A pic of an Atlas custom line #4 turnout that was powered after turnout was installed and ballasted with a hole drilled through one of the holes on the side of the frog and a #24 gauge solid wire stuck into the hole with insulation removed from the frog end with a 90 degree bend in the wire that rests in the top of the hole and a 1-72 black flat head machine screw inserted in the hole with the wire and tightened flush with hole. You can camoflage the screw head if you like.....I didn't care cause it really is not that noticeable unless close to it. I sanded off the black on the frog as well as on all the Atlas turnouts that I have.
The frog is powered by a SPDT slide-switch connected directly under the throw-bar in the center with the switch on it's side...power comes from stock rails...the turnout is controlled by a Caboose Ind. N-Scale 206s ground throw.......I use N-scale instead of HO-scale beastly looking ground throws......I only use them with #4 turnouts and they work fine......no matter what You may have heard about not working on HO scale....they work great for Me..
Take Care!
Frank
I think Randy has better quality engines that we do.
Henry
COB Potomac & Northern
Shenandoah Valley
7j43k So that black frog casting is blackened metal instead of black plastic? Interesting. Ed
So that black frog casting is blackened metal instead of black plastic?
Interesting.
Ed
For about 30 years now.......as I look at the catalog specs for the Atlas "Mark II" turnout in the 1988 Walthers catalog "metal frog and improved extruded switch points".
Have you ever used an Atlas turnout?
Like Frank, I sand off the black on top.....
Sheldon
Frank: So the caboose industries machine has enough "uumph" to move the slide switch? That is interesting since I have had a couple of the HO ones actually break apart (although I have used them for years).
Old Fat Robert
BigDaddy I think Randy has better quality engines that we do.
You really can't get any better than Kato drive RS2's and I use a lot of them.....Kato's that is and I use DC......BUT....NO hic-cups what so ever at 2 miles per.....even with not so clean track.....and that is what I wanted......
starman I have connected feeders from all 3 ends of each turnout, as well as each track segment. The puzzling thing is that my engines (a 2-8-8-2 steam and a GP30 diesel) travel over a few turnouts just fine, but if going slow, actually come to a stop over most turnouts.
I have connected feeders from all 3 ends of each turnout, as well as each track segment. The puzzling thing is that my engines (a 2-8-8-2 steam and a GP30 diesel) travel over a few turnouts just fine, but if going slow, actually come to a stop over most turnouts.
Rich
Alton Junction
FWIW, I was wondering how I got it into my head that an Atlas Custom Line switch would have a plastic frog.
I found this:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/HO-TRAIN-VINTAGE-ATLAS-CUSTOM-LINE-RIGHT-HAND-BRASS-6-SWITCH-TURNOUT-NIP-/172806572905?hash=item283c130b69:g:8REAAOSwL7VWtLU2
from the olden days. It also appears that the Custom Line Mark 2's and later have the metal frog, as shown earlier.
Sorry about the confusion generated by myself.
Old Fat Robert Frank: So the caboose industries machine has enough "uumph" to move the slide switch? That is interesting since I have had a couple of the HO ones actually break apart (although I have used them for years). Old Fat Robert
I don't have a photo handy, but I actually us a sub minature slide switch mounted next to the turnout as my ground throw. It powers the frog and does power routing for thoe siding insome cases.
I drill a hole in the handle and make little "Z" springs from music wire.
Maybe not real prototypical looking, but small, unobtrusive, easy for operators to throw with the same little screwdriver they are uncoupling cars with and it does the job with one part......
ATLANTIC CENTRAL Have you ever used an Atlas turnout? Like Frank, I sand off the black on top..... Sheldon
Well, yes. In my first layout. Which preceded "Mark 2" by 20 years, or so. I guess.
7j43k ATLANTIC CENTRAL Have you ever used an Atlas turnout? Like Frank, I sand off the black on top..... Sheldon Well, yes. In my first layout. Which preceded "Mark 2" by 20 years, or so. I guess. Ed
So what do you use now? I've been using Atlas code 83 since it came out, never found a reason to spend more, got tired of building them myself........
