Thanks Rio Grande, that certainly makes sense.
I just got off of the Digitrax web sight and figure the whole kit & kaboodle (super chief premium and power supply and handful of decoders) will run about $1k and probably more. But, considering I have been playing with trains for 55 years or so, and hope to do so for another 15 or 20, that is not too bad.
One question, I will obviously need a number of similar decoders as I have a lot of Stewart and Proto 2k locos. Where can you get them "in bulk" - from Digitrax or ???
Thanks,
Mobilman44
ENJOY !
Living in southeast Texas, formerly modeling the "postwar" Santa Fe and Illinois Central
jfugate wrote: But adding sound to your locos is addictive, so be careful! Once you get used to sound, your non-sound locos just aren't nearly as much fun to run.
But adding sound to your locos is addictive, so be careful! Once you get used to sound, your non-sound locos just aren't nearly as much fun to run.
Aint that the truth.
Ted M.
got trains?™
See my photos at: http://tedmarshall.rrpicturearchives.net/
mobilman44 wrote:One question, I will obviously need a number of similar decoders as I have a lot of Stewart and Proto 2k locos. Where can you get them "in bulk" - from Digitrax or ???
Mobilman,
Empire Northern Models is a very good place to pick up bulk DCC supplies. Tim has some of the best prices around. He can also give you some great advice on how to best wire these up.
For my Stewart FT A-Bs, I installed a Lenz Gold series decoder. Since it comes with BEMF (or Back EMF), it's absolultely crawls at speed step 001.
Tom
https://tstage9.wixsite.com/nyc-modeling
Time...It marches on...without ever turning around to see if anyone is even keeping in step.
Tstage, thanks for the info!
"Dumb" question............. If one has a Digitrax (or NCE or Lenz) system, do you have to use the decoders from that particular company? If not, what are the advantages?
Like some other "old guys" in model railroading (I'm 63), I'm pretty good with the mechanical aspects of the hobby (benchwork, tracklaying, design, and DC wiring, etc.). But the new-fangled electronics has just never been easy for me to grasp. Obviously, that has held me back from converting to DCC.
What I need is a "DCC Made Simple for Idiots" book. Do you know of any????
Thanks again,
Remember, a brain is a dangerous thing........................
ami6 wrote: One important thing is, Buy a system with a computerinterface, and download DecoderPro. It makes everything easier to use and easier to understand.
One important thing is, Buy a system with a computerinterface, and download DecoderPro. It makes everything easier to use and easier to understand.
I disagree. For those who just want to simply switch over to DCC and run trains, throwing a computer interface and a software program and having to buy some cheap computer to run it all only makes it more overwhelmingly complicated. You're going to scare those off who are computer illiterate.
A) Buy a starter system
B) Run trains
riogrande5761 wrote: Glad most resisted the troll comments.
Glad most resisted the troll comments.
The only one commenting on trolls in this thread is you.
If I didn't know any better I'd say you miss those trolls
Hi,
Just got back from a LHS and got to play with their Prodigy unit that runs a sizeable store layout. I liked the display and the rotary throttle, but was not thrilled with the handheld unit as it seemed awkward (not a showstopper however).
After hearing my "requirements", he seemed to think the NCE was my best bet. The store handles NCE, Digitrax and Prodigy. Anyway, I picked up Kalmbach's "DCC Made Easy" book and will use that to get more educated on the subject.
As someone once said on tv........ "I'm soooo confused.........."
mobilman44 wrote: Hi,Just got back from a LHS and got to play with their Prodigy unit that runs a sizeable store layout. I liked the display and the rotary throttle, but was not thrilled with the handheld unit as it seemed awkward (not a showstopper however).After hearing my "requirements", he seemed to think the NCE was my best bet. The store handles NCE, Digitrax and Prodigy. Anyway, I picked up Kalmbach's "DCC Made Easy" book and will use that to get more educated on the subject.As someone once said on tv........ "I'm soooo confused.........." Thanks,Mobilman44
I've used the prodigy throttle before and do find it awkward. The problem is they put the potentiometer down the bottom, so it takes two hands to run the engine and blow the whistle. It also feels cheap.
mobilman44 wrote: Hi,Just got back from a LHS and got to play with their Prodigy unit that runs a sizeable store layout. I liked the display and the rotary throttle, but was not thrilled with the handheld unit as it seemed awkward (not a showstopper however).After hearing my "requirements", he seemed to think the NCE was my best bet. The store handles NCE, Digitrax and Prodigy. Anyway, I picked up Kalmbach's "DCC Made Easy" book and will use that to get more educated on the subject.
I almost did as you thought and at the last minute I decieded to read the one at the library first.
I'm very happy I did - after I was done reading the copy at the library, I felt that I realy didn't know much more than I did before I read the book - almost as if it was designed to give a taste of DCC, but, not enough to realy make a good choice and make the reader feel the need to obtaine another book about DCC for more info.
Greg H. wrote: mobilman44 wrote: Hi,Just got back from a LHS and got to play with their Prodigy unit that runs a sizeable store layout. I liked the display and the rotary throttle, but was not thrilled with the handheld unit as it seemed awkward (not a showstopper however).After hearing my "requirements", he seemed to think the NCE was my best bet. The store handles NCE, Digitrax and Prodigy. Anyway, I picked up Kalmbach's "DCC Made Easy" book and will use that to get more educated on the subject.I almost did as you thought and at the last minute I decieded to read the one at the library first.I'm very happy I did - after I was done reading the copy at the library, I felt that I realy didn't know much more than I did before I read the book - almost as if it was designed to give a taste of DCC, but, not enough to realy make a good choice and make the reader feel the need to obtaine another book about DCC for more info.
