Hello everyone,
I was planning to install my TCS wow sound decoder today (my first decoder install) and I realized I never reserched what type of solder is best. All I have right now is .032" diameter 60/40 Rosin-core from radioshack. Will this work? Everything is closed today so I can't go get anything else.
Simple answer....Yes. Hopefully, You have a pencil tip soldering iron in the 25/30 watt range.
Take Care!
Frank
I'd say you're good to go! I have used the same RS 64-005B for many installs. Recently I have gone to .016 dia. that a friend gave me for fine work.
Are you soldering directly to the board or using wire splices?
Either way it helps to tin the wire. Sometimes the insulation shrinks back when heat is applied so by tinning you not only get a better joint, you can trim off the excess exposed wire once the insulation shrinks back. Some insulation seems to shrink more than others.
Don't forget to slip a piece of heat-shrink tubing over the wire first. How many times have I forgotten that step!
Good Luck, Ed
60/40 Rosin-core is the correct type of solder. Typically I like to use a smaller diameter solder but .032 will work in a pinch. Which type of TCS decoder is it? The board replacement type or hardwire with harness?
You have been given good advice and keep the tip clean with a damp sponge.
Sounds like you first soldering project. I have learned over the years, good soldering is an acquired art so practice on scrap material first. The result should be shiny and smooth. Not lumpy and rough looking.
A Google search for proper soldering will bring up many results and even You Tube videos.
Rich
If you ever fall over in public, pick yourself up and say “sorry it’s been a while since I inhabited a body.” And just walk away.
I have done some soldering recently, The trackwork and the feeder wires on my layout required soldering. I have also gone to solder and electrical safety training at work, where we had to fix laboratory equipment.
I am going to be installing the TCS WDK-ATH-3 Kit. So i will be taking out the original lighting board and soldering these connections to the the TCS GEN-MBI motherboard. Then it is just soldering the speaker wires to the motherboard as well and popping on the wow 121 21 pin decoder. They have excellent photos on the TCS website so i am not nearly as nervous about openin up my favorite loco as i thought i would be
Spartan
That is good to know. Your question made me wonder.
I recommend the TCS site to others. Nice information.
As others have stated, you can get by with what you have. Smaller diameter solder is recommended for small joints. Also depends on the size of the tip on your soldering iron. I got a smaller one for my soldering station and then only AFTER i turned it on the other day did I realize I had wanted to swap in one of the smaller tips. No worriers, I had no problem soldering an electronics kitm abd everything else I've ever soldered with it was done with this size tip anyway.
I do use smaller diameter solder for fine wires and pc boards like when installing decoders. When you get more solder, get 63/37 instead of the 60/40. 63/37 is a eutectic alloy which means it goes from melted to frozen without any intermediate phase. For a joint that is already mechanically fixed it place it doesn't matter much, but one of the biggest causes of a poor solder joint (after the dirty iron tip) is moving the joint before it fully freezes. This happens easier with 60/40 than it does with 63/37. One good thing is that leaded solder (which is perfectly safe to use - just don't eat it and wash your hands after working with it) is nice and shiny when it freezes properly. If the joint was moved before it fully cooled, you will get a dull looking spot. Reheating it and letting it cool without moving and it will be fine. The new lead-free junk, even when the joint is perfect, is always dull looking.
--Randy
Modeling the Reading Railroad in the 1950's
Visit my web site at www.readingeastpenn.com for construction updates, DCC Info, and more.
Most solder today is leadd-free, and needs to be to meet certain international specifications. Solder that does have lead in it is better for electronic work, just so long as you are not exporting the product.
The Route of the Broadway Lion The Largest Subway Layout in North Dakota.
Here there be cats. LIONS with CAMERAS
Thanks for all the info guys, I havent got to any actual soldering yet due to a small hiccup not being able to get the front coupler box out. I got the rear one out fine and the shell off however i cannot get the box out. I ended up breaking the plastic coupler so i will need to put in new Kadees (another thing to order).
Any ideas on what i need to get the box out? I dont want to put to much pressure on it and break the plow or something else.I have to get it out to replace the coupler now. Here are some photos
Just had an Atlas Classic RS-3 apart, a small flat screwdriver to push box out far enough to grab with fingers and wiggle out. If you trash plastic coupler so much the better, you won't be tempted to reuse them.
Hello All,
I wanted to give an update and also ask one more question. I have taken out the old light board and soldered on my connections to the new TCS motherboard.
My Question is did i solder correctly? (I do not think i did)
I followed the TCS instalation guide (Here) and i got hung up on the wording, The ditch light bulbs are connected to the solder pads marked "1", "2". The solder pad marked "1.5V" is the common power source for the bulbs.
It looks like from the solder pads 1 and 2 there is only one wire connected to each in my wiring i have 2 (one from each ditch light).
Do i need to unsolder one set from either 1 or 2 and solder it to the 1.5 V solder pad? And then unsolder the other set and individually put them on 1 and 2?
Besides this lack of understanding i think the install is going well so far, i am having a lot of fun learning my way around DCC. Below is a photo of the whole board with one of the sets of ditch lights still on the original board.
I was taking my time and only removing one wire from the old board and then applying it to the new board.
Another update - Still cannot get this gosh darn coupler box out!
Hi SpartanCook:
You should only have one wire on each of pads 1 and 2, one from one ditch light on pad '1', and one from the other ditch light on pad '2'. The other ditch light bulb leads both go to the 1.5v pad. This arrangement allows the decoder to power each ditch light independantly so that you can have alternating flashing ditch lights. Note that you will have more than the ditch light common wires soldered to the 1.5v pad. One lead from all other lights will be attached to it too.
Also note that we are referring to the wiring for 1.5v incandescent bulbs only! If you switch to LEDs you will need to install resistors in series with each LED and you will have to observe the correct polarity for each of the LEDs. You will also not be using the 1.5v pad for the common wires. There should be a 12v common pad to hook the LEDs up to.
Dave
I'm just a dude with a bad back having a lot of fun with model trains, and finally building a layout!
Thanks dave!
Am i right in my understanding that it doesnt matter which lead goes to the 1.5 v pad from the ditch light? as long as the other goes to the correct 1 or 2 pad?
also does it matter what lead from the speaker goes to a particular speaker pad?
I will have to fix the ditch lights tomorrow after work. Just heard my baby cry so i will be on dad duty the rest of the night
You are right. It doesn't matter which lead goes to which pad for either the ditch lights (or the speaker) as long as you are using incandescent bulbs.
However, for future reference, if you do an installation with two or four speakers you need to wire the speakers so the polarity is the same for all speakers. The problem is that most speakers do not show the polarity of the leads so you have to go by the physical positioning of the wires to get them all the same.
By the way, FWIW, I love the TCS mother board design with the keep alive capacitors already built in. Loksound, please pay attention!
Sorry I can't help with the coupler removal. Dumb design IMPO.
Thanks again for the info Dave, I love coming to this forum for help with stuff like this. everyone is so generous sharing tips and helping to avoid mistakes.
Ok guys, here is the update after rewiring, the loco is running on DCC! I ran it around the mainline once or twice and played with the preset sounds, it sounds great. I didn't have time to do anything other than change the address but here is a video of the loco up and running. Now I just need to replace the couplers, thanks for everyones help!
SpartanCook:
Congratulations on a successful decoder installation! Did you get the ditch lights to work the way you wanted?