gmpullman rrinker Unless you goof up the wiring, the LEDs should last longer than you and I combined have left on this earth. That is certainly true of "first-run, top grade" LEDs. But the cast-offs and rejects that we buy by the bucketful for two-bucks including shipping from Asia don't quite have the same dependability that NASA or Boeing pays for. I've had maybe a dozen or so go South. Mostly the red/green bi-color ones that I use on turnout indicators. You can't ignore them when they fail either. No turnout control when one side is out. I always test the LED before putting it in a locomotive or passenger car. At least I know it is good to begin with... Thank You, Ed
rrinker Unless you goof up the wiring, the LEDs should last longer than you and I combined have left on this earth.
That is certainly true of "first-run, top grade" LEDs. But the cast-offs and rejects that we buy by the bucketful for two-bucks including shipping from Asia don't quite have the same dependability that NASA or Boeing pays for.
I've had maybe a dozen or so go South. Mostly the red/green bi-color ones that I use on turnout indicators. You can't ignore them when they fail either. No turnout control when one side is out.
I always test the LED before putting it in a locomotive or passenger car. At least I know it is good to begin with...
Thank You, Ed
rrinkerUnless you goof up the wiring, the LEDs should last longer than you and I combined have left on this earth.
SpaceMouseI'm now waiting on the bezels. What size holes do I drill for them?
Hi, Chip
I use four different types of bezels,
3mm metal = 15/64" (1/4" will work but a little sloppy)
5mm metal = 9/32"
3mm plastic = 3/16"
5mm plastic = 1/4"
The plastic ones push in from the front and two fingers on the back grip the bottom flange of the LED. The metal ones come with a little plastic "Cork" that has two holes in it for the LED leads. Slip this onto the leads then it presses into the back of the bezel, which is secured with a threaded hex nut from the back.
IMG_0170 by Edmund, on Flickr
Also, by default, all my switch toggles face down for the "normal" route. All I have to do is go around the layout and be sure all the levers are down and I know everything is lined for the main. That guarantees there will be no wrecks, right?
Sure, you still have do un-solder the LED. I know you're trying for nice-tight wiring but... It is handy to be able to unclip or unscrew a device (switch) and have enough of a lead on it so you can 1) have enough extra wire to cut and strip a new length of "virgin" copper and 2) be able to pull it away enough to get the solder and iron in there, plus your stubby fingers.
You see I like to use the blank cover plates as "mini-panels". The Lexan ones are thin and easy to drill. I wire them with at least an extra 9" to a foot of wire so I can pull it away from the fascia and have easy access to the underpinnings.
Most of these are pre-wired at the bench and then wired to the layout using various types of barrier strips.
Yes, those "hip, hip bump protectors" are nice. Plain old cabinet hardware.
https://tinyurl.com/y9j99hu6
Or similar...
That carpet doesn't easily fray. I use a new, Stanley knife blade to trim the top and bottom and most of the panel openings I cut and beveled the carpet so it wraps to the inside of the fascia. The butt joints are nearly invisible and there's only one every twelve feet.
https://tinyurl.com/ybzqqyvz
Home Depot or a place like that has it in several colors. I love it! I had the store use their cutter machine to make the heights that I needed (12" up to 22") saved me from using a straight edge on my hands and knees .
It is cheap, does not scuff, deadens sound, Velcro sticks to it and the dark green compliments the layout scenery.
I even used the tan and wrapped it around some of the legs of the layout:
IMG_8469_fix by Edmund, on Flickr
Here's how I was applying it a few years ago:
IMG_8436_fix by Edmund, on Flickr
Once the glue was dry I just used the Stanly knife and cut the top edge to follow the contour of the layout. You can see the old fascia covering. Green vinyl wallpaper (amazingly durable) and the gray stuff it the molding made for melamine paneling used as edging and joints. I cut this stuff off before I glued on the new carpet covering.