My first layout was Tru-Scale milled roadbed track and turnouts, some RTR, some kit form.
I always use Atlas Custom Line, but I once accidentally bought a pair of Mark IVs to make a crossover. I don't really know what the difference is except that the Mark IVs may be longer than the Custom Line.
richhotrain I always use Atlas Custom Line, but I once accidentally bought a pair of Mark IVs to make a crossover. I don't really know what the difference is except that the Mark IVs may be longer than the Custom Line. Rich
My Atlas HO turnout package for code 100 says Custon Line Turnout on the side and "Mark IV" across the top. I purchased them about 6 months ago. Is there as difference between Custon Line and Mark IV?
Jack
Old Fat Robert,
I have not had Any N-scale 206s throws break yet from moving the points with sub slide switch.....most were installed in the mid 80's...I do make sure they move smoothly. I use Homosote roadbed throughout My layout. The groundthrows are screwed to the Homosote with #0 round head black wood screws,3/8ths that fit right in the holes on the ground throw....track is spiked down with ME 3/8ths spikes and ballast cement is Woodland scenics mixed with Alcohol only......works for Me....
ATLANTIC CENTRAL So what do you use now? I've been using Atlas code 83 since it came out, never found a reason to spend more, got tired of building them myself........ My first layout was Tru-Scale milled roadbed track and turnouts, some RTR, some kit form. Sheldon
Walthers Code 83.
One of my daydream projects will involve hand-made switches. As far as it getting done, see: "daydream", above.
Back in the olden days, I got a good deal on a box of 20" radius Tru-Scale roadbed and ties. I bent every spike I tried using. Being young and dumb (as opposed to now), I didn't think of pre-drilling. I did do some hand-laid track and switches, but that stretch of track was never actually "brought into service". It LOOKED promising, though.
starman richhotrain I always use Atlas Custom Line, but I once accidentally bought a pair of Mark IVs to make a crossover. I don't really know what the difference is except that the Mark IVs may be longer than the Custom Line. Rich My Atlas HO turnout package for code 100 says Custon Line Turnout on the side and "Mark IV" across the top. I purchased them about 6 months ago. Is there as difference between Custon Line and Mark IV? Jack
starman My Atlas HO turnout package for code 100 says Custon Line Turnout on the side and "Mark IV" across the top. I purchased them about 6 months ago. Is there as difference between Custon Line and Mark IV? Jack
This line of Atlas track (and there were others--Snap Switches, and fiber-tied, as I recall) started as "Custom Line". The fiber-tied switches had to have preceded the plastic-tied. I think. I SUSPECT that the Snap Switches came before the Custom Line stuff. Their big claim to fame is that they directly substituted for a (18"? radius) curve of Snap Track. As sales of that took off (?), I think Atlas decided to make some more tradional trackage: #4 and #6 switches, for one. Note that Snap Track was designed to be, as much as possible, modular. A lot of beginners weren't comfortable cutting flex-track to length. Custom Line is not modular, and you have to cut your flex-track to fit.
The next version of the switch (which started using the cast metal frog) was "Custom Line Mark 2". I have no idea what difference there is between each Mark.
I don't know whether this has already been brought up, as I have not read all of the replies, but I have at least 20 Atlas turnouts (various styles) on my layout. Over the years, at least half of them have developed "dead" rail sections. Not always the same rail, depending on the turnout. There's something "internally" wrong with these turnouts that can't be easily fixed! I have found the only sensible way of correcting this is to solder jumper wires to the offending rails. They just seem to fail "out of the blue" with no explanation. N-scale Atlas turnouts are even WORSE! The guy at Atlas (forgot his name) offerd to replace all of my offending turnouts, but removing and replacing the turnouts was a LOT more trouble than adding jumpers....
Mike C.
OK, some facts:
Atlas Custom Line goes all the way back to the 1950's.
I have an original 1957 copy of their track planning book which explains and lays out all the geometry of the #4, #6, wye, and the various crossings.
