Never try to quick dry the paint on your new AC4400 by puting it in front of a ceramic heater and forgeting about it.
Jerry SP FOREVER http://photobucket.com/albums/f317/GAPPLEG/
cwclark wrote: Never use Gorilla Glue on anything model railroad related. (I'm still trying to chisel off those big foaming blobs of rock hard glue between the flatcar floor and the load.) chuck
Never use Gorilla Glue on anything model railroad related. (I'm still trying to chisel off those big foaming blobs of rock hard glue between the flatcar floor and the load.)
chuck
Uh Oh
*runs to layout room..................
Never ask anyone to plug in your soldering iron while trying to fix a extension cord on the table in front of you. While unnerving it can be shocking.
Johnnny_reb
Johnnny_reb Once a word is spoken it can not be unspoken!
My Train Page My Photobucket Page My YouTube Channel
shayfan84325 wrote:I've got to be serious for a second. A lot of you tell about x-acto knife injuries; I urge you to consider the number 16 blade instead of the number 11. Click here to see the number 16: http://www.ares-server.com/Ares/Ares.asp?MerchantID=RET01229&Action=Catalog&Type=Product&ID=50279It has a shorter sharp edge so your mistakes may require a band-aid instead of stitches. I use both 11s and 16s and I find that the #16 stays sharp longer because the tip is less fragile and I cut myself less frequently and less seriously
Click here to see the number 16: http://www.ares-server.com/Ares/Ares.asp?MerchantID=RET01229&Action=Catalog&Type=Product&ID=50279
It has a shorter sharp edge so your mistakes may require a band-aid instead of stitches. I use both 11s and 16s and I find that the #16 stays sharp longer because the tip is less fragile and I cut myself less frequently and less seriously
That may be very true, but the answer to this is simple: Those blades are running at 15 for $7.45 (50cent a blade) while real Xacto #11 are running 25.77 for a 100pc bulk pack (26 cents a blade), but in reality there's knock-offs #11 (about as good) for a third or more less. And when either blade dulls about the same, the price trumps all...
Artur wrote:Don't let the cat walk on your unfinished layout, ever. Even if he is gingerly and innocently investigating and smelling everything especially the powered track with his wet nose, now thats not a problem the problem is him rampaging from one end of the layout to the other after getting a shock of his life.
2 Things 1. You use DCC I assume? and 2. What is your track voltage?
chutton01 wrote: shayfan84325 wrote:I've got to be serious for a second. A lot of you tell about x-acto knife injuries; I urge you to consider the number 16 blade instead of the number 11. Click here to see the number 16: http://www.ares-server.com/Ares/Ares.asp?MerchantID=RET01229&Action=Catalog&Type=Product&ID=50279It has a shorter sharp edge so your mistakes may require a band-aid instead of stitches. I use both 11s and 16s and I find that the #16 stays sharp longer because the tip is less fragile and I cut myself less frequently and less seriouslyThat may be very true, but the answer to this is simple: Those blades are running at 15 for $7.45 (50cent a blade) while real Xacto #11 are running 25.77 for a 100pc bulk pack (26 cents a blade), but in reality there's knock-offs #11 (about as good) for a third or more less. And when either blade dulls about the same, the price trumps all...
Everyone has their price. Once I cut my finger pretty bad, it's been 20 years and there's still a portion of it without any feeling - it's permanently numb. For what I'd pay to undo that injury, I could buy a lot of 50 cent blades. We all make choices, and live with the outcomes.
-Phil
Phil, I'm not a rocket scientist; they are my students.
Never let your cat on a grass mat, if it's just drank water...
Never leave cords on the foor when you have two puppies.
Never look away when cutting stuff with a bandsaw. (got part of my fingernail cut off)
Leave the layout unattended, when my little brother's freinds are over. (I find holes in everything, and the occasional BB [yeah shoots them])
Never let your sister use your brushes. You won't be able to use them again.
Never buy anything that's company brand is under 2 words long, but longer than 6 letters
Don't use plastic glue when working on your foamboard. (more holes)
Never let anyone touch any of your proto 2000s, and always ask for pictuers before buying on E-bay. (my second SD9, i learned my lesson; but I fixed it)
Vincent
Wants: 1. high-quality, sound equipped, SD40-2s, C636s, C30-7s, and F-units in BN. As for ones that don't cost an arm and a leg, that's out of the question....
2. An end to the limited-production and other crap that makes models harder to get and more expensive.
When you find that the office chair you use while at the bench has developed cracks in the vynl arm rests, go ahead and use super glue to repair it, but DO NOT forget that it is there, and still wet.
Yes, Personal experience...........
RJ
"Something hidden, Go and find it. Go and look behind the ranges, Something lost behind the ranges. Lost and waiting for you. Go." The Explorers - Rudyard Kipling
http://sweetwater-photography.com/
I'm sure all of you went after all your accidents.
By the way, don't forget after you modified Marias Pass in Train Sim that the track over Glaceir River dead ends....which results in the entire train going ewwwwwwwwwwBOOM!
loathar wrote: Man law!Don't forget how bad it felt last time you sliced your hand open with that razor knife before you use it again...
Man law!
Don't forget how bad it felt last time you sliced your hand open with that razor knife before you use it again...
