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DCC wiring testing

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  • Member since
    December 2009
  • 104 posts
DCC wiring testing
Posted by 1arfarf3 on Monday, January 2, 2017 10:27 AM

Bought dcc layout that was wired after layout was originally built in sections. All wiring ran under layout and all had to be cut to disassemble and take apart sections to move. Wiring is missing under layout so I'm wiring using teriminal strips at each section. Getting ready to attach power feeders and want to test each track section as I go to be sure no connectivity issues. Thought about using an engine to test track but feel that may be a bad idea if there is an electrical issue.

How do I test using a multi meter? What voltage number(s) am I looking for, etc?

Any assistance greatly appreciated.

Thanks. 

 

  • Member since
    May 2004
  • 7,500 posts
Posted by 7j43k on Monday, January 2, 2017 11:01 AM

I recommend getting out your old power pack.  Run some clip leads from its track power screws over to either the section of track you want to test or the wires underneath feeding it.

You should use you meter on the DC Volt scale.  You should be getting something like 12 volts across the rails everywhere you test.  My meter automatically corrects for placing the probes "wrong" (+ and -, and all that).  If yours doesn't, the needle will likely ping over to the left.  Change probe positions.

You could also use the AC accessory output.  And the AC Volts scale on your meter.  That'll read about 16 volts and you won't have to wonder about which probe goes on which rail.

 

I would say that's the simplest "safest" way to test.

 

Ed

  • Member since
    August 2003
  • From: Collinwood, Ohio, USA
  • 16,367 posts
Posted by gmpullman on Monday, January 2, 2017 1:59 PM

Hi, Arfarf

One think I found to be very helpful when wiring sections of my layout was to mark each rail—and you can designate these rails as A and B or North and South or Red and Black—as long as you are consistent.

I used Avery color-coding dots, 1/4" round, removable, stick-on dots and placed them every two-feet or less, more in complex turnout areas to help me make sure I didn't cross-wire anything.

Another helpful idea is to have a piece of rolling stock, flat car or gon maybe, and mark one side with tape or paint then KEEP it on the track so that when you roll it around the layout the marked side will ALWAYS be over the same designated rail.

It is amazing how easily one feeder can be accidentally reversed, now you have a short and it may take a long time to figure out which feeder is causing the problem.

Use wire colors that will correspond to your rail designation (A-B; Red Black, whatever) and stay consistent.

If you use a bi-color LED and a 750 or 1KΩ resistor it will show red or green if you have DC feeding the rails during testing, and don't change the direction switch.

Later on, when you have the DCC wired up, you will want to do the good ol' Digitrax "quarter test" to be sure the breaker trips.

I also use a DCC RR Amp meter and an automotive 1156 lamp as a ballast load. Even if an LED lights during testing that doesn't mean that a loose rail joint or poor solder connection won't cause poor conductivity. By having the current draw of that lamp it places a bit of a load across the rails, then you can measure voltage while the load is applied.

Good Luck, Ed

  • Member since
    July 2009
  • From: lavale, md
  • 4,677 posts
Posted by gregc on Monday, January 2, 2017 3:04 PM

i wired up LEDs on a caboose and would run the caboose over the track as I wired it up.

It would be better if both wheels on both trucks were live and LEDs were wired catycorner so that you can tell if both rails are wired properly as you push the caboose across the boundary between blocks (one truck in each section).

greg - Philadelphia & Reading / Reading

  • Member since
    December 2009
  • 104 posts
Posted by 1arfarf3 on Monday, January 2, 2017 4:16 PM
Got one out and tested AC and DC.  Readings both ways were about 20 or very slightly under but over 19. These readings are above what you mentioned.
The AC terminals on the power pack list 16 volts.
The DC terminals list 12 volts.
A third set of terminals are labeled Variable DC. Did not test from this set..
Any problem of the higher readings than you mentioned? What might be the cause of the higher readings?
Thanks.
  • Member since
    October 2006
  • From: Western, MA
  • 8,571 posts
Posted by richg1998 on Monday, January 2, 2017 4:28 PM

This is normal for unloaded power packs and wall warts.

Rich

If you ever fall over in public, pick yourself up and say “sorry it’s been a while since I inhabited a body.” And just walk away.

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