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SW7 HO scale light post broken

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  • Member since
    January 2003
  • From: US
  • 112 posts
Posted by rbturner on Sunday, November 4, 2018 10:16 AM

To repair the light post/bracket, I use a spring loaded center punch. Place the bracket over the peg on the frame and support the frame. Place the center punch in the center of the peg and push down on the center punch until it 'fires'. Repeat the punching process until the peg has spread out enough to hold the bracket.

Randy
  • Member since
    January 2009
  • From: Bakersfield, CA 93308
  • 6,526 posts
Posted by RR_Mel on Saturday, October 27, 2018 11:33 PM

The older Athearn motors can draw well over 1 amp.  Check the stall current and make sure the decoder will handle the max current.  You must isolate all electrical connections from the chassis when installing a decoder.  If any of the decoder wires other than red or black connect to the chassis the decoder is toast.  Either the black or red wire can connect to the chassis and the other to the truck power pickup.
 
 
Mel
 
 
My Model Railroad   
 
Bakersfield, California
 
I'm beginning to realize that aging is not for wimps.
 
  • Member since
    July 2006
  • From: Bradford, Ontario
  • 15,797 posts
Posted by hon30critter on Saturday, October 27, 2018 8:05 PM

josephbw
I use LED's mounted in the light opening and wired to the decoder.

I agree with Joe. Use LEDs, especially with DCC. Better light and longer life. Just don't forget the resistors.

Dave

I'm just a dude with a bad back having a lot of fun with model trains, and finally building a layout!

  • Member since
    June 2014
  • From: Ohio
  • 231 posts
Posted by josephbw on Saturday, October 27, 2018 9:51 AM

I've converted several Blue Box Athearns with decoders. One of the first things I do is to remove the light mounting bracket. Then I use LED's mounted in the light opening and wired to the decoder.

As far as decoders, you will need to check the different ones to see what effects are available and pick one that meets your criteria.

Good Luck, Joe

  • Member since
    January 2006
  • From: Northeast OH
  • 2,268 posts
Posted by NeO6874 on Friday, October 26, 2018 8:48 PM

Drill a hole and tap for a small screw - fixed an issue with a Mantua loco I had.

Decoder is probably gonna be a process of:

  1. Isolate motor, lights, etc. from the frame.
  2. Connect decoder power wire (err, red and black?) to left and right pickups
  3. Connect motor wires (orange and ... Errr, slate?) to motor
  4. Connect light functions (white, yellow, etc) to each light (and blue common positive)

 As for the model of decoder, I recall NCE and TCS had a couple N scale ones that handled an amp or so - I'd start looking there.

-Dan

Builder of Bowser steam! Railimages Site

  • Member since
    September 2012
  • 18 posts
SW7 HO scale light post broken
Posted by Georgep on Friday, October 26, 2018 9:45 AM

I have an Athearn 25 year old SW7 diesel switcher where the light post has come off the engine chassis. I have tried a few times to either solder it on or to glue it on to no avail. It alsways gets loose and falls off again. And I realized that I cannot glue it as the light post is the partly the power for the light. Athearn says they do not have any of these chassis and offered a different more modern one for me to purchase. I do not know if the new one will work as it may have completely  different layout than the old one I have.

Does anyone out there have any ideas on how I can get the light post securely attached to the chassis again?

Also, does anyone have a good idea for a decoder that will fit this particular engine? This engine was not built for DCC and does not have any kind of light board or decoder board on it.

Thanks,

George

Tags: SW7 issues

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