Hope that helps, Ed
RR_MelMy connectors have connectors
Henry
COB Potomac & Northern
Shenandoah Valley
rrinker Unless you goof up the wiring, the LEDs should last longer than you and I combined have left on this earth. Having them plugging in to be easily repalceable is really low on my list of desires. Plus when I do have a dead component I rarely waste time desoldering it - just cut the leads off the bad one, pop it out of the bezel, put in a new one, and solder the wires back on. --Randy
Unless you goof up the wiring, the LEDs should last longer than you and I combined have left on this earth. Having them plugging in to be easily repalceable is really low on my list of desires. Plus when I do have a dead component I rarely waste time desoldering it - just cut the leads off the bad one, pop it out of the bezel, put in a new one, and solder the wires back on.
--Randy
rrinkerThere should be some info on the bezels on the seller's page.
Nope.
I sent the seller a message.
Chip
Building the Rock Ridge Railroad with the slowest construction crew west of the Pecos.
There should be some info on the bezels on the seller's page. I forget offhand what size they are. 1/4" maybe, although that may be the size for the small toggles, the plastic LED bezels would be smaller - maybe 1/8".
Modeling the Reading Railroad in the 1950's
Visit my web site at www.readingeastpenn.com for construction updates, DCC Info, and more.
RR_MelIf you would like to use sockets for you LEDs the wires are standard 0.10” spacing and these header strips would work. They make them in both single and double row strips, male and female.
Thanks Mel.
I think in this case it would be easier to switch out an LED than it would be to employ the socket, but I am saving the idea for future applications.
If you guys keep this up, you might turn me into an electronic wizard. I'm already thinking about taking the DVD drive out of my son's broken PS4 and putting it into my PS3 with a broken DVD drive.
I inhereted the PS3 from my dad when he passed. My dad put a DVD into it forgot about it, then put a second DVD in and it didn't work. He forgot about it and shoved a third DVD in. Don't ask me how.
Anyway, I got the DVDs out, but now the drive won't read anything. Go figure.
Anyway, I might try to jury rig the game system while I wait for parts.
SpaceMouse When you say you snap a new LED in place, can I assume you still have to desolder it and resolder the new one?
When you say you snap a new LED in place, can I assume you still have to desolder it and resolder the new one?
gmpullman May I suggest LED panel sleeves or bezels for holding your LEDs in the panel?
May I suggest LED panel sleeves or bezels for holding your LEDs in the panel?
I'm now waiting on the bezels. What size holes do I drill for them? If I knew, I could paint the panel and wire everything but the LEDs.
I often use the plastic ones. There are times when I have to replace a defective LED and these make it easy to snap a new LED in place — and, they look Eloquent IMG_0168 by Edmund, on Flickr
I often use the plastic ones. There are times when I have to replace a defective LED and these make it easy to snap a new LED in place — and, they look Eloquent
IMG_0168 by Edmund, on Flickr
I like this switch panel. Very clean. I also like your solution to hip bumps.
And to devolve a bit, what did you do to keep the edges of your carpet from fraying?
Is the panel metal? That would be asking for trouble...
No, it's painted plexiglass. I may be stupid, but...
He's doing separate resistors for each LED. While their SHOULD be no chance of contact benign made to connect both the red and green while flipping a toggle, it's valid - especially if wanting to equalize the brightness of the LEDs by using a different resistor for green and red. One for each toggle, wired to the center terminal, really would work here though.
I used a small piece of perf board for the wiring poitns (and I used screw terminals for the power input and the lines out to the Tortoises) on that panel I made - frankly a mistake as I resulted in wires all over. Chip's way of using copper clad strips as terminal tie points is making for a neater control panel, Although if the LEDs and toggles were spread out as in a track diagram type of thing I would probably go back to the perf board unless there was enough spacing between control and LED to allow horizontal tie blocks.
The same sort of thing could be made with strips of perf board, it's just that the common side would have to all be soldered together, you get that feature automatically with the copper clad.
