JRL140Using Atlas code 83 track (some flex, some sectional), NCE PowerCab, 18g wire for BUS, 20g wire for Feeders. Guy at hooby shop recommended I use a PBD-1 to run my BUS lines
I'm not sure where the recommendation to use the PBD-1 comes from. The NCE PowerCab manual suggests that for bus runs up to 25 feet #18 wire should be adequate. If you ran your bus wires around the periphery of the 4 X 8, the maximum distance would be 24 feet. So you should be okay. If it is possible that you might add an extension, you might want to consider #16 wire to be conservative. But when you run the bus wires, you can actually tap off these lines with your feeders to the track. (I tap off the feeders to a terminal strip, and from there to the track. But that's another subject.)
To use that PBD-1 thing, you are going to connect from the PowerCab to the PBD-1. Then from the PBD you'll run bus wires to the general location where you want a feeder, and then connect to a smaller wire to the track. If you can visualize this you'll see that you end up with a bunch of somewhat parallel bus pairs overlapping each other. This seems to be uneconomical and also result in unnecessary wiiring clutter.
KyleOne of the lessons in the videos is to never relay on track joiners even when soldered to carry electrical current.
Kyle,
While that's good advice, it's also one of those rules waiting to be broken. There's little sense in attaching a set of feeders to a 6" long section between a couple of turnouts. Solder it to one one turnout and gap it at the other as needed. Soldered rail is about as good a conductor as you can get. True, if flexed enough to break, well, it's broken, but so would be a feeder.
I'm not saying to not make that your own standard. For me, it's more of an ideal goal. No you don't want a dozen pieces of track and trackwork all soldered to gether so it can be fed from one point. On the other hand, careful breaking of the rule saves time, materials and complication. Generally, what I try to do is to have a feeder every three feet or the length of a stick of flex track. If I had some sectional track, I wouldn't feed every 9" piece, I'd solder it in groups or four or so and feed that, for instance.
One place where you don't want to break the rule, though, is with hidden or hard to reach track. That's when strictly adhering to the rule is worth the extra trouble.
Mike Lehman
Urbana, IL
One of the lessons in the videos is to never relay on track joiners even when soldered to carry electrical current. For reliable track, attach feeder wires to every track section. Don't take shortcuts when it comes to building things, it will always come back to get you. Good quality work is always required to get a good quality product.
thanks for the feedback, I think I fixed the problem with the pictures, a settings issue, not so familiar with that website. I don't have any gaps or insulated sections, all the track has rail joiners on them, either soldered or just connected without solder (for expansion purposes?)
**have two pictures on link that show layout plan and my idea for wiring, but again not exactly sure where to place the feeders on the layout for best operation.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/113749345@N07/
i will check out that 4x8 virginian track plan and look at some of the videos MRR
Nothing at link yet, will check back.
What is the PBD-1? I'm not familiar with that. [OK, that Q is answered]
In any case, you can simply run 18 gauge from the PowerCab output to serve as a bus. There's no need for anything extra really, especially on a 4x8.
20 gauge for longer feeders is OK, but you can probably get by with the more common 22 gauge.
Yes, feeders should go to every section of track. However, so long as track is soldered together, there's no need for extra feeders beyond one pair to that particiular section on a 4x8 (but longer sections of track may need more than one set.) The point is to not rely solely on railjoiners, but to instead solder them so they make a good, reliable connection and feed it with soldered-on wire feeders.
Not to shake you up, but you didn't mention gaps. They're oftentimes more confusing that feeders. The main thing is that you need gaps wherever it's possible to put two different polarities on the same rail. One example would be when the turnouts at either end of a siding are set differently, as opposing currents would be sent down the same rail. Another example is a return loop. Hope this helps. Will look for your graphics later.
This is the PDB-1 from Miniatronics, basically a pair of terminal strips. There's also a PDB-2 which has 24 per side.
--Randy
Modeling the Reading Railroad in the 1950's
Visit my web site at www.readingeastpenn.com for construction updates, DCC Info, and more.
When I tried to look at your link I got a message that says chazzy142 does not have anything available for me. And what is a PBD-1? Some sort of terminal strip?
It is highly advised that you attach feeders to every section of track, and every turnout. If you look at the Virginan project layout (a 4x8), they have a plan showing the feeders. Under the video section on the MRR website, there are several videos showing different ways/places to attach the feeders to the rails.
Hi guys! I'm a newbie to the model railroading scene, I have constructed a basic 4x8 layout for my son and I am in the process of trying to make it operational, just not sure how all the wiring works, I have read alot and looked at videos online, but everyone does it differently, or has their method, I end up getting confused.
If you could look at the link, it has some pictures, two inparticular on the track plan and idea for wiring. Not sure how many feeders I need, and how to run the bus wire.
Using Atlas code 83 track (some flex, some sectional), NCE PowerCab, 18g wire for BUS, 20g wire for Feeders.
Guy at hooby shop recommended I use a PBD-1 to run my BUS lines
any thoughts? locations for track feeders?
thanks
https://www.flickr.com/photos/113749345@N07/