BigDaddy I think Randy has better quality engines that we do.
I think Randy has better quality engines that we do.
You really can't get any better than Kato drive RS2's and I use a lot of them.....Kato's that is and I use DC......BUT....NO hic-cups what so ever at 2 miles per.....even with not so clean track.....and that is what I wanted......
Take Care!
Frank
Frank: So the caboose industries machine has enough "uumph" to move the slide switch? That is interesting since I have had a couple of the HO ones actually break apart (although I have used them for years).
Old Fat Robert
7j43k So that black frog casting is blackened metal instead of black plastic? Interesting. Ed
So that black frog casting is blackened metal instead of black plastic?
Interesting.
Ed
For about 30 years now.......as I look at the catalog specs for the Atlas "Mark II" turnout in the 1988 Walthers catalog "metal frog and improved extruded switch points".
Have you ever used an Atlas turnout?
Like Frank, I sand off the black on top.....
Sheldon
Henry
COB Potomac & Northern
Shenandoah Valley
A pic of an Atlas custom line #4 turnout that was powered after turnout was installed and ballasted with a hole drilled through one of the holes on the side of the frog and a #24 gauge solid wire stuck into the hole with insulation removed from the frog end with a 90 degree bend in the wire that rests in the top of the hole and a 1-72 black flat head machine screw inserted in the hole with the wire and tightened flush with hole. You can camoflage the screw head if you like.....I didn't care cause it really is not that noticeable unless close to it. I sanded off the black on the frog as well as on all the Atlas turnouts that I have.
The frog is powered by a SPDT slide-switch connected directly under the throw-bar in the center with the switch on it's side...power comes from stock rails...the turnout is controlled by a Caboose Ind. N-Scale 206s ground throw.......I use N-scale instead of HO-scale beastly looking ground throws......I only use them with #4 turnouts and they work fine......no matter what You may have heard about not working on HO scale....they work great for Me..
rrinker That said - I hooked wires to them on my previous layout and then never actually powered the frog - even my smallest loco could creep over the turnouts without stalling (smallest being a bachman 44 tonner). But - I had power feeders on all 3 legs of every turnout, at no point was I relying on the joints or embedded jumpers to power each part of the turnout. --Randy
That said - I hooked wires to them on my previous layout and then never actually powered the frog - even my smallest loco could creep over the turnouts without stalling (smallest being a bachman 44 tonner). But - I had power feeders on all 3 legs of every turnout, at no point was I relying on the joints or embedded jumpers to power each part of the turnout.
--Randy
I have connected feeders from all 3 ends of each turnout, as well as each track segment. The puzzling thing is that my engines (a 2-8-8-2 steam and a GP30 diesel) travel over a few turnouts just fine, but if going slow, actually come to a stop over most turnouts.
Jack
starmanCan I power the Frog by bringing a wire up from the bottom and connect it to one of the flanges and a buss line?
The problem is that it can't just be any bus, it has to be connected to the correct bus, depending on which way the turnout is thrown.
The Caboose Industries ground throw, that Ed suggested in the other thread is both a throw, to move the points and a switch connected to both bus wires that sends power to the frog. The advantage is the cost is less than half compared to a hex frog juicer and 1/3 of a tortoise and you still manually control your turnouts.
If building a fancy control panel with routes and leds and push buttons isn't your favorite part of the hobby, add that to the advantage column.
7j43k starman All turnouts are Atlas #283 (left hand) or #284 (right hand) HO Custom Line “Mark IV,” #6, code 100 turnouts. Does this help? Jack It does, actually. Here is a photograph of an Atlas #283: Note that there is no metal frog to power. Ed
starman All turnouts are Atlas #283 (left hand) or #284 (right hand) HO Custom Line “Mark IV,” #6, code 100 turnouts. Does this help? Jack
It does, actually.
Here is a photograph of an Atlas #283:
Note that there is no metal frog to power.
See that hole to the left of the frog? That's where the power connects. That's not plastic, it's blackened metal. These have always had metal frogs. Only the Snap-Track turnouts have plastic frogs. Actually, I think either lower on the front or maybe on the back of the Atlas package for the Custom-Line turnouts it even says "blackened metal frog".