You had to remind me of that didn't you? <shakes his finger with the 1" scar>
Don - Specializing in layout DC->DCC conversions
Modeling C&O transition era and steel industries There's Nothing Like Big Steam!
shayfan84325 wrote: chutton01 wrote: shayfan84325 wrote:I've got to be serious for a second. A lot of you tell about x-acto knife injuries; I urge you to consider the number 16 blade instead of the number 11. Click here to see the number 16: http://www.ares-server.com/Ares/Ares.asp?MerchantID=RET01229&Action=Catalog&Type=Product&ID=50279It has a shorter sharp edge so your mistakes may require a band-aid instead of stitches. I use both 11s and 16s and I find that the #16 stays sharp longer because the tip is less fragile and I cut myself less frequently and less seriouslyThat may be very true, but the answer to this is simple: Those blades are running at 15 for $7.45 (50cent a blade) while real Xacto #11 are running 25.77 for a 100pc bulk pack (26 cents a blade), but in reality there's knock-offs #11 (about as good) for a third or more less. And when either blade dulls about the same, the price trumps all...Everyone has their price. Once I cut my finger pretty bad, it's been 20 years and there's still a portion of it without any feeling - it's permanently numb. For what I'd pay to undo that injury, I could buy a lot of 50 cent blades. We all make choices, and live with the outcomes.-Phil
I agree with using #16's - I have used them for years without a problem. When I started out I used an 11 because it was in the handle of the Xacto set I bought. Fortunately, I didn't cut myself but I came close and switched to 16's. I find them much safer to use.
Enjoy
Paul
When carefully breaking the glass off of a 150 Watt light bulb in order to see the filament burn when turned on, DO NOT UNDER ANY CIRCUMSTANCES EVER RECONNECT THE FILLIMENT WITHOUT FIRST TURNING OFF THE LIGHT!!! :D
TA462 wrote:Never put a 3/4 full bottle of beer on a empty flat car in the middle of a train just to see if it will go around the layout before first checking if it will clear the width of all your girder bridges.
I can totally see that happening
Thought of this a few minutes ago after putting a coat of paint in our bathroom.
NEVER place your brushes, paint roller AND roller pan in the dish washer thinking it will be quicker/easier to clean after painting the train room.
Beleive me, I actually considered it...........MAN DO I HATE PAINTING!!!!!
I bet you were using Latex paint... right?I would also bet that you would disagree with the claims that Latex paint makes painting easier... right?Does painting makes you agitated and feel grumpy?Do you notice that people don't like to be around you while you are painting?
I used to hate to paint, and my dear sweet wife tried her best to help me paint the house once and invited some folk from church to help also. One came but they both stayed on the other side of the house from me the whole time. I couldn't figure out how come they seemed to like painting and why they stayed away from me.
Years later I learned I am allergic to Latex. I have since tried oil based paint and found that painting is not all that bad, and, more importantly, I am a nicer person to be around when painting!
Try "oil based" paint next time. See if it is "better" for "you".
Semper Vaporo
Pkgs.
YEP, its latex.
I just plain hate painting if it involves being neat. Give me a paint booth/room where it doesn't matter if paint hits the floor/walls and I'm happy.....happier......not as sad about painting......yep that sounds good.
DON'T try on a freshly knitted scarf that your fiance' made for you at the workbench & swing it around your neck & knocking your coil car project on the floor. Put a crack in one of the stirrups-could've been worse!
Don't forget the boxcar from that derailment from six months ago. Found it between two bridges. One time I found an entire train(however short) in a tunnel.
Never run a 50-car chem train backwards on a slope and a curve...on a fill...and in winter.
The result?(this was in MSTS) BNSF is disputed and me saying how did it.......?!?!
Red Horse wrote:A Jack Russell Terrorist can swallow an N scale bench but can't swallow an HO...."Never leave N scale park benches out around the dog".
wife- "Honey, what in the world are you doing???'
you- "Just waiting the dog to give my park bench back....."
Mans best friend is not always the layouts best friend. Large drooling dogs are bad. X-large drooling dogs are worse (english mastiff, x 2)
Test the helix module you just made by setting a couple boxcars up top and "letting them rip" without having track connected at the bottom
see if the soldering pen is hot by holding it "near " your lip. It is, and your depth perception will be off, just a little
try to unspool more solder with the same lips in the middle of soldering
think it's ok that the steam loco has smoke coming out, even tho you never put fluid in it,ever.
use chlorinated parts cleaner on the rivirossi motor in the tender (or anywhere else)
when you DO catch the soldering pen, you still lose
Use too much CA when trying to assemble a DPM kit too fast. You will bond fingers from both hands to opposite corners
CA is strong. When you rip your fingers off a freight bldg, resist the urge to immediately put your fingers together
framing hammers are not for track nails
When you are dealing with little parts that don't fit together well and are really getting you worked up, keep on trying harder and use bigger tools
NEVER EVER let your mother know you are remotely interested in model RR. She will quickly go shopping at Odd Lots and get every .99 item she can get. She will then make you drive 250 miles round trip to get items and want pictures of it on the layout, even the G.I. Joe
tinman1 wrote:NEVER EVER let your mother know you are remotely interested in model RR. She will quickly go shopping at Odd Lots and get every .99 item she can get. She will then make you drive 250 miles round trip to get items and want pictures of it on the layout, even the G.I. Joe