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LED book...

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  • Member since
    February 2002
  • From: Reading, PA
  • 30,002 posts
Posted by rrinker on Tuesday, March 10, 2015 10:56 PM

chutton01

Well, as promised, I checked my scavanged LEDs in the test circuit.
VR ≈ 28.8mv
R = 10.0Ω
Therefore, current for 1 LED ≈ 28.8/10.0 ≈ 2.9mA, and a thousand LEDs (easy proposition on a large layout) would be 3A, which is not bad at all.

For comparison, I also measured an old school late 1980s Red LED. It pulled only 3.9mA, which I found very surprising, I figured on a magnitude higher.

Circuit was 10Ω resistor (to measure across), 1KΩ resistor, LED, 9V battery - and an old knife switch I found among my electric part box (for on/off control in style) - all components snuggly plugged into my late 1980s Archer® Experimental Breadboard Geeked

 

 Now you are too low. You aren't calculating or measuring things correctly. When the LED is operating normally in a circuit with a power supply, resistor, and the LED, it's the forward voltage that matters. This is going to be around 3.5 volts for a white LED, unless they are really wierd ones.

 Now we need to start witht he absolute basics, before even Ohm's Law. This is Kirchoff's Law. Simplified, what Kirchoff's Laws state is that components in series add voltage. So if you put 12V into the circuit, and the LED 'consumes' 3.5 volts of it, what's left is 'consumed' by the resistor. In this case, 8.5 volts (12 - 3.5). Kirchoff's Laws also state that loads in series share the same current. An LED does not draw a fixed current, but a resistor is a linear device and does. So if we want the LED current to be around 10ma, we also want the resistor current to be around 10ma. Mow we have 2 out of the 3 values for Ohm's Law to come into play - we know the voltage (8.5) across the resistor, and we know the current, 10ma.  Solving for R, we get R=E/I, 8.5/.010, 850 ohms.  Resistors are not available in every single value, so you pick the closest standard value, or larger. If you use a 1K resistor and work backwards, you get the 8.5ma I mentioned previously.

 So hook one up to a 12V power supply with a 1K resistor. Measure the power supply boltage. The use the meter in volts mode and measure the voltage across the LED, it should be somewhere around 3.5 volts. Do the same across the 1K resistor - it should be (power suppy voltage) - (voltage measured across LED). Set the meter to ma mode and insert it in the circuit (anywhere is fine: ps - meter - led - resistor - ps, ps - resistor - meter - led - ps, any combo is all the same per Kirchoff's Law) and it should read 8.5ma or so, depending on the actual ps voltage.

      --Randy

and one of these days I will remember to copy this and paste it on my web page so I can just post the link instead of retyping effectively the same thing every time I explain this.


Modeling the Reading Railroad in the 1950's

 

Visit my web site at www.readingeastpenn.com for construction updates, DCC Info, and more.

  • Member since
    February 2007
  • From: Christiana, TN
  • 2,134 posts
Posted by CSX Robert on Wednesday, March 11, 2015 8:27 AM

rrinker
Now you are too low. You aren't calculating or measuring things correctly. When the LED is operating normally in a circuit with a power supply, resistor, and the LED, it's the forward voltage that matters...

No, he did measure it correctly (I=V/R, current = volts/resistance), although there was no need to add the extra 10 ohm resistor because he could have just measured the voltage drop across the 1k resistor and calculated it from there..  The 10 ohm resistor actually reduced the current draw slightly, but it would have been neglegible in this case.  In fact, this is the same thing as inserting a multimeter set to current in the circuit - the meter measures the volatge drop across a low value resistance to determine the current draw.

  • Member since
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Posted by chutton01 on Wednesday, March 11, 2015 9:18 AM

CSX Robert
 
rrinker
Now you are too low. You aren't calculating or measuring things correctly. When the LED is operating normally in a circuit with a power supply, resistor, and the LED, it's the forward voltage that matters...

 

No, he did measure it correctly (I=V/R, current = volts/resistance), although there was no need to add the extra 10 ohm resistor because he could have just measured the voltage drop across the 1k resistor and calculated it from there..  The 10 ohm resistor actually reduced the current draw slightly, but it would have been neglegible in this case.  In fact, this is the same thing as inserting a multimeter set to current in the circuit - the meter measures the volatge drop across a low value resistance to determine the current draw.



Well, I have a MSEE, so I believe I know what I am doing (I also learned practical electrical wiring from dad, so I can work on house wiring - yes, to code - but then again any model railroader worthy of the title should be able to do that).

BTW, the reason for the 10Ω resistor in the test setup is simply because the setup has a number of parallel LED legs (about 8) so I could try different resistor combos to see what happens in the real world, and I wanted one single point in series for measuring overall current (for this single LED measurement, I disconnected the other wires and had one circuit loop only). This is because I plan to create lots of standard LED+resistor combo, soldered together, so I can put them in structures in a modular fashion using the two brass "rails" suspended across the ceiling method that's fairly common nowadays (I vaguely have plans of using two brass tubing with holes drilled in that the LED/R combo drops in for easy soldering, but I'm sure the real world will prove this impractical or too pricey).

The annoying thing is I am using my good multimeter and got what seems to be a rather low measurement - it wasn't like I was using my Harbor freight dollar special one (actually, that one IIRC was a freebie).

  • Member since
    July 2006
  • From: North Dakota
  • 9,592 posts
Posted by BroadwayLion on Wednesday, March 11, 2015 9:21 AM

Mark R.

 

 

 
BroadwayLion

[snip] ....The LONG lead goes to the NEGATIVE side of the circuit, (I use GROUND for this), the shorter lead goes to the + dc voltage.