Modeling the Reading Railroad in the 1950's
Visit my web site at www.readingeastpenn.com for construction updates, DCC Info, and more.
richhotrain starman I am learning that this is not an inexpensive hobby like I told my wife, who has assumed the position as CFO of my railroad! Most mistakes are recoverable. But naming your wife as CFO of your railroad is a fatal mistake from which you will never recover. Rich
starman I am learning that this is not an inexpensive hobby like I told my wife, who has assumed the position as CFO of my railroad!
Most mistakes are recoverable.
But naming your wife as CFO of your railroad is a fatal mistake from which you will never recover.
Rich
I was not consulted! I am afraid it was a self appointed, hostal takeover!!
Alton Junction
starman Will this Frog Juicer create any problems with my AR1? Some turnouts are inside and some are outside of my reversing section.
Agree with Rich.
doug
Ed, you are not correct.
You cannot tell anything for certain from the photo.
The Atlas Custom Line Mark IV series all are manufactured with die-cast metal frogs, and they can be powered.
richhotrain Let's clear up any misstatements about the Atlas Custom Line and Mark IV turnouts. Both the Custom Line and the Mark IV turnouts have an isolated metal frog. Rich
Let's clear up any misstatements about the Atlas Custom Line and Mark IV turnouts.
Both the Custom Line and the Mark IV turnouts have an isolated metal frog.
The photo above would seem to show otherwise.
starman The Frog has 2 small flanges, 1 on each side of the Frog, with a hole in each. Can I power the Frog by bringing a wire up from the bottom and connect it to one of the flanges and a buss line? Jack
The Frog has 2 small flanges, 1 on each side of the Frog, with a hole in each. Can I power the Frog by bringing a wire up from the bottom and connect it to one of the flanges and a buss line?
When testing for continuity on an Atlas Custom Line or Atlas Mark IV turnout, if you put one probe on any left rail segment and the other probe on any other left rail segment, you should get continuity. Vice versa, if you put one probe on any right rail segment and the other probe on any other right rail segment, you should get continuity.
If you put both probes anywhere on the frog, you should get continuity.
However, if you put one probe on the frog and the other probe on any rail segment, you will not get continuity because the frog is isolated.
The guard rails on either side of the frog are plastic and, therefore, non-conductive.
Lastly, if you put the two probes on two same side rail segments anywhere on the turnout and do not get continuity, one or more of the embedded jumpers is no longer making proper contact with the rail segment.
Any chance you mean Upper Guard Rail instead of Upper Frog Rail?
Yep, I agree with Frank.
Both the Custom Line and the Mark IV turnouts have an isolated metal frog. These turnouts are non-power routing and require no gapping in normal situations. So, if you wire all three ends of the turnout, the turnout is fully powered except the frog. The metal frog is, however, capable of being powered. This is true for both the Code 83 turnout and the Code 100 turnout.
The following photos...the first one being an Atlas snap switch turnout with plastic frogs, which cannot be powered......
The second and third photos are Atlas customline Mark 3 turnouts with potmetal frogs, which can be powered and how to do so using Atlas Snap Relays. There are many other ways to do so.....The Atlas relay is just one of them, if You want to stick to all Atlas components. The info that is wrote on the first photo was for another person..but it explains some of the short comings with a Snap Switch plastic frog turnout.
Good Luck!
starman ...there is no continuity between the Frog and any rails.
IF there is no continuity between the frog and any rails (as stated above), then electricity cannot go from those rails (or anything supplying them) to the frog.
Thus the frog has to be isolated. As in unpowered. There is no way for power to get to it.
BD
The upper Frog rail has continuity between it, the upper Stock rail, and the upper Closure rail.
Never mind. I'm not sure if I'm getting it.
I'm confused then. I thought the snap switches had plastic frogs and the custom line had pot metal frogs, that were all one piece. Based on that belief, the "upper frog rail" should not have continuity with anything.
starmanThere is continuity between the brass strip and the upper stock rail in Henry’s diagram, the upper of the two Frog rails, and the upper of the two Closure rails.