maxman Is that stuff odor free?
Is that stuff odor free?
I can’t smell it, it’s a crafters glue. My wife put me on to it about 12 to 15 years ago. I like it because it absorbs motor noise and vidration. Mel
My Model Railroad http://melvineperry.blogspot.com/ Bakersfield, California Turned 84 in July, aging is definitely not for wimps.
Thanks again Mel, I'm waiting for the motors to arrive on a slow boat from China. I'll post when I've completed teh project.
Gary
I mount all my motors with Amazing Goop, been using it for over 10 years.Mel My Model Railroad http://melvineperry.blogspot.com/ Bakersfield, California Turned 84 in July, aging is definitely not for wimps.
Thanks Selector, I didn't catch that.
RR_Mel It’s the decoder that needs to be isolated. All the connections to the decoder except rail power need to be isolated. With an isolated motor such as the FS-266SA when you connect the grey and orange wires from the decoder it is safe. Mel My Model Railroad http://melvineperry.blogspot.com/ Bakersfield, California Turned 84 in July, aging is definitely not for wimps.
It’s the decoder that needs to be isolated. All the connections to the decoder except rail power need to be isolated. With an isolated motor such as the FS-266SA when you connect the grey and orange wires from the decoder it is safe. Mel
Ok that's great. Easy enough to do. One last question, how did you mount the motor?
I was cautioned about ten years ago not to say that the motor had to be isolated, but that the brushes have to be isolated. I think this is what Mel means, that the motor he specifies is safe because it has an isolated brush...? The feed up from the rails must go directly to the decoder, and then the decoder apportions what it gets to its components/drives for the locomotive's other parts to use. The motor brushes can't get any other power but from the decoder's wire designed to drive the motor. Often that means isolating the entire motor from any contact with the frame.
So it's just the motor that needs to be isolated?
The SF-266SA motor terminals are isolated from its case or housing, no problem. Mel My Model Railroad http://melvineperry.blogspot.com/ Bakersfield, California Turned 84 in July, aging is definitely not for wimps.
Hi all, FINALLY, after moving, some health issues and the rebuild of my layout in a new home I'm ready to DCC my 1980's Rivarossi Y6b.
I purchased a can motor as Mel recommended but I'm stuck on how to isolate the motor and decoder. Seems both front and rear trucks are screwed into the led weight as is the original motor. Easy enough to isolate the motor but I'm not sure how to isolate the trucks (they pick up rail power).
Anyone have a how to idea?
I'll have to check when I get home, I'm pretty sure the motors in my locos are EN22, but the other numbers might be different.
I wouldn't worry about a 1 amp locked rotor current killing a decoder, unless I was using some ultra tiny Z scale decoder for some reason. Nearly any N or HO decoder can handle 1 amp continuous, with a higher peak, so no danger there. I just see a huge difference betwene the current draw of these "aftermarket" EN22 motors vs ones that came factory equipped in a loco - mine are not remotors, they are what these locos came with out of the box. They run so well, it is definitely worth using these same motors in other locos with poor motors.
--Randy
Modeling the Reading Railroad in the 1950's
Visit my web site at www.readingeastpenn.com for construction updates, DCC Info, and more.
Hmm, are those really genuine Caon EN-22's, to stall at over an amp? I'd think at over na amp they'd melt - the Stewart Baldwin switchers I have all have EN-22 motors in them, and I don't think I've ever been able to get one above 1/2 amp. Normal free running, they draw less than 50mA - typically 25mA with nothing coupled on, on level track! The motors themselves have stickers on indicating their Canon origin.
stevetx Gary, FYI - the Mabuchi SF-266SA comes with a 2mm diameter / 18.5mm long output shaft. I shortened my shafts to 10mm to fit locos using a hack saw and vise. The case is 30.6mm long including a plastic end cap into which electrical taps are inserted. I popped off the end cap and did not use the taps. I soldered lead wires direct to the electrical tabs the are revealed after popping off the cap. This made the case just 25 mm long. The steps I did are exactly what most re-motor folks have done in the "RepowerAndRegear" group - I just did what I read from their experiences. At the price I paid they were an easy gamble. Mel, I do not have an EN22 but I wonder how the SF-266SA mods resulting in a 10mm shaft length + 25mm case length compare.
Gary, FYI - the Mabuchi SF-266SA comes with a 2mm diameter / 18.5mm long output shaft. I shortened my shafts to 10mm to fit locos using a hack saw and vise. The case is 30.6mm long including a plastic end cap into which electrical taps are inserted. I popped off the end cap and did not use the taps. I soldered lead wires direct to the electrical tabs the are revealed after popping off the cap. This made the case just 25 mm long. The steps I did are exactly what most re-motor folks have done in the "RepowerAndRegear" group - I just did what I read from their experiences. At the price I paid they were an easy gamble.
Mel, I do not have an EN22 but I wonder how the SF-266SA mods resulting in a 10mm shaft length + 25mm case length compare.
