Some of you might recall that sometime ago I started a discussion on how to install LED turnout indicators on my N scale DCC layout using Atlas snap switches. Well, just in case anyone is interested, I ended up using Atlas snap relays connected to the snap turnouts, and then two bi-directional LEDs per relay (one on each side of the track). Yes I just surfaced mounted them by the turnouts rather than building a control panel, since the layout is small and a lot less work. The snap relays were the most expensive, but the bi-directional LEDs only ran like $3 each in a bulk order of twenty.
DaveM but the bi-directional LEDs only ran like $3 each in a bulk order of twenty.
I'm glad you got your indicators working to your liking... but did you say you paid $60 for 20 bicolor LEDs?
You can certainly find a better price than that!
Scroll down toward the bottom of the page for bi-color:
http://www.led-switch.com/3mm%20LED.htm
Or go to the main page and select other shapes and sizes. He has yellow/red which I sometimes use in yard switches.
There are other suppliers as well but I have had very good results over the years from LEDswitch (William Moldovan).
Have Fun, Ed
gmpullman DaveM but the bi-directional LEDs only ran like $3 each in a bulk order of twenty. I'm glad you got your indicators working to your liking... but did you say you paid $60 for 20 bicolor LEDs? You can certainly find a better price than that! Scroll down toward the bottom of the page for bi-color: http://www.led-switch.com/3mm%20LED.htm Or go to the main page and select other shapes and sizes. He has yellow/red which I sometimes use in yard switches. There are other suppliers as well but I have had very good results over the years from LEDswitch (William Moldovan). Have Fun, Ed
The thing I liked about these is that they are not only bi-directional but also came preassembled with resistors attached, so all I had to do was solder attach.
The extent people go to to avoid learning to solder... $1.50 for 10 LEDs, so $3 for 20 of them, and resistors in a pack of 100 are like 1 cent each, so another $1 for more then enough resistors. About 16 cents per LED with resistor if you solder it yourself, vs $3 each. Saving over $56 on the project. And then if you include some value on your time - it takes no more than 30 minutes to solder 20 resistors to 20 LEDs. So that works out to the equivalent of paying yourself over $112/hr.
Even if you had to buy the soldering iron - the very nice soldering station I have cost less than $50, so you'd STILL be ahead, and that's with getting a quality tool that will last a lifetime. I $10 or so 15 watt iron would also work.
Do take some wire scraps and get a soldering iron and practice a bit - in some cases, we have to value time as "hobby time" because the 'savings' in DIY is only if you don't count the time spent, but in cases like this, even if you value your time at an absurd rate you still come out way ahead. You can carry on with adding LED headlights to locos, too. 60 cent LED and 1 cent resistor vs what is probably a $4-$5 pre-made LED.
Even if you fry a couple of LEDs due to lack of experience, STILL way ahead on cost, but if you practice a few times with wire scraps before tackling an LED you'll find it really is pretty easy to do. Resistors are not directional so you can't mess it up. LEDs are, but with a bidirectional one, if you get red when you wanted green you just flip the whole assembly around. That's a mistake that could be made with pre-wired ones too.
Maybe it's just me. I'm FAR from being some Bill Gates, but I'm not exactly 'poor' - and I don't think I would have even considered doing this project if it cost me that much just for the LEDs. That $56 could buy me a locomotive on ebay, a Proto Geep or similar, although since I already have all the factory painted Reading ones, I'd be looking at some random road name to strip and repaint.
--Randy
Modeling the Reading Railroad in the 1950's
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