bill, Senior Editor Elder-Gateway.com
rioplumas wrote: I have several classic models from the 70s, Rivarossi streamlined stem engines, classic designs, that are dusty. Other than soap and water, a rinse, and a towel dry, does anyone have a better way or a way that might brighten the paint? Or should I leave it at a wash & dry?Please let me be clear: I am not asking how to clean track, or how to clean wheels, or even the layout. I am asking how best to clean dust and airborne grime from painted plastic models to make them look thri best.Do you know that I found 372 pages on this forum for cleaning track, wheels, layouts, and airbrushes?
How you clean them depends on a couple things: 1) is it just airborne dust that settled on them or 2) is it dust caught in an oily coating?
If dust just settled on them, you can clean it off with a soft brush or blow it off with a canned air like Dust-Off.
If it has an oily coating (common with older models) and the dust landed on that, you need a mild solvent, like rubbing alcohol. I use a foam tip (they're like a cotton swab, but have a small piece of spongy foam instead of cotton. Look in the dollar store in the cosmetics aisle), wet it with the alcohol, and gently wipe the surface that needs cleaning. Once the crud is off, repeat with another swab with more alcohol, followed by a dry swab. This should remove most of the residue.
If you use soapy water, I'd definately recommend that you disassemble the model and NOT get the soapy water on the motor or mechanism.
Rio,
Don't worry you're not alone. Many of us have model locomotives and rolling stock that may sit on shelves for weeks or months at a time without being touched. A layers of dust can build up on them quickly regardless if the home is air conditioned or not.
Methods will vary. I like to keep it simple.
A while back I took a batch of my Proto and Atlas units that were very dusty and removed the shells. They were so dusty that the compressed air couldn't get the dust inside of the nooks and crannies.
1. At my kitchen counter and sink, one by one I sprayed each shell with a spray bottle mix of water and Dawn dishwashing soap.
2. Using an artist's paint brush with a 1/4" wide tip, I gently scrubbed hood walkways, porches, roof fans, etc while the shells were soaking wet.
3. A gentle rinse with warm water and they looked good as new! I didn't even bother blowing them off with compressed air as they dried very quickly.
For those of you with mineral laden water; if you use this method blow the water off to avoid hardwater stains or wash and rinse with distilled water.
As stated, I appreciate simplicity.
"I like my Pullman Standards & Budds in Stainless Steel flavors, thank you!"
If you use the "soap & water" method and are not happy with the paint finish's appearance, then you can try to:
1. Buff out and/or polish the factory paint on your shells. Rivorossi used lacquers and enamels. Automotive finishing glazes, such as the ones from Meguires and 3M are usable and gentle enough. You can even apply wax (but don't use Turtle Wax!) . Polishing cloths can be used as well as cotton material (such as that from a soft T-shirt). You'd have to use caution as paint methods varied from each manufacturer. Some products received very thin coats of paint while others received one thick coat.
2. You can take the overall approach and paint refinish your shells.
Just curious, but are you trying to achieve a "premium appearance" to display your models?
Thanks for the tips, but, no, I am looking for like new, nothing artificial or beyond the original finish.
Besides the dirt and dust, one of the models (a Rivarossi Blue Goose 4-6-4) may look a tad yellowish. That may respond to the alcohol sponge tip bath mentioned above if it is from an oily coating.
(handle should be rio de las plumas, the original Spanish name for the feather river, but I was lazy)
rioplumas wrote: Besides the dirt and dust, one of the models (a Rivarossi Blue Goose 4-6-4) may look a tad yellowish. That may respond to the alcohol sponge tip bath mentioned above if it is from an oily coating.(handle should be rio de las plumas, the original Spanish name for the feather river, but I was lazy)
The yellow cast could also be that someone tried to clear coat the model, usually to tone down the shine. Some of the older (70's era) clear coats would turn yellow over time. I hope this isn't what happened to your models. If it is just grease/oil with the dust, the alcohol swab should work just fine. Rub slowly and don't press too hard, especially on the lettering. If it was just stamped, the alcohol may fade it.
Phil, I'm not a rocket scientist; they are my students.