SpaceMouse RR_Mel The perf board is a fiber board with holes that are through plated for soldering. Okay, I got the perf board and the bezels for the LEDs. Given my switch plate-- --actually I've decided to start over-- how would you incorporate the perf board. There doesn't seem to be enough room to mount the board in a porductive way. I suppose I could cut it and mount it at a 90 degree angle to the switch plate. Suggestions?
RR_Mel The perf board is a fiber board with holes that are through plated for soldering.
Okay, I got the perf board and the bezels for the LEDs.
Given my switch plate--
--actually I've decided to start over-- how would you incorporate the perf board. There doesn't seem to be enough room to mount the board in a porductive way. I suppose I could cut it and mount it at a 90 degree angle to the switch plate.
Suggestions?
RR_MelThe perf board is a fiber board with holes that are through plated for soldering.
BigDaddy RR_Mel Could I suggest Perf Board for the resistors and other small parts. I found one of those just today and I do not remember buying, probably 30 years ago. My Harbor Freight meter reads 1.988 on all modes unless it reads 19.88 or 198.8. Are any of the rows or columns in continuity? Would a solderless bread board be more useful?
RR_Mel Could I suggest Perf Board for the resistors and other small parts.
I found one of those just today and I do not remember buying, probably 30 years ago. My Harbor Freight meter reads 1.988 on all modes unless it reads 19.88 or 198.8. Are any of the rows or columns in continuity?
Would a solderless bread board be more useful?
RR_MelCould I suggest Perf Board for the resistors and other small parts.
SpaceMouse rrinker ou won't be able to reverse with that pushbutton. It looks like it's DPST, but even if it was DPDT - the only momentary pushbuttons I've every seen in DPDT connected the center to one side when you didn;t press it, and connected the center to the opposite side when you held it down. So it would move continuously one way unless you pressed the button, at which time it would move the other way. You need your basic DPDT toggle wired with the X on the back for a reversing switch, then from there to the pushbutton and to the turntable motor (order of the switches does not matter, power could go to the pushbutton first, then the reversing switch and then the motor). I'm not sure where you are seeing a push button. The large DPDT is a MOM in both directions. When you release it, it goes to center. It occurs to me that you can't see the front of the switch.
rrinker ou won't be able to reverse with that pushbutton. It looks like it's DPST, but even if it was DPDT - the only momentary pushbuttons I've every seen in DPDT connected the center to one side when you didn;t press it, and connected the center to the opposite side when you held it down. So it would move continuously one way unless you pressed the button, at which time it would move the other way. You need your basic DPDT toggle wired with the X on the back for a reversing switch, then from there to the pushbutton and to the turntable motor (order of the switches does not matter, power could go to the pushbutton first, then the reversing switch and then the motor).
I'm not sure where you are seeing a push button. The large DPDT is a MOM in both directions. When you release it, it goes to center.
It occurs to me that you can't see the front of the switch.
Speaking of "eloquence"...
https://tinyurl.com/y98n6vpt
There are several varieties available. The chrome ones look very nice and direct the light forward so it reduces glare. **
https://tinyurl.com/y94mbv3j
**Both those Ebay listings are only for example. I bought from other suppliers.
[Edit] and P.S. Are you passing the LED leads, from the front, through those two holes you drilled in the panel? That seems like a lot of work. Even before I was using the bezels I pushed the LED in through one hole, from the back.
Good Luck, Ed
Thanks Chip. I did not see that the circuit board was scored. I am looking for a solution that is also unpluggable, for a future move, but I can incorporate your idea.
Oh, OK. For soome reason I thought it was a pushbutton.
Second the fuse idea. Wall Warts usually are already fused - but it's a one-time thing, not replaceable. Using a 1 1/2 amp fuse on a 2 amp wall wart keeps you honest on the current draw and a mistake means a 50 cent fuse and not a new $5 wall wart.
