Help replacing headlight in Atlas YB RS-1

[tstage]

Matt,

Since your initial pilot hole didn't crack the light pipe, I'm guessing your 1/8" OD drill bit was on the dull side and that's what stressed the hole, which lead to the cracking.

I agree with Dave about drilling a much smaller initial pilot hole then using 2-3 incrementally larger drill bit sizes before drilling the final hole.  Also make sure your final drill bit is sharp.

Another suggestion: Shrink a 1/4" long piece of 1/8" OD black heatshrink around the bulb of your LED.  If the heatshrink is thin, it might allow you to press-fit the LED into the 1/8" hole.  And, if you make the heatshrink a little longer, you can shrink it over the back of the LED, too.

In regards to the #32 drill bit, check your local Ace Hardware.  Mine actually sells # drill bits individually.

FWIW,

Tom

[crossthedog]

tstage

Since your initial pilot hole didn't crack the light pipe, I'm guessing your 1/8" OD drill bit was on the dull side and that's what stressed the hole, which lead to the cracking.

Likely. And as I mentioned, the light bar is thin (vertically) toward the middle of the shell and gets gradually thicker at the lens end. I probably needed to cut the bar closer to the lens, where the drilling surface would be "taller" and there would be more room for the larger hole. I was worried that cutting the bar any closer would make the number boards not get enough light, but I needn't have worried. The light coming out of the number board slots will put your eye out.

-Matt

[crossthedog]

Turns out I had some really small drill bits. I cut the second light bar a little shorter and started with a drill bit smaller than the one I use to drill holes in ties for track nails. Then worked my way up to what apparently was a #32, because when I went to see how the hole compared to the LED bulb, this happened...

The fit was perfect. So now I have a bright headlight at both ends.

I know from the discussion above that both lights wouldn't often be on at the same time, but I like it and it works for me, at least until such a time as I feel I have the patience to try to implement more complex lighting. 

Thanks everyone but hats off especially to Tom for the drilling idea.

-Matt

[PC101]

Lookin good.

[wjstix]

crossthedog

I might keep an eye out for those green boards and if I get a couple of them I could put them in several engines that would make a good mu consist.

Buying a new lightboard from Atlas for $22 wouldn't really make much sense. Since many folks remove the lightboard when they add a decoder (several companies make 'drop-in' decoders that are shaped like the lightboard they're replacing) and toss them, you might be able to pick one up for free. You can buy diodes and resistors online for very little money that will do what you want to do. 

Ho Pc Board Compatible With Rs-1, Ho Master Locomotive Spare Parts, Atlas Model Railroad (atlasrr.com)