Spalato68 This motor could be replacement for Faulhaber 2224RS: https://www.ebay.com/itm/Mini-17mm-Big-Coreless-Motor-DC-12V-15000RPM-High-Speed-DIY-Tattoo-Machine/192749187210?_trkparms=aid%3D555018%26algo%3DPL.SIM%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D59444%26meid%3Da7042d893b394502985be2a2bce52734%26pid%3D100005%26rk%3D2%26rkt%3D12%26mehot%3Dwa%26sd%3D283275034611%26itm%3D192749187210%26pmt%3D1%26noa%3D0%26pg%3D2047675&_trksid=p2047675.c100005.m1851 If datasheet is correct, it is a very strong motor! Shaft is 1,5 mm, but that is easy to correct. The advantage is its dimensions, it is just 24,5 mm long. Yes, Motorman was great source, not only on motors, but also on knowledge. I am happy to had opportunity to communicate with him for a while and learn some things. I am grateful him for that. In any case, I would rather go for decent iron core motor like Canon mentioned above or e.g. Kato motor, or good coreless motor than buy 3 dollar motor...for that smal amount of money, you cannot expect quality (for a long term). OK, if you drive a locomotive once a month for 30 mins, it can be good. But if locomotive will be used often, on long sesions, pull long trains..it is better to invest little more in a hearth of each locomotive, and that is motor. I must admit that I did not test motor I gave link above. But it is intended for serious equipment, which is used for a long period of time, so I expect, it should be ok. Hrvoje
This motor could be replacement for Faulhaber 2224RS:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Mini-17mm-Big-Coreless-Motor-DC-12V-15000RPM-High-Speed-DIY-Tattoo-Machine/192749187210?_trkparms=aid%3D555018%26algo%3DPL.SIM%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D59444%26meid%3Da7042d893b394502985be2a2bce52734%26pid%3D100005%26rk%3D2%26rkt%3D12%26mehot%3Dwa%26sd%3D283275034611%26itm%3D192749187210%26pmt%3D1%26noa%3D0%26pg%3D2047675&_trksid=p2047675.c100005.m1851
If datasheet is correct, it is a very strong motor! Shaft is 1,5 mm, but that is easy to correct. The advantage is its dimensions, it is just 24,5 mm long.
Yes, Motorman was great source, not only on motors, but also on knowledge. I am happy to had opportunity to communicate with him for a while and learn some things. I am grateful him for that.
In any case, I would rather go for decent iron core motor like Canon mentioned above or e.g. Kato motor, or good coreless motor than buy 3 dollar motor...for that smal amount of money, you cannot expect quality (for a long term). OK, if you drive a locomotive once a month for 30 mins, it can be good. But if locomotive will be used often, on long sesions, pull long trains..it is better to invest little more in a hearth of each locomotive, and that is motor.
I must admit that I did not test motor I gave link above. But it is intended for serious equipment, which is used for a long period of time, so I expect, it should be ok.
Hrvoje
Thanks for all the posts! I’ve had a terrible time trying to get onto this website. Gave up yesterday.
Yes I want a new motor don’t want to replace with the same old.
Your posts have provided me with a lot of information here and I need to look into the ideas and information provided.
I went to the NWSL website and found a document on how to replace the motor. Can’t find a video anywhere.
And those of you that questioned the 2-6-6-2 were correct! I moved to a new house last year building a new layout and for the last 20 years at the old house layout the locomotive was in a box. I Opened that box yesterday and it’s a 2-8-8-2.
If anyone knows where I can find a video I’d love to see it. I think the NWSL site has more info on gears etc.
stevetx....One guy said he could not stop the output shaft with his fingers where on other motors he could. That evolved to discussions of anyone ever having a motor stall. The DC and DCC users of steam locos seem to agree the only common stall occurance they recalled was a valve gear or connecting rod coming loose and locking the drivers which stalled the motor....
A friend, on my recommendation, bought the brass loco shown below (not its original tender shown)....
...which had a large can motor...
The plan was to make it into a model of a CNR prototype, and turned out, I think, rather well...
During the build, I needed to balance the weight of that motor, so cast a new lead weight to fit into the boiler. The loco then tipped the scales at about 2lbs. While it's an excellent puller, and in a test with a 100oz. loaded coal train, it moved the train up a 45'-long 2.8% grade, with numerous curves, without difficulty. However, on a subsequent test with two or three more loaded cars, the loco actually stalled, too heavy and too much trailing weight to even slip its drivers (the latter a good safety device to prevent burned-out motors).
That's the only time I've seen a loco actually stall. Fortunately, my friend does not run trains of that weight.
Wayne
Mel,
I remember reading about that 1.17 amp stall in "RepowerAndRegear" when it first came up with the 18mm square motor. There was discussion about the merits of its measure. One guy said he could not stop the output shaft with his fingers where on other motors he could. That evolved to discussions of anyone ever having a motor stall. The DC and DCC users of steam locos seem to agree the only common stall occurance they recalled was a valve gear or connecting rod coming loose and locking the drivers which stalled the motor. Agreement was then in that case a decoder could be damaged. Seems like there could be some kind of 'simple and tiny circuit breaker' between the power source (rail or battery) and decoder (DCC or DWTC) that could shut down current to the decoder like the old time clear glass auto accessory tubular fuse but at a very low current. All that is beyond my brain power.
I am not familiar with that Rivarossi model. However, I suggest you consider the new square can motors that "hit" the market about 2 years ago. I found out about them recently in "RepowerAndRegear groups io" (do a search and take a look there as a lot of the members are very experienced in re-motor and there are lots of locos discussed along with photos and such) when I was searching for motors to put in my Rivarossi and Mantua steamers. I could not find the EN22 Mel has used - he does great work. These square motors are 6 pole, 4 magnet motors with great torque. They cost less than $3 each so far from China via the auction site. There are three to look at:
Minebea SS10GORTME: 10mm X 10mm 11700RPMMinebea SE15HOSLTP: 15mm X 15mm 6500RPMMabuchi SF-266SA: 18mm X 18mm 7200RPM
The 10 and 15 mm square are small but don't let that fool you. I have installed 18mm square motors in two Mantua Pacifics with the power drive gear box. They are smooth running, powerful motors. I obtained both the 15mm and 18mm which are now slated for my other Mantuas and Rivarossis. I plan to switch out a Canon motor I already put in a Rivarossi with one of these squares.
I recommend you look close at Mel's web site as he has done neat stuff with his Rivarossi articulated locos using the EN22. I believe the square motors will be an option to that motor.