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Circuit Breaker Survey

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  • Member since
    July 2006
  • From: Phoenix, AZ
  • 1,835 posts
Posted by bearman on Monday, March 5, 2018 1:02 PM

All those components, Onewolf?  Your layout must be massive.

Bear "It's all about having fun."

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  • From: East Central Florida
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Posted by Onewolf on Monday, March 5, 2018 12:57 PM
I have a bunch of PSX components (two PSX-AR, two PSX4, two PSX3, one PSX2) and they all seem to work fine. They are fairly flexible/configurable. I chose them because they got good reviews and Tony's Trains recommended them when I started construction on my layout.

Modeling an HO gauge freelance version of the Union Pacific Oregon Short Line and the Utah Railway around 1957 in a world where Pirates from the Great Salt Lake founded Ogden, UT.

- Photo album of layout construction -

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  • From: Phoenix, AZ
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Posted by bearman on Monday, March 5, 2018 11:55 AM

Henry, check with Allan Gartner's website.  He explains it.  I cant.

Bear "It's all about having fun."

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  • From: Shenandoah Valley
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Posted by BigDaddy on Monday, March 5, 2018 11:32 AM

BroadwayLion
If the lamp lights up the short is still present

My stupid question of the day: Why does the lamp only light in the presence of a short?

 

Henry

COB Potomac & Northern

Shenandoah Valley

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Posted by bearman on Monday, March 5, 2018 11:26 AM

LION, Him the frugal railroader

Bear "It's all about having fun."

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  • From: North Dakota
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Posted by BroadwayLion on Monday, March 5, 2018 10:47 AM

LION uses 3AMP Automobile fuses. Him has five circuits for different uses.

If fuse blows, him not put in another fuse, instead him connects the big 12 v. truck taillight and uses the lamp filiments as if they were the fuse.

If the lamp lights up the short is still present. Go find the short. Whe the short is eliminated the light will go out and the train will start running. The train will not draw enough current to allow the lamp to glow.

Once all is working, LION disconects the lamp and installs a gnu fuse.

 

ROAR

 

(Do NOT mistake fuses with fusees, they are very different in the railroad world)

The Route of the Broadway Lion The Largest Subway Layout in North Dakota.

Here there be cats.                                LIONS with CAMERAS

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  • From: Phoenix, AZ
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Posted by bearman on Monday, March 5, 2018 8:02 AM

peahrens

...and consulted with Tony's Trains, which I recommend (again). 

Consulting with Tony's Trains is a very smart thing to do.

 

Bear "It's all about having fun."

  • Member since
    January 2010
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Posted by peahrens on Monday, March 5, 2018 7:59 AM

I decided on a NCE Powerhouse Pro 5A system, and consulted with Tony's Trains, which I recommend (again).  I note my DCC system, as with that I was ok with the OG-CB and OG-AR (reverser) breakers for my sub-districts.  I wanted non-relay types and Tony's suggested they would fit my bill.  I don't think they are adjustable, and they do not work with some systems, including PowerCab and Zephyr, I'm guessing because their trip setting (4A) is too high and the booster would trip first(?). 

They are less expensive ($25, $32, respectively) but that was not the key criterion.  They do have circuit board connections for extended LED indicators.  They might be worth consideration in some cases, but I would check with Tony's.

I note from previous threads that adjustability can be critical with some combinations, as the subdistrict breaker needs to trip before the main (booster) breaker.  But not an issue in my case.  Always work fine.

Paul

Modeling HO with a transition era UP bent

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  • From: Reading, PA
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Posted by rrinker on Monday, March 5, 2018 7:38 AM

 I used a Digitrax PM42 on my last layout, but I have a Digitrax system. Never had any problems with it, even deliberately loading multiple sound locos in one section, it still recovered just fine. I have no external keep-alives on any of mine, and I guess ESU decoders don;t have the inrush issues of QSI or others, although I do have one QSI and people have claimed their PM42 won't reset with even one sound decoder - I think they're doing it wrong.

 Not really suitable for non-Digitrax systems as you need a Digitrax throttle to adjust the settings. Or a standalone Loconet and JMRI.

                                --Randy

 


Modeling the Reading Railroad in the 1950's

 

Visit my web site at www.readingeastpenn.com for construction updates, DCC Info, and more.

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Posted by gdelmoro on Monday, March 5, 2018 6:05 AM

Well ... as you know I only have experience with the NCE EB1 and I’m about to find out if NCE will stand by them.  

If not, I just saw an excellent video on the NMRA website about the PSX. the video was done by the designer who weas very informative AND he stated that if one ever goes bad (even out of warrantee) they will replace it.

If you’re an NMRA member search for the below

Presented by Larry Maier
​2009 National Convention - Hartford, CT
“Unique Features and Use of DCC Specialties Products” – Larry Maier (58:53) 
Tony’s Train Exchange engineer Larry Maier describes several products manufactured by Tony’s subsidiary, DCC Specialties, and how to use and program each.

Gary

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  • From: Dearborn Station
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Posted by richhotrain on Monday, March 5, 2018 5:53 AM

I own several PSX units as well. Occasional derailments cause shorts on my layout, and the pertinent PSX shuts down only that power district causing the short. The PSX is an excellent and reliable unit.

One thing that I like about the PSX units is that the input side has 4 ports instead of just two ports. So, you can daisy chain from one unit to another.

gdelmoro has NCE EB1 circuit breakers on his layout. I don't have any personal experience with them.

Rich

Alton Junction

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    July 2006
  • From: Phoenix, AZ
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Circuit Breaker Survey
Posted by bearman on Monday, March 5, 2018 5:46 AM

A recent thread started by gdelmoro regarding his short circuit problems prompts me to take a survey on circuit breakers.  What circuit breaker(s) do you use and why?  And did you switch over from another model?

I use two PSX1's on mine for no good reason at all than I read a quick review several years ago that they were the best on the market, so I cannot claim to compare them to anything else.  I also have not had a short on my layout beyond the ones that I induced to make sure the wiring was ok, so I cant say if they work under real life conditions.  Obviously, I assume they will if and when the time comes.

I would like to point out that this is NOT intended to be an opportunity to rant about Manufacturer A or B or C or whatever.  That can be done on another thread.

So, have at it.

 

Bear "It's all about having fun."

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