Hi all,
I need some advice fitting decoders and speakers in a pair of Ho scale Life Like Proto 2000 SD60/60M units. I am looking at using SoundTraxx Tsunami Decoder 828042 (TSU-AT1000) for EMD 710 Diesel Engines (3rd Generation) with a SoundTraxx 810112 Oval Speaker. Will these two work fine together, and what is the best way to go about modifying the chassis/ weight? I am planning to mount the speaker under the radiator fans so the sound can escape the shell, will I stilll need to make a baffle for this. This will be my first dcc conversion, so any tips will help.
Thanks,
Anthony
I converted a P2K SD50 & SD60 but with different components. I happened to use a LokSound Select decoder (with appropriate sound file) and used sugarcube speakers, a pair in front and a pair in the long hood. In each case I needed to modify the weight. In one case I used my bench grinder (carefully!) but the downside was the heat buildup allowed the cheap metal to weaken and bend and I managed to break it into two pieces, but easily epoxied back together. On the second, I had a machine shop do it (for $20). I've since found an acquaintance car buff who has a milling machine, the best option.
On the speaker, an enclosure is certainly recommended. You can make one with some sheet styrene and make it work with the speaker, weight and shell. If the weight is open / slotted, the speaker can fire downward but if the fans are open firing upward is fine.
EDIT: I'll add a couple of photos. The decoder sits over the motor. The front speaker has two smaller sugarcube speakers, using the weight as the floor and adding two sides and sealing any opening slits with silicone to ensure the enclosure is complete. The rear speakers are two larger sugarcubes, and a fairly shallow enclosure box.
Paul
Modeling HO with a transition era UP bent
QRNational4101 Hi all, I need some advice fitting decoders and speakers in a pair of Ho scale Life Like Proto 2000 SD60/60M units. I am looking at using SoundTraxx Tsunami Decoder 828042 (TSU-AT1000) for EMD 710 Diesel Engines (3rd Generation) with a SoundTraxx 810112 Oval Speaker. Will these two work fine together, and what is the best way to go about modifying the chassis/ weight? I am planning to mount the speaker under the radiator fans so the sound can escape the shell, will I stilll need to make a baffle for this. This will be my first dcc conversion, so any tips will help. Thanks, Anthony
You may have to cut on the inside of the shell to get that decoder to fit in the pre-milled out section of the chassis. On my P2K SD60s there is a pair of plastic tubes that are for screws that you remove just forward of the rear truck to get the shell off. The TSU-1000 EMD 710 (827103) might be a better fit (toss the 8 pin adapter, the lighting board, and the giant light bulbs). Measure first to be sure. The speaker you chose should work. Also this thing looks like it has an Athearn motor system clone. The frame may be energized from the bottom motor lead. This should not be an issue due to this locomotive having a plastic fuel tank and the left and right rail power pick-ups are attached directly to the trucks.
The speaker you listed should work with the decoder you listed. Getting it to fit would be another story. The space is 55mm x 17mm (its a bit wider than 17mm but I rounded down). The TSU 1000 should fit exactly. The TSU-1000 also has the added bonus of a plug recepticle for the speaker.
To get the speaker you mentioned in without cutting the shell screw attachment points you will need to file about 13mm of the weight aft of the 2 indentions down to the level of the decoder mounting area. (13mm x 14mm x 7mm) Length x width x depth. I would suggest looking into a different 8 ohm speaker. If you give up the little detail part just behind the cab inside the shell you have a nice 19mm x 17mm x 11mm space that should do nicely. The speaker you chose will not fit that space, but there are many small speakers out there, you should be able to find one that matches the decoder specs (1watt 8ohm) If the speaker can put out 1.5W thats okay, .5W will result in distortion. Zimo LS10x15x8 should fit nicely in either location (1mm filing aft, 0 front) (there is also one that is 10x15x11), I cannot speak to the quality of the speaker.
TCS has a simple picture explanation of putting in a drop in dcc only decoder:
http://www.tcsdcc.com/Customer_Content/Installation_Pictures/HO_Scale/Life_Like/Proto_2000_SD_60%20Special%20Edition/LL8/Proto%202000%20SD%2060.html
If nothing else it should help you get the shell off if you haven't already figured that out.
I would strongly reccomend swapping the light bulbs for LEDs and resistors. Those bulbs generate a lot of heat and dont last as long as an LED.
I would also stongly suggest reading books about DCC install before attempting your first project. Additionally go through the DCC portion of the forums, you will pick up lots of tips and do's/don'ts. (The only decoder I fried so far was one where I shorted one of the function leads to the track power by not taping the un-used lead; lesson learned: insulate and secure any un-used wire ends when installing a decoder.)