Switching to N Scale and DCC

[exPat]

Hi, Im lookung at switching to N scale & DCC and the period im looking at some of the locos available are the older Atlas non DCC ready locos, my question is how easy is the conversion using replacement frames?

 

Shaun

[Adelie]

That is a bit of a difficult question to answer.  Some older, non-DCC Atlas locomotives with the dual light boards can be converted using TCS decoders designed for that specific situation (some soldering to get wires between the two boards, but nothing major).

I looked into converting several Atlas and other non-DCC units using replacement frames molded/milled for the specific unit.  Those locomotives are still sitting in various drawers and boxes because I never got around to it and, in many cases, newer versions of the same model became available that were designed to be converted.

The biggest issue I anticipated was soldering feeds to the motor brush connectors and keeping those isolated from the frame, and figuring out how to best route the wires.

I model the late 50s, if that gives you any point of reference.

[richhotrain]

Switching to N scale?

What scale are you in now?

Do you really want to take on so much?  Switching to N scale, getting into DCC, and then converting non-DCC locos to DCC?  A bit much, don't you think?

Rich

[trwroute]

davidmbedard

Easy is so subjective. I am a professional DCC installer and I made the switch from N scale back to HO because of some short commings of DCC and N scale.

 

 

David, I'm going to have to disagree with you.  I used to install decoders too (at last count, over 3000 of them).  I only do them for myself now because I got so burned out doing it.

 

Anyway, over the weekend, I installed a DZ126 Digitrax in an old Atlas / Kato GP35.  Since the decoder was so small, very little needs to be done to the frame for it to fit.  Fairly easy install and the loco runs great.

 

Years ago, I did use a couple Southern Digital replacement frames.  I didn't really care much for them because they were kind of soft and easily bent.  Not sure if they are different now or not.  I have used some frames from Aztec and they do work great since they are just the original frames that have been milled to accept the DCC stuff.  But, I have found it much easier and cost effective to just cut them myself, saving both time and money.

 

Go with N scale and DCC...you won't be sorry!

[trwroute]

Can't say I blame you on that!  If you ever want to be challenged, install a decoder in an LGB track cleaner diesel.  Fun times!

[CSX Robert]

davidmbedard

...I made the switch from N scale back to HO because of some short commings of DCC and N scale.

In my opinion, the only short comings for N scale are the varity of what's available and sound.  There is a lot available in N-scale, but still not as much as HO, and the physics dictate that N-scale sound, although improving, simply is not going to be as good as HO (likewise O is better than HO and G is better than O).

[CSX Robert]

Adelie

Some older, non-DCC Atlas locomotives with the dual light boards can be converted using TCS decoders designed for that specific situation (some soldering to get wires between the two boards, but nothing major).

Adelie

I looked into converting several Atlas and other non-DCC units using replacement frames molded/milled for the specific unit.  Those locomotives are still sitting in various drawers and boxes because I never got around to it and, in many cases, newer versions of the same model became available that were designed to be converted. The biggest issue I anticipated was soldering feeds to the motor brush connectors and keeping those isolated from the frame, and figuring out how to best route the wires.

 

With the split board decoders from TCS, you still have to isoolate the motors and solder to the motor brush connectors.

[CSX Robert]

davidmbedard

...If you want something that has good pulling power, you must use a decoder with a smaller footprint. A decoder with a smaller foot print will not tolerate over amp drawage that a more robust decoder can handle. If you want a more robust decoder, you give up pulling weight...

I can get decoders the size of my fingernail that can handle 1 amp continuous and 1.5 amps peak, way more than enough power for any N-scale loco that I have.

 

[woodone]

With some of the newer sound decoders you can get sound too. By using the small cell phone speakers the sound is way too loud anyway. 

[exPat]

Hi I model in OO so most things I build are kits although this time I opted out of building the track as I had done in the past but all the buildings are card and rolling stock a mixture of brass, plastic and whitemetal kits. So I dont think switching back to N Scale is too much to take on.

 

Shaun

[rrinker]

 If my friend can get decoders in his N scale locos... you've perhaps seen those Camelbacks that RDG Casey builds in HO, using commercial mechanism with scratchbuilt superstructures? He does the same - in N scale. Mostly with tender drives to pack as much weight as possible over the drivers so they actuall pull something. Once the motor is in the tender, there's not much room for anything else - he uses the microscopic Zimo and CT decoders, and somehow manages to solder the wires all on. I consider myself to be pretty good at soldering but I don't know how he deals with those tiny pieces of wire to strip them - we're talking the decoder leads cut back to 1/2" or so to fit and not prevent the tender shell from going on. But somehow he manages, and they run quite well.

                 --Randy

 

[Adelie]

CSX Robert

 With the split board decoders from TCS, you still have to isoolate the motors and solder to the motor brush connectors.

 

 

My bad, that is correct.  I have installed them in three older RSD-4/5s and took the opportunity to upgrade the motors to the slow speed variety, so I had to disassemble the entire unit, anyway.

 

The process was not exactly rocket science.