SpaceMouseWhat kind of fuse to you recommend? The Wall Wart coming is 12VDC 2A.
1 1/2 amp fuse. Don't worry about the voltage rating on the fuse. That's a maximum value and does not really matter here. You want to make sure you're protected if the current draw gets close to the current limit of the supply. Stay a bit under the supply's rating to be safe.
It takes an iron man to play with a toy iron horse.
MisterBeasleyAnd don't forget the fuse on the output of the power supply.
What kind of fuse to you recommend? The Wall Wart coming is 12VDC 2A.
BigDaddy I want to add lights to buildings, which I have never done. The above looks like it would be used to light multiple LED's but I'm not quite grasping the game plan. Can you explain how you will use it.
I want to add lights to buildings, which I have never done. The above looks like it would be used to light multiple LED's but I'm not quite grasping the game plan. Can you explain how you will use it.
It you look at a larger image you will see that there are two rows of copper strips joined by red or green wires.
There is a third row of strips and between the third row of strips without wires joining them. If you look closely at the row of strips without wires joining them you will see a cut through the copper between each of the resistors. There is also a hole next to each resistor. The two wires coming from each individual LED will come through that hole. One will attach to the (red) resistor side and one will attach to the common green side.
Each LED will have it's own resistor and it can be wired without having to crawl under the layout. Here's what it looks like mounted on the side of the benchwork.
The town of Rock Ridge is above that board. As it stands I can wire 30 LEDs from it. If that is not enough, there's room for 18 more. It will eventually be covered by facia.
rrinkerou won't be able to reverse with that pushbutton. It looks like it's DPST, but even if it was DPDT - the only momentary pushbuttons I've every seen in DPDT connected the center to one side when you didn;t press it, and connected the center to the opposite side when you held it down. So it would move continuously one way unless you pressed the button, at which time it would move the other way. You need your basic DPDT toggle wired with the X on the back for a reversing switch, then from there to the pushbutton and to the turntable motor (order of the switches does not matter, power could go to the pushbutton first, then the reversing switch and then the motor).
SpaceMouseOn another note, I hooked up power to my homemade circuit board that I'm using to power my structure lights.
Yes, it can drive both ways. All the mechanical part of the mechanism does is define the spots where the position is held by allowing it to advance only in set increments. The bits of the mechanism are symmetrical, so it can turn either way. I think the Wikipedia entry on geneva drive has a good animation - I knoow I've seen one somewhere. If you're interested in how it works.
You won't be able to reverse with that pushbutton. It looks like it's DPST, but even if it was DPDT - the only momentary pushbuttons I've every seen in DPDT connected the center to one side when you didn;t press it, and connected the center to the opposite side when you held it down. So it would move continuously one way unless you pressed the button, at which time it would move the other way. You need your basic DPDT toggle wired with the X on the back for a reversing switch, then from there to the pushbutton and to the turntable motor (order of the switches does not matter, power could go to the pushbutton first, then the reversing switch and then the motor).
It looks like you have room below the pushbutton. I'd put it below the button, with the lever moving left and right, and label them clockwise and counterclockwise. Or to use a bigger, more readable font for the lettering - CW and CCW.
SpaceMouseI have to admit, I didn't reverse motor direction, but I thought with the geneva drive, the turntable only goes one way. I can go both ways with my DTDP MOM if it does.
The Atlas Geneva drive does go both ways.
And don't forget the fuse on the output of the power supply.
MisterBeasleyIf it were me, I would just get a 12-volt DC supply online.
Okay, okay. I ordered a 12VDC 2A regulated wall wart for $7. Be here in a week.
rrinkerI think you need another switch on that panel - to control the direction of the turntable rotation. Unless you are good with always going around the long way.
I have to admit, I didn't reverse motor direction, but I thought with the geneva drive, the turntable only goes one way. I can go both ways with my DTDP MOM if it does.
If you assume you make an...nevermind.