The problem I think you'll find with any book is that it will be outdated before it is even complete. The foundation stays the same, but the implementations change almost daily. And the implementation is what differentiates the systems. Which leaves wod of mouth, forums, and reviews as the main unbiased sources of information. The other place I utilize to learn about the different systems is the manuals for each system, which are usually available on the manufacturers' web sites. It is not unbiased information, but I find that it helps my understanding about each system, as well as DCC in general. I also look at the NMRA specs now and then, but I have to admit to being a it of a geek.....
Jeff But it's a dry heat!
Greg H. wrote:I almost did as you thought and at the last minute I decieded to read the one at the library first.I'm very happy I did - after I was done reading the copy at the library, I felt that I realy didn't know much more than I did before I read the book - almost as if it was designed to give a taste of DCC, but, not enough to realy make a good choice and make the reader feel the need to obtaine another book about DCC for more info.
Greg,
I think you missed the point of Lionel's book. It's meant as a elementary explanation and primer of how DCC works in very understandable terms - particularly for those who don't have a background in electronics and/or would struggle with manuals that are "heavy" on terminology.
I can't tell you how many books I've read where the author begins simply enough...then all of a sudden shifts into third and leaves you in a cloud of dust because he or she "assumes" too much from the reader. I actually found "DCC Made Easy" refreshing. I wish authors did a better job of filling the reader in on basic ideas and concepts before expounding on them.
mobilman44:
My own DCC experience is with the AtlasMaster and MRC Prodigy Advance systems. Both work as well as advertised. After considering a purchase of the Digitrax Super Empire Builder to upgrade from the AtlasMaster system (which my son still uses to operate his Lego trains), I found that the Prodigy Advance system promised almost all of the same features but at a price that would allow me to by the entire system plus a second Prodigy Advance handheld for the same price as the Digitrax SEB starter system less a power supply.
As far as operating the system, the Prodigy Advance could hardly be more simple. Should you want to select a locomotive, press the "LOCO" button, enter the desired address, the press the "ENTER" button. You are now in control of the desired locomotive. Need to program a four digit address? Press the "PROG" button once to program on a separate program track, twice to program on the main line. Enter the number of the locomotive you wish to reprogram and press "ENTER". Now enter the new address (2, 3, or 4 digits) and press the "ENTER" button. Your loco now has a new address, even on the main without reprogramming any other locos on the main. The system manual is very brief compared to other systems and the major instructions are printed right in the back of the handheld. You don't need to be computer literate to operate this system. My kids find the system fun and easy, too!
While I can't comment on other systems, I have found the MRC Prodigy Advance system to be everything I need.
Hornblower
Good Morning!
Thank you all for your comments and opinions - and believe me, I value them all.
The book "DCC made Easy" was a major help to me, giving me some much needed basic knowledge. The fellow at the LHS told me it was out of date, but for my purpose it was just fine. In short, I find the basic premise of DCC easy to understand, but for a layout of size with reverse loops, etc. it can be much more complicated.
My existing DC layout is progressing, with only about 20 ft2 scenery to finish, including roads and people and some additional structures. I am going to "complete" it, and enjoy it until I decide to rebuild - which may be within 12 months or so. The rebuild will either be DCC operated, or wired for DCC but hooked up as DC. Goodness, in 12 months there may be many changes out there to make the decision easier.
Again, thank you all!!!!
ENJOY,
tstage wrote:Greg, I think you missed the point of Lionel's book. It's meant as a elementary explanation and primer of how DCC works in very understandable terms - particularly for those who don't have a background in electronics and/or would struggle with manuals that are "heavy" on terminology. I can't tell you how many books I've read where the author begins simply enough...then all of a sudden shifts into third and leaves you in a cloud of dust because he or she "assumes" too much from the reader. I actually found "DCC Made Easy" refreshing. I wish authors did a better job of filling the reader in on basic ideas and concepts before expounding on them.Tom
Perhaps I did misunderstand the book.
I did think that it would expand on the basics as presented in the basic wireing book, but, to me, all it did was take what was in one chapter and streach it out to fill a book.
I honistly thought that it would give enough info to help me decied between the different systems - and in that regard I felt it left me more confused than ever.
Mobilman44, I am a idiot and I figured out the wring. My bench had tow main lines one powred by a MRC 9500 and other one by a MRC 2400. Had plactic joiner's where the two line hooked to each other at the cross overs. Each line had it own power blocks for the feeders. All I did was hook wires to the blocks to my power booster and off they went! I do not have any reversing loops, more than likely you do. Mrc and other companys make auto reversers that will change the polatry on it own. Think the MRC is around $34.00 or so.
If you like to go sound for under $150.00 try the Blue Line by BLI. I have a GE AC 6000 UP and it sounds great! I got mine from K-10 Trains for $120.00 and a Digitrax DN143IP decoder for $27.95. $147.95 for a sound engine is not bad.
Before it is pointed out it's a N-Scale deoder I know that. It was one of 4 BLI had listed for the engine. Tight fit where the decoder goes.
Cuda Ken
I hate Rust