That is why I asked if anyone is using thr JTD873GR. I want to know where they are connection the Anodes an if there is a way I can seperate them. The drawing of the wite harness looks like it could be between the LED in the ends of the wires.
Harold
Unfortunately they are exactly backwards for what the IRDOT wants. The IRDOT diagram shows the LEDs with both cathodes to pin 6, and the individual anodes to 2 and 5. You need a common cathode signal.
--Randy
Modeling the Reading Railroad in the 1950's
Visit my web site at www.readingeastpenn.com for construction updates, DCC Info, and more.
I was seeing the same thing. I wonder if they tied these internally. Is anyone reading this post using a JTD873GR? If so please join the conversation.
wolfman hal Am going to able to make it work with the IRDOT-1 in the first post and what would be the connections 1-6
from https://heathcote-electronics.co.uk/irdot1.html
This is as detailed below, but full instructions are supplied with the IRDOT-1.
Terminal 1 Connects to the positive terminal of the power supply
Terminal 2 Electronic switch (open collector transistor) for connection to our other units such as SA8.
Terminal 3 11 volts output used for relays and undetected LEDs
Terminal 4 Not used
Terminal 5 Connects to the long leg of the LED
Terminal 6 Connects to the negative power supply and short leg of LED
from above, the IRDOT-1 circuit has a built in resistor for the Red LED. you would need a direct connection to the anode of the Red LED.
And while a resistor needs to be in series with the Anode of the Green LED, connected to pin 3, you also need direct access to the Green anode to connect to pin 2.
the cathode of both LEDs would be connected to pin 6 which is simply ground.
unfortunately, the wiring shown ties the anodes of both LEDs together and to a common series resistor. Can't see how the wiring reaches the LEDs. Perhaps you can disconnect it from the LEDs
greg - Philadelphia & Reading / Reading
I am only going to use a 2 color system. Am going to able to make it work with the IRDOT-1 in the first post and what would be the connections 1-6
[quote user="wolfman hal"]
Thanks for the drawing they really are good. OK Now for another question. While looking for LED's online ( Not Bulbs) I came across Mod # JTD873GR signal. These will look good in the back part of the layout.
Here is my question. Hopefulling the image will show but if not here is the question.
It shows Red lead to Cathode Green lead to Cathode and a black lead with Resistor as common anode. Looking at the first post wiring diagram will this work and is please note the connections.
See if this works
Thanks Greg,
I didn't know what he was doing wrong.
Dave
I'm just a dude with a bad back having a lot of fun with model trains, and finally building a layout!
wolfman hal Ok I am trying IMGUR. I have taken an image of the two types of signals. The one still will be detailed. Harold
Ok I am trying IMGUR. I have taken an image of the two types of signals. The one still will be detailed.
your copying the web page which includes a photo. On that page you need to put the mouse over the photo and right click (chrome) and "copy image address" (e.g. https://i.imgur.com/E8RNQPb.jpg).
on this forum, when inserting/edit image, enter the the image address with a .jpg, .png, .gif suffix
Hi Harold,
Your images are not showing in your post. All we are getting are icons which link back to your photos. I don't know what you are doing wrong, but please refer back to my photo posting instructions in order to get the actual pictures to show in your post.
Cheers,
Harold,
If you are building searchlight signals you might find this helpful:
Credit to gmpullman (ED) for the image.
wolfman halI have the circuit made on my bench and it works fine. My question is how do you handle the ancote/ cachode to go into the mast? I assume the two must also be insulated from one another.
If you are using 3 mm LEDs then you have to attach smaller wires to the anode and cathode. In my previous post I showed a link to a source for smaller wire. Obviously, the leads have to be kept separate.
If you are only using single colour LEDs then you can solder one lead to the mast and then you only need to feed one wire down the mast for each LED. Make sure you are soldering the same lead (i.e. anode or cathode) to the mast for multiple LEDs.
wolfman hal What I need to know is how you handle the Anode and Cathode leeds coming from the LED's with no wires attached? The pictures with wires attatched I have seen have bulkey connections. Are there 3mm LED's Red & Green with small wires attached? The ones I saw would not fit down the mast.
Hi again Harold,
As you have already concluded, the 3 mm LEDs (please stop referring to them as 'bulbs' - that only confuses the issue) with the leads attached won't work. That means that you have to attach your own leads. Do you have a soldering iron, and if so, what kind?