Mark IV is Custom Line. It is the 4th version of improvements that have been made.
IIRC, improvements as follows:
Original had plastic frog and stamped points, riveted pivot, and riveted to throw bar.
Mark II - isolated metal frog and "better" points, still pivoted on rivets
Mark III - Rivets gone at pivot, still riveted to throw bar, much better points
Mark IV - rivets gone, points clip into thowbar which is removeable and reversable
There are some minor variations between the code 100 and code 83 product, I have not used the code 100 product in over 20 years.....
"Snap Track" is train set track, curved plastic frogs that equal 18" radius. It has co-existed with Custom Line as long as I can remember. I got into the hobby in 1968, was working in the hobby shop starting in 1971......it was my job to know this stuff......
The Atlas Custom line #4 is really a #4-1/2......
The 18"R "Snap Switch" is about a #3-1/2......
All Atlas turnouts have feed through jumpers under the frog.
All the metal frogs have lugs for adding power.
7j43k ATLANTIC CENTRAL So what do you use now? I've been using Atlas code 83 since it came out, never found a reason to spend more, got tired of building them myself........ My first layout was Tru-Scale milled roadbed track and turnouts, some RTR, some kit form. Sheldon Walthers Code 83. One of my daydream projects will involve hand-made switches. As far as it getting done, see: "daydream", above. Back in the olden days, I got a good deal on a box of 20" radius Tru-Scale roadbed and ties. I bent every spike I tried using. Being young and dumb (as opposed to now), I didn't think of pre-drilling. I did do some hand-laid track and switches, but that stretch of track was never actually "brought into service". It LOOKED promising, though. Ed
Walthers code 83 is a nice track line, no question. I use it for specials like slip switches.
But it is not without its own issues as you likely know.
For use with my DC Advanced Cab Control, I prefer the feed thru wiring of the Atlas.
I have even used Atlas frogs and points to build some specials, generally curved turnouts using parts from the Atlas code 83 #8.
Hand layed has its own advantages and disadvantages.......using the Atlas parts is the best of both worlds for me.
Mark IV is a Custom Line product, but not all Custom Line turnouts are Mark IV.
Atlas makes both Custom Line and Custom Line-Mark IV.
In their online downloadable catalog there are both code 100 and code 83 snap switches. All the Code 100's are called Mark 4's, of the code 83, #4 and $6's are called Custom-line, #8's are called Custom-line Mark 4.
Returning to the OP's question, why does he have a problem only on some turnouts and not others?
Just the wheels are clean and so is the track, plus I make sure the pickups are all working - hence the Athearn RS-3 chassis shoved in a drawer awaiting even more drastic action because soldering a wire to bypass the bolster contact to the frame still didn't fix the lack of pickup on one side of one truck.
A 2-8-8-2, if it picks up on both the tender and the loco, has no excuse. The whole thing is way longer than the turnout, let alone the dead area of the frog. Something like that has some other problems if it stalls just because the frog isn't powered. It it stalling for lack of power, or is it stalling because it shorts out?
--Randy
Modeling the Reading Railroad in the 1950's
Visit my web site at www.readingeastpenn.com for construction updates, DCC Info, and more.
The only ones that aren;t Mark IV's are the Code 83 #6's sold as Super Track. That never really went anywhere and I'm not sure they even make those any more.
The Custom-Line name goes way back, the current production is the 4th revision, hence Mark IV. The first Custom Line turnouts were, I think, power routing and needed gaps in the diverging frog rails. It was later versions that came to be made the way they are today - electrically the same as Snap Track, but geometrically like a proper prototypical turnout.
The things you find reading all the old MRs - I read, a LOT, so when I first got the 75 year DVD I started with Volume 1 Number 1 and read them all in order up to the time I had a steady subscription.
rrinker . . . plus I make sure the pickups are all working . . .
. . . plus I make sure the pickups are all working . . .
How should I go about checking to see if the pickups on my diesel are working properly?
