I find I've enjoyed converting new or like-new diesels from DC to DCC w/sound to the point that I prefer doing the conversions myself. Not necessarily cost efficient, but I get to choose the decoder (usually LokSound Select 6Aux) and optimize the speaker installation (even milling the frame to do so). For context, I've converted a bunch of LifeLike diesels, some Katos and one (to-do) Atlas RS-1, most all in UP.
Having said that, and having run through most of the (nearly ideal) LifeLike new in box offerings, I'm wondering what other options might exist, especially in diesels (steam would be good, if easy enough) of different types, so I'll ask:
- can you advise on current Athearn offerings, are the drive trains the same or different (and does it matter) between the Genesis and lower line? I can see the detail differences (e.g., current GP50) but don't know the drive train qualities.
- since more DC items are offerred with a DCC w/sound alternative, how do I figure out if the DC version has the weight, fuel tank, etc ready for a speaker? any examples?
I figure my primary options on new offerings will be Kato, Athearn Genesis and RTR, Atlas, Intermountain and Bowser. So I'm interested in understanding how to assess these (any others?).
Paul
Modeling HO with a transition era UP bent
One place to get ideas is to check out Rick Bell's RPM Clinics group on Yahoo. Mainly the files section. They do one loco at a time, and discussion is limited to the loco being done, but after each one is complete, the pictures and text are compiled into a PDF for each one, which you cna download and read. Some are fairly easy but most of them are ones that require a bit of work, and it's all detailed in the PDF.
Another place for inspiration is the TCS install pictures. While the majority are non-sound, they DO give a peak "under the hood" so you can see what's inside many different locos to get an idea of how much work is involved in making speaker room if it doesn't already exist.
Athearn RTR drives aren't the same as Genesis, but they are much better thn the old Blue Box ones, particularly the motor is MUCH better. The RTR is at least as good as the P2K clones, many of which were just clones of the BB with a better motor. There can be pickup issues in part thanks to the piece of plastic they stick in there now to hide the shiny metal truck frame, but it's nothing soldering some fine flexible wire can't fix.
Never had any Genesis locos, they don;t make anything in that series for my road and era, but Intermountain's DC versions seem to come with speaker space already in place (and apparantly they will sell you the Loksound decoder and speaker for the price difference between the sound and non sound versions), and the Atlas Silver locos have generally come with the same internals as the Gold series, with the speaker mounts in place. Bowsers thus far, the sound and non sound versions are different, no prepared speaker space in the non sound versions, at least on the older and smaller locos. Dunno about the newest releases.
--Randy
Modeling the Reading Railroad in the 1950's
Visit my web site at www.readingeastpenn.com for construction updates, DCC Info, and more.
peahrens For context, I've converted a bunch of LifeLike diesels, some Katos and one (to-do) Atlas RS-1, most all in UP.
For context, I've converted a bunch of LifeLike diesels, some Katos and one (to-do) Atlas RS-1, most all in UP.
Rich
Alton Junction
Randy that sounds like an excellent resource. If I am going to convert my own engines, more help than a before and after picture.
Henry
COB Potomac & Northern
Shenandoah Valley
Randy, thanks, I've signed up for the group and will check out the files section. Also interesting to understand the 2 Athearn drive trains. The LifeLike Protos I've done have mostly been ok on drive trains (attending to any cracked gears) except a SD7 I just completed, the noisiest I've encountered, break-in reducing the noise but not completely. Somewhat noticeable at normal cruise speeds.
Rich, my Atlas RS-1 is next up. I removed the circuit board and will grind down the plastic board catch's (on the verticals) to flat, then a LokSound Select 6Aux will fit easily above the motor. I will add a piece of thin styrene under it, bridging the vertical tabs.
The long hood light pipe box (removed in the photo below) is made to accommodate an oval speaker. But I will probably use twin 13x18mm Knowles Grand speakers in a 0.040" styrene enclosure. It will go above the metal verticals near the long hood truck. I did grind those metal verticals down somewhat, which will allow about a 10mm height speaker enclosure. This unit has a unitized metal "mainframe", unlike the P2Ks where the weight is separate from the frame/platforms. This made the grinding interesting as I did not want to disassemble everything on this new loco (handrails, etc) to grind the verticals. So I taped everything up and carefully ground the verticals sucessfully. I just checked whether an oval speaker on hand will fit (a LokSound) and the enclosure is just a tad too wide, including that the shell thickness varies. That could likely be handled by just sanding the enclosure sides slightly to reduce the wall thickness. Here's a photo before starting the install:
On lighting, the photo does not show the large rectangular light pipe / speaker box which I removed already from the long hood end. I will simply glue a LED to the remaining lens. On the cab end the light pipe is shown, which will probably also go. It goes to the number boards and headlight but the number boards are solid plastic, painted, without numbers, which is baffling. Not sure this loco came with number boards, unlit or to be lit. I'll have to check that when I get to work.
Paul,
Try putting a drop of ultralight or light oil on the bearing at the end of the gear tower. That might quiet down the SD7s loud noises.
I lubed the gears with LaBelle grease and lubed the motor, worm gear bearings and U-joints lightly with their light oil. I think this guy might just not be right, unless I missed a spot.
peahrens Rich, my Atlas RS-1 is next up. I removed the circuit board and will grind down the plastic board catch's (on the verticals) to flat, then a LokSound Select 6Aux will fit easily above the motor. I will add a piece of thin styrene under it, bridging the vertical tabs. The long hood light pipe box (removed in the photo below) is made to accommodate an oval speaker. But I will probably use twin 13x18mm Knowles Grand speakers in a 0.040" styrene enclosure. It will go above the metal verticals near the long hood truck. I did grind those metal verticals down somewhat, which will allow about a 10mm height speaker enclosure. This unit has a unitized metal "mainframe", unlike the P2Ks where the weight is separate from the frame/platforms. This made the grinding interesting as I did not want to disassemble everything on this new loco (handrails, etc) to grind the verticals. So I taped everything up and carefully ground the verticals sucessfully. I just checked whether an oval speaker on hand will fit (a LokSound) and the enclosure is just a tad too wide, including that the shell thickness varies. That could likely be handled by just sanding the enclosure sides slightly to reduce the wall thickness. Here's a photo before starting the install: On lighting, the photo does not show the large rectangular light pipe / speaker box which I removed already from the long hood end. I will simply glue a LED to the remaining lens. On the cab end the light pipe is shown, which will probably also go. It goes to the number boards and headlight but the number boards are solid plastic, painted, without numbers, which is baffling. Not sure this loco came with number boards, unlit or to be lit. I'll have to check that when I get to work.