The wires that you solder to the LEDs can be very fine because the LEDs draw very little power. You can use 38 ga. 'magnet wire' or # 30 ga. insulated wire like this:
https://www.ngineering.com/accessories.htm
If you choose the #30 ga. wire you should invest in a specialized small gauge wire stripper like this because the teflon insulation is a challenge to remove:
https://www.digikey.ca/product-detail/en/jonard-tools/ST-450/K545-ND/1990301
To strip the magnet wire, just put a small blob of solder on the tip of your iron and draw the wire through it.
wolfman halI can't tell from the pic but are theses LED's round fronts for the signals. What model # is correct?
The LEDs in the signal I showed are 3 mm bi-colour with two leads. These are the LEDs:
https://www.ebay.ca/itm/100PCS-2pins-F3-3mm-Dual-Bi-Color-Polar-Changing-Red-Green-Led-Diffused-Leds/291991445367?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649
Two leads are fine if you only want red/green signals. If you want red/yellow/green signals then a three lead 3 mm LED will work but the yellow indication colour may not very 'true'. If you want red/yellow/green indications with strong colours then the LEDs that Mel recommended are your best bet:
wolfman hal2. These signals are Brass. You mentioned that I could use three wires. Could you draw me a diagram?
You don't really need a diagram. If you have four wires coming from two LEDs and you can't fit four wires inside the mast, then just solder one of the wires to the top of the mast and solder another wire to the bottom of the mast. That still gives you four connections but only three wires inside the mast.
wolfman halHow do you get the photos on your post?
First, you need to chose a photo hosting site like Imgur and transfer the photos that you want to post to that site. There are several sites that offer free photo hosting but I have found Imgur to be the most reliable.
https://imgur.com/
First, start your post and write the text until you get to the point where you want to insert your photograph. Next, you need to transfer your photos to the hosting site. Open a new browsing window and go to your photo hosting site. In Imgur, once you have signed in, click on your user name and then click on 'Images'. That will open a window with the option to 'Browse' Click on that and you will be taken to your computer's files. Find the photo you want and double click on it.
If the Gods are happy, the Imgur screen should re-appear and your photo should show up in a few seconds as a thumbnail picture. Click on the thumbnail to enlarge it, and to the right of the picture you will see several options. Click on 'Copy' beside the 'Direct Link' option.
Next, go back to your post and put the cursor where you want the photo to appear. In the toolbars across the top of the post you will see an icon that looks like mountains with the sun above. Click on that. A window will appear. Place your cursor in the top box and left click. Select 'Paste'. Then click 'OK'. Your photo should appear in your post.
Sounds complicated, but once you have done it a couple of times it's easy.
I'm going to answer more of your questions in another post.
wolfman halPS I am trying to see if this posted https://photos.shutterfly.com/full/85102222943
We can't see anything.
A friend of mine is an orthopedic surgeon. He says the definition of an orthopedic surgeon is someone who does an operation, that he has never done before, and the first time he does it, he modifies it.
And doesn't know he's modified it.
You have modified this part of the instructions:
Whatever hosting site you use, make sure your settings allow your photo to be viewed by anyone, or all you'll get is a broken-image icon. The Model Railroader User Gallery won't work, because it requires you to be logged in. Any site that requires a login won't work, even if visibility is set to Public. That includes Facebook, Twitter, Instagram, and the like.
Henry
COB Potomac & Northern
Shenandoah Valley
I have the circuit made on my bench and it works fine. My question is how do you handle the ancote/ cachode to go into the mast? I assume the two must also be insulated from one another.
PS I am trying to see if this posted
https://photos.shutterfly.com/full/85102222943
What I need to know is how you handle the Anode and Cathode leeds coming from the LED's with no wires attached?
Look at how they are attached in the pictures of this ebay signal
Posting pictures, you have to follow the instructions in the sticky post. Forget anything you think you knew about posting pictures anywhere else.
wolfman hal4. What I need to know is how you handle the Anode and Cathode leeds coming from the LED's with no wires attached? The pictures with wires attatched I have seen have bulkey connections. Are there 3mm LED's Red & Green with small wires attached? The ones I saw would not fit down the mast.
i would solder wires to the LED and then with a 1k resistor connected to the the + terminal of 5V, touch one LED wire to the resistor and the other to ground. It will only light when connected properly. Solder the resistor to mark either anode or cathode or tie a know in one of the wires.
wolfman hal5. Also. How are you getting pictures posted on this site. I could probably do a lot better with pics.
see 1st link, "How to Post a Photo on the Forum" on the General Discussions Forum page
Ok
Let me clarify A few things
1. I am modeling in HO Scale.
2. I am going to be using the IRDOT - 1 with the curcuit described in the first post. I have tested it and it works perfectly and I have several of them.