I spent some time this afternoon running my engines through the turnouts to see exactly what is happening. I have found that my 2-8-8-2 does not have any problem with the turnouts.
It's all very confusing. When you look on the Atlas web site, they show the Code 83 #6 as Custom Line and the Code 83 #8 as Custom Line-Mark IV.
A little research confirmed Atlas Custom Line introduced in late 1955 or early 1956 andwas offered side by side with Snap Track and the old fiber tie track line. I think the fiber tie turnouts lasted until the early/mid 60's.
richhotrain It's all very confusing. When you look on the Atlas web site, they show the Code 83 #6 as Custom Line and the Code 83 #8 as Custom Line-Mark IV. Rich
Not sure why they did that, but understand the whole code 83 line has always had all the features of the code 100 Mark IV.
The code 83 line also includes the #6 "Super Switch", which from an electrical and rail standpoint is the same as a Custom Line but has ties and leads like a Walthers turnout - a longer straight end on the diverging route.
ATLANTIC CENTRAL Walthers code 83 is a nice track line, no question. I use it for specials like slip switches. But it is not without its own issues as you likely know. Sheldon
Sheldon,
Haven't noticed any particular issues. I do power the switch frogs. And I do have feeders soldered to the switch points. All of the mainline switches are #10, both "DCC friendly" and "not". I didn't run an NMRA gage through, so maybe there's something there. On t'other hand, see "no particular problems".
One of my big gripes with factory switches is the enormous gap between the points and the stock rails. I hope, in my "you never can tell" upcoming module, to minimize that gap.
Another lesser problem is that the railhead is a snidge (technical term) wider than scale, while the Micro Engineering is pretty much correct. That, too, shows. But not horribly, like the points gap.
That said, what issues do ya have in mind?
7j43k ATLANTIC CENTRAL Walthers code 83 is a nice track line, no question. I use it for specials like slip switches. But it is not without its own issues as you likely know. Sheldon Sheldon, Haven't noticed any particular issues. I do power the switch frogs. And I do have feeders soldered to the switch points. All of the mainline switches are #10, both "DCC friendly" and "not". I didn't run an NMRA gage through, so maybe there's something there. On t'other hand, see "no particular problems". One of my big gripes with factory switches is the enormous gap between the points and the stock rails. I hope, in my "you never can tell" upcoming module, to minimize that gap. Another lesser problem is that the railhead is a snidge (technical term) wider than scale, while the Micro Engineering is pretty much correct. That, too, shows. But not horribly, like the points gap. That said, what issues do ya have in mind? Ed
As long as you are using NMRA standards, you need a pretty good "gap" at the points to allow for track gauge vs wheel gauge. I never really engineered how small would be too small......
I've never used the #10, or even built a #10 from scratch, #8's always seemed "big enough" to look good, so I don't have any direct experiance with them or too much relatively new Walther trackage. I have some slips from about 8 years ago, they are fine.
But there have been comments from others about track gauge issues and throw bars, guess it depends a bit on the user as well.
Guess I'm just not that picky, a well balasted, painted and weathered Atlas #6 or #8 looks just fine to me, they work well, they are afordable, and I like their electrical properties for my DC Cab Control w/detection and signals.
I learned to hand lay track from my father who helped me with the Tru-Scale and from the guys who build the Severna Park Model Railroad Club layout. It's easy but time consuming.......
I just checked the points clearance on one of my #10's with an NMRA gage. Clearance on the points is approximately twice the gage allowance. Pretty silly looking, really.
I'm gonna make that gap as small as possible the next time I build a switch. There should be no electrical problem, because each point will have the same polarity as its respective stock rail--no short! About the only scary thing is going to be a wheel flange hitting a point as it approaches. Which, of course, is not acceptable. Touching, yes. "Bumping", absolutely not.
What I'd LOVE to do is have a stiff wire going down vertically from each point end of a switch. And then have a link between the two wires (one from each point) underneath that I could use to make the gap adjustable. Admittedly, a dream. But neat if it can be made to reliably work.