Watch out for LIONS.

ROAR

 

 

 

The long lead is positive, not negative ....

Mark.

 

 

 

Correct. LIONS are dyslexic and ALWAYS mix up any binary problem.

The Negative pole has the BIG flag (inside the LED) and the short leg outside)

The Positive pole has the LITTLE flag and the long leg.

LION always looks at the flags rather than the legs. BIG = Negative. I think I have that written on the wall in the train room, but not in the computer room.

ROAR

The Route of the Broadway Lion The Largest Subway Layout in North Dakota.

Here there be cats.                                LIONS with CAMERAS

  • Member since
    December 2001
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Posted by chutton01 on Wednesday, March 11, 2015 11:07 AM

BroadwayLion
The Negative pole has the BIG flag (inside the LED) and the short leg outside)

The Positive pole has the LITTLE flag and the long leg.

LION always looks at the flags rather than the legs. BIG = Negative. I think I have that written on the wall in the train room, but not in the computer room.


So far it does seem that for Christmas LEDs, the Cathode (Negative for LEDs) is indeed the large "flag" or "triangle" - this image may help.
What I'm wondering is how "universal" is this across discrete non-SMD LEDs in general? Reason being I clip the legs to be the same short length (so that identifying feature is gone) for size reasons, and I don't recall if the LEDs I scavanged even had that little flat side on the base.

  • Member since
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  • From: Reading, PA
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Posted by rrinker on Wednesday, March 11, 2015 4:18 PM

One lead longer is common but by no means universal. ANother common indication is a flat in the case. The problem of course with lead length is what if you are reusing an LED that you previous  wired and clipped all the wires nice and neat? If you can see through the LED by holding it up to the light, this is the most foolproof method, I have yet to see an LED manufactured 'upside down' internally, probbaly because the small leg doesn;t have enough mass to heat sink the actual diode, plus trying to make a wire bonder that could do that would be an interesting task.

 If you measured across the 10 ohm resistor, all you got was the voltage dropped by the 10 ohm resistor, not the LED. And with a pure DC source like a battery, where are you getting a Vr value from? There is 0 volts across the LED backwards if it's running off a battery.

 

                    --Randy


Modeling the Reading Railroad in the 1950's

 

Visit my web site at www.readingeastpenn.com for construction updates, DCC Info, and more.

  • Member since
    December 2001
  • 3,139 posts
Posted by chutton01 on Wednesday, March 11, 2015 5:15 PM

rrinker
One lead longer is common but by no means universal. ANother common indication is a flat in the case. The problem of course with lead length is what if you are reusing an LED that you previous  wired and clipped all the wires nice and neat? If you can see through the LED by holding it up to the light, this is the most foolproof method

I absolutely agree the "longer leg" method is not foolproof, and I was just warning the OP about that. I think the flat spot convention on the LED base is common, but I am not sure if it for all intents and purposes universal.

I have yet to see an LED manufactured 'upside down' internally, probbaly because the small leg doesn;t have enough mass to heat sink the actual diode, plus trying to make a wire bonder that could do that would be an interesting task.


If this refers to whether my question of manufacturers making the LED internal structure different such that the larger "flag" is not the Cathode (must be the Anode then) for whatever reason, then that was kind of my question - how universal is that.

If you measured across the 10 ohm resistor, all you got was the voltage dropped by the 10 ohm resistor, not the LED.

I did, and that's exactly what I wanted as the 10Ω resistor was in series with the LED and the 1KΩ resistor (and yes, I could have measured across the 1K if my test setup was different), so the current thru that resistor was the same as the current thru the LED - just what I was looking for.  I also ramped it up to 8 LEDs in parallel, and got about the same value.

And with a pure DC source like a battery, where are you getting a Vr value from? There is 0 volts across the LED backwards if it's running off a battery.
Correct, and since I plan to use DC power for these lights, I am not certain why I would need to worry about this theoretical "back voltage" you speak of.
Are you conflating NPN/PNP transistor operation in amplification/oscillating circuits with this fairly simple DC diode circuit? Back emf?

 

 

 

  • Member since
    February 2002
  • From: Reading, PA
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Posted by rrinker on Wednesday, March 11, 2015 5:52 PM

 No, when someone talks about a diode and Vr without posting a diagram of the circuit under test, I assume reverse voltage of the diode, not voltage across a resistor. Big Smile  Hey, I was up til 1:30am on a conference call and I'm working on about 3 hours of sleep.

 I probably would have just measured the drop across the 1K, and also measured the actual resistence of the 1K especially if it was a standard 10% one.

I pretty much dount anyone would make an LED with the flags reversed. Mainly for the heat, like I said. We tend to think of LEDs as not getting hot, but at the junction they can be quite warm. But it's such a miniscule spot of heat, it's easily carried away by the substrate and large metal lead.

 What I haven't seen is a 2 lead bicolor LED, all the ones I've ever had were opaque so you couldn;t see the leads once they get inside the case.Is it two large flags, each with a diode, and a whisker from each flag to the opposite diode junction? I'd suspect this is more likely than there being the usual large flag at the bottom with one diode, and the other one upside-down on the small flag

 Another reason the actual dide junction wouldn;t be inside the case upside down - the light would all try to get out the lead side, not the top. The light comes from the diode junction, and you'd want that to point up and out, not down towards whatever board the LED was installed in.

                     --Randy


Modeling the Reading Railroad in the 1950's

 

Visit my web site at www.readingeastpenn.com for construction updates, DCC Info, and more.

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