3. I did not know the size of the 603 and will be using the 3 mm bulbs. Several of the masts have 2 Seperate heads so I want to use seperate Red and Green Bulbs
4. What I need to know is how you handle the Anode and Cathode leeds coming from the LED's with no wires attached? The pictures with wires attatched I have seen have bulkey connections. Are there 3mm LED's Red & Green with small wires attached? The ones I saw would not fit down the mast.
5. Also. How are you getting pictures posted on this site. I could probably do a lot better with pics.
Ok Dave
A couple of new questions
1. I can't tell from the pic but are theses LED's round fronts for the signals. What model # is correct?
2. These signals are Brass. You mentioned that I could use three wires. Could you draw me a diagram?
3. How do you get the photos on your post?
The base on one of them has a detailed box for a base. Several have an extension that would drill down into the layout.
Stay Safe
wolfman halHave you used these bulbs?
Yes I have used lots of them.
wolfman halAt a penny apiece I get nervous.
Yes, after re-reading the ad I'm a little skeptical about that too. I think the pricing may be misleading. I'm guessing that the price is $0.99 for each LED. That is not a bad price, but the minimum quantity is 100 LEDs.
If you are doing signals maybe try these guys instead:
https://www.ebay.ca/itm/20pcs-Pre-soldered-litz-wired-leads-Bi-color-RED-GREEN-SMD-LED-0605-DT0605RG/352703376925?hash=item521ec26e1d:g:wtQAAOSwxCxT34Kw
Be aware that the wires on these are rather large and you may not be able to fit them all into a 3/32" dia. (HO scale) mast if you are doing double headed signals. The wires on the first LED listing are much smaller.
wolfman halThe area I need to get into is very small ( Signal Masts ). Is anything except the wire protruding from the bulb.
There is nothing else attached to the LED except the wires.
If you solder the wires on yourself you can use magnet wire which will fit inside the masts easily even for triple heads. I can explain how I solder on my own leads. With the right equipment it isn't that hard. Here are some un-wired RG LEDs:
https://www.ebay.ca/itm/0605RG-100pcs-SMD-LED-0605-Bi-Color-Red-Green-LEDs-Everest-NEW/202283939298?hash=item2f190ff5e2:g:zYQAAOSwPcVVgo-u
Keep in mind that, if you are using brass, the tube can act as a conductor so you would have one less wire to feed.
I'm curious to know how you will mount your signals. Mine will be in sockets using 6 pin IC connectors disguised as bases, like the ones I did for the club. That will allow them to be removed if work needs to be done in the area, and if somebody knocks one over hopefully the pins will just come apart with no damage done. The IC socket that is mounted to the layout is attached to a small piece of breadboard just to make the lower socket stable. Here is what they look like. This is just a test installation to see what they look like. Normally the circuit board would be cut into the homasote:
Note that the signal above is using 3 mm RG round top LEDs. They are easy to use but the signal heads had to be made a bit oversized. Most people won't notice.
Cheers!!
By the way, congratulations on making your own signals! When I was making them for my old club I think the cost per signal worked out to about $10.00 Cdn. ($7.00 USD). That included buying ready made ladders, platforms and stand offs from Tomar. Pre-made signals are pushing $50.00 each, as I'm sure you are aware.
Have you used these bulbs? At a penny apiece I get nervous. The area I need to get into is very small ( Signal Masts ). Is anything except the wire protruding from the bulb.
That is how I read it to. Thanks
STAY SAFE
wolfman hal Ok Back to the original question. Is this wiring diagram above going to do what I want? 1. When the train passes over the detector the light will turn from Green to Red and will turn back to Green when the train clears the detector.. It looks that way to me. Am I correct? Harold
Ok Back to the original question. Is this wiring diagram above going to do what I want?
1. When the train passes over the detector the light will turn from Green to Red and will turn back to Green when the train clears the detector.. It looks that way to me. Am I correct?
yes. from https://heathcote-electronics.co.uk/irdot1.html
To indicate when a train is detected a LED is connected to terminals 5 and 6. This LED lights when the train is over the detector. We supply the IRDOT-1 with a 5mm diameter red LED screwed to these terminals. The IRDOT-1 can also operate a seperate LED which lights when no train is detected (green in the diagram). If you wish to indicate no train is present in this way then a resistor (1K) is needed it is screwed into terminals 2 and 3.